King Edward III founded the Order of the Garter in 1348, yet the true origin of the institution remains shrouded in a web of political ambition and military necessity rather than the romantic legends that later emerged. While tradition often cites the year 1344 as the founding date, financial records from the King's wardrobe confirm that the distinctive blue garter habits were not issued until the autumn of 1348, suggesting the order was formalized later than its initial conception. The order was not merely a social club for the elite but a strategic response to Edward's claim to the French throne, designed to create a tight-knit band of supporters who would remain loyal regardless of the outcome of the Hundred Years War. The motto inscribed on the garter, hony soyt qui mal pence, translates to shame be to him who thinks evil of it, a phrase that served as a shield against the political intrigue and suspicion that plagued the court of the 14th century. This motto was likely chosen to bind the members together in a secret society of knights who could trust one another implicitly, a necessity for a group operating under the shadow of a contested crown. The order was inspired by the Castilian Order of the Band, established around 1330, but Edward III adapted the concept to fit the specific needs of English chivalry and his own dynastic ambitions. The initial statutes required that every member already be a knight, a status that would now be referred to as a knight bachelor, ensuring that the order was composed of proven warriors rather than mere courtiers. The list of founder knights includes names that would become legendary in English history, such as Edward the Black Prince and Henry of Grosmont, the Earl of Lancaster, who was the second appointee and is depicted in the Bruges Garter Book wearing a tabard displaying the royal arms of England over his blue mantle. The order's emblem, a garter circlet with the motto in gold script, was worn on ceremonial occasions and served as a constant reminder of the bond between the sovereign and his chosen companions. The order's dedication to Saint George, England's patron saint, further solidified its national identity and provided a religious justification for its existence. The order's structure was designed to be exclusive, with membership limited to the sovereign, the Prince of Wales, and no more than 24 living members, or Companions. This exclusivity ensured that the order remained a prestigious and powerful institution, capable of influencing the political landscape of England for centuries to come. The order's history is a testament to the power of symbolism and the enduring nature of chivalric ideals, even in the face of political turmoil and military conflict. The order's foundation was a bold move by Edward III, one that would shape the course of English history and establish a tradition that continues to this day. The order's influence extended beyond the court, reaching into the hearts and minds of the English people, who saw the order as a symbol of their nation's strength and unity. The order's legacy is one of loyalty, courage, and service, values that have been upheld by its members for over six centuries. The order's history is a story of kings and knights, of battles and betrayals, of triumphs and tragedies, all woven together in the fabric of the Order of the Garter. The order's story is one of the most fascinating in English history, a story that continues to unfold with each new appointment and each new chapter in the order's long and storied history. The order's history is a testament to the enduring power of tradition and the enduring nature of chivalric ideals, even in the face of political turmoil and military conflict. The order's history is a story of kings and knights, of battles and betrayals, of triumphs and tragedies, all woven together in the fabric of the Order of the Garter. The order's story is one of the most fascinating in English history, a story that continues to unfold with each new appointment and each new chapter in the order's long and storied history.
The most enduring legend surrounding the Order of the Garter involves the Countess of Salisbury, whose garter is said to have slipped from her leg while she was dancing at a court ball at Calais. When the surrounding courtiers sniggered, the King picked it up and returned it to her, exclaiming shame be to him who thinks evil of it, which phrase has become the Order's motto. However, the earliest written version of this story dates from the 1460s, and it seems to have been conceived as a retrospective explanation for the adoption of what was then seen as an item of female underclothing as the symbol of a band of knights. In fact, at the time of the Order's establishment in the mid-14th century, garters were predominantly an item of male attire, not female. Another legend claims that King Richard I was inspired in the 12th century by St George the Martyr while fighting in the Crusades to tie garters around the legs of his knights, who subsequently won the battle. King Edward supposedly recalled the event in the 14th century when he founded the Order. This story is recounted in a letter to The Annual Register in 1774, but it lacks historical evidence and serves more as a mythological foundation for the order's existence. The motto in fact refers to Edward's claim to the French throne, and the Order of the Garter was created to help pursue this claim. The use of the garter as an emblem may have derived from straps used to fasten armour, and may have been chosen because it held overtones of a tight-knit band or bond of knightly supporters of Edward's cause. There is a connection between the Order of the Garter and the Middle English poem Sir Gawain and the Green Knight, written in the late 14th century. The motto is inscribed, as hony soyt qui mal pence, at the end of the text in the sole surviving manuscript in the British Library, albeit in a later hand. In the poem, a girdle, very similar in its erotic undertones to the garter, plays a prominent role. A rough equivalent of the Order's motto has been identified in Gawain's exclamation corsed worth cowarddyse and couetyse boþe, meaning cursed be both cowardice and coveting. While the author of that poem remains disputed, there seems to be a connection between two of the top candidates and the Order of the Garter, John of Gaunt, 1st Duke of Lancaster, and Enguerrand de Coucy, seventh Sire de Coucy. De Coucy was married to King Edward III's daughter, Isabella, and was given admittance to the Order of the Garter on their wedding day. These legends, while not historically accurate, have become an integral part of the Order's identity, adding a layer of mystique and romance to its history. The stories of the Countess of Salisbury and King Richard I have been passed down through generations, becoming part of the cultural fabric of the Order. They serve as a reminder of the order's origins and the values it represents, even if the historical facts are less clear. The legends have also been used to explain the order's unique symbols and traditions, providing a narrative that has helped to preserve the order's legacy over the centuries. The stories of the Countess of Salisbury and King Richard I are just two of many legends that have been associated with the Order of the Garter, each adding a new dimension to the order's history and identity. The legends have been used to explain the order's unique symbols and traditions, providing a narrative that has helped to preserve the order's legacy over the centuries. The stories of the Countess of Salisbury and King Richard I are just two of many legends that have been associated with the Order of the Garter, each adding a new dimension to the order's history and identity.
Women of the Garter
Soon after the founding of the order, women were appointed Ladies of the Garter, but some historians argue that they were not appointed companions, as they were not knights. Queen Philippa was the first lady to be appointed in 1358, marking the beginning of a tradition that would continue for centuries. King Henry VII discontinued the practice in 1488, and his mother, Margaret Beaufort, was the last Lady of the Garter before Queen Alexandra. Except for female sovereigns, the next Lady of the Garter named was Queen Alexandra, by her husband King Edward VII. King George V also made his consort, Queen Mary, a Lady of the Garter, and King George VI subsequently did the same for his wife, Queen Elizabeth, and his daughter Princess Elizabeth, later Queen Elizabeth II. Throughout the 20th century, women continued to be associated with the Order, but save for foreign female monarchs, they were not made Companions. In 1987, by a statute of Queen Elizabeth II, the installation of Ladies Companion of the Garter became possible. Unlike previous queens consort, Queen Camilla was named a Royal Lady of the Garter by her mother-in-law, Queen Elizabeth II, when she was still the Duchess of Cornwall. In 2022, Valerie Amos, Baroness Amos, became the first Black Lady Companion of the Order since its foundation. Eliza Manningham-Buller, Baroness Manningham-Buller, became the first Lady Companion to be appointed chancellor of the Order, on the 18th of June 2024. The inclusion of women in the Order has been a gradual process, reflecting changing social attitudes and the evolving role of women in society. The first Lady of the Garter, Queen Philippa, was appointed in 1358, and her appointment marked the beginning of a tradition that would continue for centuries. The discontinuation of the practice by King Henry VII in 1488 was a significant moment in the order's history, as it marked the end of a long period of female participation. The resumption of the practice in the 20th century, with the appointment of Queen Alexandra and subsequent queens, marked a new era of female involvement in the Order. The appointment of Valerie Amos in 2022 was a historic moment, as she became the first Black Lady Companion of the Order since its foundation. The appointment of Eliza Manningham-Buller as chancellor of the Order in 2024 was another significant milestone, as she became the first Lady Companion to hold the position. The inclusion of women in the Order has been a gradual process, reflecting changing social attitudes and the evolving role of women in society. The stories of the women who have been appointed to the Order are a testament to the order's ability to adapt to changing times and to embrace new ideas and values. The stories of the women who have been appointed to the Order are a testament to the order's ability to adapt to changing times and to embrace new ideas and values. The stories of the women who have been appointed to the Order are a testament to the order's ability to adapt to changing times and to embrace new ideas and values.
The Degraded and the Restored
The sovereign may degrade members who have taken up arms against the Crown, a power that has been exercised throughout the order's history. From the late 15th century, there was a formal ceremony of degradation, in which Garter King of Arms, accompanied by the rest of the Heralds, processed to St George's Chapel. While the Garter King read aloud the Instrument of Degradation, a Herald climbed up a ladder and removed the former Knight's banner, crest, helm, and sword, throwing them down into the quire. Then the rest of the Heralds kicked them down the length of the chapel, out of the doors, and into the castle ditch. The last such formal degradation was that of James Butler, 2nd Duke of Ormonde, in 1716. During the First World War, two Royal Knights and six Stranger Knights, all monarchs or princes of enemy nations and including Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany, Emperor Franz Joseph I of Austria, and Prince Henry of Prussia, were struck off the roll of the order, their appointments being annulled in 1915. The banner of King Victor Emmanuel III was removed from the chapel after Italy entered World War II against the United Kingdom and its allies in 1940. The banner of Emperor Hirohito was removed from St George's Chapel when Japan entered World War II in 1941, but that banner and his knighthood were restored by Elizabeth II in 1971, when Hirohito made a state visit to the United Kingdom. The Emperor was particularly pleased by the restoration to the Garter. In 2025, Andrew Mountbatten-Windsor, formerly Prince Andrew, Duke of York, was struck off the roll and his banner was removed from the chapel amidst ongoing controversy surrounding his association with Jeffrey Epstein. His appointment was annulled on the 30th of October 2025. The degradation of members is a powerful symbol of the order's ability to hold its members accountable for their actions, even when those actions are against the Crown. The formal ceremony of degradation, with its dramatic removal of banners and crests, is a reminder of the order's strict codes of conduct and the consequences of violating those codes. The annulment of appointments during the World Wars was a necessary measure, but it also served as a reminder of the order's ability to adapt to changing circumstances and to make difficult decisions when necessary. The restoration of Emperor Hirohito's knighthood in 1971 was a significant moment in the order's history, as it demonstrated the order's ability to forgive and to move forward. The annulment of Prince Andrew's appointment in 2025 was another significant moment, as it demonstrated the order's ability to hold its members accountable for their actions, even when those actions are controversial. The degradation of members is a powerful symbol of the order's ability to hold its members accountable for their actions, even when those actions are against the Crown. The formal ceremony of degradation, with its dramatic removal of banners and crests, is a reminder of the order's strict codes of conduct and the consequences of violating those codes. The annulment of appointments during the World Wars was a necessary measure, but it also served as a reminder of the order's ability to adapt to changing circumstances and to make difficult decisions when necessary. The restoration of Emperor Hirohito's knighthood in 1971 was a significant moment in the order's history, as it demonstrated the order's ability to forgive and to move forward. The annulment of Prince Andrew's appointment in 2025 was another significant moment, as it demonstrated the order's ability to hold its members accountable for their actions, even when those actions are controversial.
The Officers and the Chapel
The Order has six officers: the Prelate, the Chancellor, the Register, the Garter Principal King of Arms, the Usher, and the Secretary. The offices of Prelate, Register, and Usher were created on the order's establishment; those of Garter Principal King of Arms and Chancellor, in the 15th century; and that of Secretary, in the 20th century. William of Edington, Bishop of Winchester, was the first Prelate of the Order, and that office has since been held by his successors at Winchester, traditionally a senior bishopric of the Church of England. The office of Chancellor is now held by one of the companions of the order. For most of its existence, the Bishop of Salisbury has held the office, although laymen held it from 1553 to 1671. In 1837, after boundary changes made Windsor Castle fall in the diocese of Oxford, the Chancellorship was transferred to the Bishop of Oxford. A century later, the Bishop of Salisbury challenged this transfer, on the grounds that the Chancellorship had been attached to his office regardless of the diocese in which the chapel of the order lay; and that, in any event, St George's Chapel, as a royal peculiar, was not under diocesan jurisdiction. The office of Chancellor was removed from the Bishop of Oxford, and so it was withheld from his successor, Kenneth Kirk, and has since been held by one of the Knights and Ladies Companion. The office of Register has been held by the Dean of Windsor since 1558. The Garter Principal King of Arms is ex officio the senior officer of the College of Arms, the heraldic authority of England, and is usually appointed from among the other officers of arms at the College. As the title suggests, Garter Principal King of Arms has specific duties as the Order's officer of arms, attending to the companions' coats of arms and banners of arms, which are exhibited in the chapel. The Secretary, who acts as deputy to Garter in the ceremonial aspects of the Order, has since 1952 typically also been selected from the other officers of the College of Arms. The office of Usher is held by the Usher of the Black Rod, who is also the Serjeant-at-Arms of the House of Lords. St George's Chapel in Windsor is the mother church of the Order of the Garter and the location of special services in relation to the Order. During their lifetime, all members of the Order of the Garter are entitled to display their heraldic crests and banners in St George's Chapel. While the Garter stall plates stay in the chapel permanently, the crests and banners of deceased knights are, following presentation at the High Altar, removed from the chapel. Sometimes they are then given to institutions that were connected with the late knight, or kept privately depending on family wishes. Originally after a knight's death, the crests became the property of Garter King of Arms, and these crests have been the subject of occasional exhibitions in the Earl Marshal's Court at the College of Arms. Garter stall plates are small enamelled and engraved brass plates located in St George's Chapel as memorials to Knights of the Garter. The officers of the Order play a crucial role in the order's functioning, ensuring that its traditions and ceremonies are carried out with the utmost care and precision. The office of the Prelate, held by the Bishop of Winchester, is a senior position within the Church of England, and the office of the Chancellor, held by one of the companions of the order, is a position of great importance. The office of the Register, held by the Dean of Windsor, is responsible for maintaining the order's records, and the office of the Garter Principal King of Arms is responsible for the order's heraldry. The office of the Secretary, held by a member of the College of Arms, is responsible for the order's administrative functions, and the office of the Usher, held by the Usher of the Black Rod, is responsible for the order's ceremonial duties. The officers of the Order play a crucial role in the order's functioning, ensuring that its traditions and ceremonies are carried out with the utmost care and precision. The office of the Prelate, held by the Bishop of Winchester, is a senior position within the Church of England, and the office of the Chancellor, held by one of the companions of the order, is a position of great importance. The office of the Register, held by the Dean of Windsor, is responsible for maintaining the order's records, and the office of the Garter Principal King of Arms is responsible for the order's heraldry. The office of the Secretary, held by a member of the College of Arms, is responsible for the order's administrative functions, and the office of the Usher, held by the Usher of the Black Rod, is responsible for the order's ceremonial duties.
Robes and Insignia
For the Order's ceremonial occasions, such as the annual Garter Day, the members wear elaborate vestments and accoutrements, which include the mantle, the hat, the collar, and the Great George. The mantle is a vestment or robe worn by members since the 15th century. Once made of wool, by the 16th century it was made of velvet. The mantle was originally purple, but varied during the 17th and 18th centuries between celestial blue, pale blue, royal blue, dark blue, violet, and ultramarine. Mantles are now dark blue and lined with white taffeta. The mantles of the Sovereign, the Prince of Wales, and Royal Knights and Ladies end in trains. The heraldic shield of St George's Cross encircled by the Garter is sewn onto the left shoulder of the mantle, but the Sovereign's mantle instead has the star of the Order. Attached to the mantle over the right shoulder are a dark red velvet hood and surcoat, which have lost all function over time and appear to the modern observer simply as a splash of colour. The hat is a Tudor bonnet of black velvet with a plume of white ostrich and black heron feathers. The collar is worn around the neck, over the mantle and is secured with white ribbons tied in bows on the shoulders. Like the mantle, it was introduced in the 15th and 16th centuries. Made of pure gold, it weighs 1.5 kilograms. The collar is composed of gold heraldic knots alternating with enamelled medallions, each showing a rose encircled by the Garter. During the reign of Henry VII, commencing at the termination of the Wars of the Roses, each garter surrounded two roses, one red for the House of Lancaster and one white for the House of York, but he changed the design to encircle the Tudor rose alone, a combination of both forms. Today one of the most visible representations of the collar forms part of the monarch's heraldic achievement on the gates of Buckingham Palace. The Great George, which is worn suspended from the collar, is a colourfully enamelled three-dimensional figure of St George the Martyr on horseback slaying a dragon. The Garter is worn on ceremonial occasions around the left calf by knights and around the left arm by ladies, and is depicted on several insignia. The Garter is a buckled dark-blue velvet strap, and bears the motto in gold letters. The garters of Stranger Knights and Ladies were once set with several jewels. Two styles have been used: one is a working garter where the end slips through the buckle, passed behind, and then is tucked down through the formed loop, as it is shown in the arms of the order, and the other style is a pre-made one that has the buckled and tucked end pre-fashioned and is fastened with a clip attachment. Up until the middle part of the 20th century, it was customary to wear Tudor style under-dress, consisting of white silk embroidered doublet, breeches, full hose, white doeskin pumps with satin bows and a sword belt with sword, under the robes. Nowadays, morning dress or a lounge suit is worn, except for coronations when Tudor under-dress is worn by the canopy-bearers. The robes and insignia of the Order of the Garter are a testament to the order's rich history and its enduring traditions. The mantle, with its dark blue velvet and white taffeta lining, is a symbol of the order's prestige and its connection to the past. The collar, with its gold heraldic knots and enamelled medallions, is a symbol of the order's wealth and its connection to the monarchy. The Great George, with its three-dimensional figure of St George the Martyr on horseback slaying a dragon, is a symbol of the order's dedication to the patron saint of England. The Garter, with its dark-blue velvet strap and gold motto, is a symbol of the order's unity and its connection to the past. The robes and insignia of the Order of the Garter are a testament to the order's rich history and its enduring traditions. The mantle, with its dark blue velvet and white taffeta lining, is a symbol of the order's prestige and its connection to the past. The collar, with its gold heraldic knots and enamelled medallions, is a symbol of the order's wealth and its connection to the monarchy. The Great George, with its three-dimensional figure of St George the Martyr on horseback slaying a dragon, is a symbol of the order's dedication to the patron saint of England. The Garter, with its dark-blue velvet strap and gold motto, is a symbol of the order's unity and its connection to the past.
Investiture and Privileges
Each June, on Garter Day, the members of the Order, wearing their habits and garter insignia, meet at Windsor Castle. When any new Knights and/or Ladies of the Garter are due for installation, an investiture ceremony is held in the Throne Room of Windsor Castle on the morning of Garter Day. This ceremony is attended by all available Knights and Ladies Companion of the Order, wearing the ceremonial habits and garter insignia, and also by their spouses. The wording of the oath sworn by the new knights at this ceremony and of the Admonitions addressed to them in turn by the prelate and chancellor of the order when the several items of insignia are placed upon them are extremely similar to the traditions of the past. At the investiture ceremony, two senior knights or ladies of the order assist the Sovereign by placing the garter around the left leg of the new knight, or left arm of the new lady, and in the fastening of the riband and Lesser George about the body of the new knight or lady, and in the adjustment of the mantle and the collar. After the investiture ceremony at Windsor is concluded, a state luncheon is held in the Banqueting Room. This is attended by the royal family, by all the Companions of the Order and their spouses, and by the Officers of the Order. After the banquet all the knights and ladies of the order, together with the prelate, chancellor and other officers of the order, in their mantles and ceremonial robes, led by the Military Knights of Windsor, move in procession, watched by a great crowd of spectators, through the castle, down the hill, which is lined with soldiers, to Saint George's Chapel for a worship service, before which the formal installation of the new knights takes place. While knights continued to be invested with their ensigns, the formal installation of knights at St George's Chapel ceased in 1805. Installation, along with the annual Garter service, returned in 1948, on the occasion of the order's 600th anniversary. Members are assigned positions in the order of precedence, coming before all others of knightly rank, and above baronets. The wives, sons, daughters and daughters-in-law of Knights Companion are also assigned precedence. Relatives of Ladies Companion are not, however, assigned any special positions. Generally, individuals can derive precedence from their fathers or husbands, but not from their wives. The Chancellor is also assigned precedence, but since 1837 the office has been held by a diocesan bishop of the Church of England or a peer, which have a higher precedence than that bestowed by the Chancellorship. Knights Companion prefix Sir and Ladies Companion prefix Lady to their forenames. Wives of Knights Companion may prefix Lady to their surnames, but no corresponding privilege exists for husbands of Ladies Companion. Such forms are not used by royalty, peers, peeresses, or Anglican clergymen, who instead use only the post-nominal letters. Knights and Ladies Companion use the post-nominal letters KG and LG respectively. When an individual is entitled to use multiple post-nominal letters, those of the Order of the Garter appear before all others, except Bt or Bart, VC, and GC. In their heraldic achievements, members of the Order of the Garter may encircle their escutcheon with the Garter. Knights and Ladies Companion are also entitled to receive heraldic supporters, a privilege granted to few other private individuals. While some families claim supporters by ancient use, and others have been granted them as a special reward, only members of the Royal Family, peers, Knights and Ladies Companion of the Garter, Knights and Ladies of the Thistle, and Knights and Dames Grand Cross of the junior orders of chivalry are automatically entitled to them. The investiture ceremony and the privileges of the Order of the Garter are a testament to the order's rich history and its enduring traditions. The ceremony, with its elaborate robes and garter insignia, is a symbol of the order's prestige and its connection to the past. The privileges, with their precedence and heraldic achievements, are a symbol of the order's wealth and its connection to the monarchy. The investiture ceremony and the privileges of the Order of the Garter are a testament to the order's rich history and its enduring traditions. The ceremony, with its elaborate robes and garter insignia, is a symbol of the order's prestige and its connection to the past. The privileges, with their precedence and heraldic achievements, are a symbol of the order's wealth and its connection to the monarchy.
Military Knights and History
At the founding of the Order of the Garter, 26 bedesmen called poor knights were appointed and attached to the Order and its chapel. This number was not always maintained, and by the 17th century, there were only thirteen such knights. King Charles II increased the number to 18 after his coronation in 1660, in large part because of funds allocated from Sir Francis Crane's will. After the knights objected to being termed poor, King William IV redesignated them in the 19th century as the Military Knights of Windsor. The poor knights were impoverished retired military officers, required to pray daily for the Knights Companion. In return, they received a salary and lodging in Windsor Castle. The knights are no longer necessarily poor, but are still retired military officers. They participate in the Order's processions, escorting the members, and in the chapel services. However, they are not considered members of the Order. The poor knights originally wore red mantles, each of which bore St George's Cross, but did not depict the Garter. Queen Elizabeth I replaced the mantles in the 16th and 17th centuries with blue and purple gowns, but the red mantles returned in the 17th century under King Charles I. When the knights were renamed, the mantles were abandoned. The military knights now wear the old military uniform of an army officer on the unattached list: black trousers with red stripe, a red double-breasted swallow-tailed coat, gold epaulets and brushes, a cocked hat with a plume, and a sword on a white baldric. The Military Knights of Windsor play a crucial role in the order's functioning, ensuring that its traditions and ceremonies are carried out with the utmost care and precision. The knights, with their red double-breasted swallow-tailed coats and gold epaulets, are a symbol of the order's military heritage and its connection to the past. The knights, with their black trousers with red stripe and cocked hat with a plume, are a symbol of the order's prestige and its connection to the monarchy. The Military Knights of Windsor play a crucial role in the order's functioning, ensuring that its traditions and ceremonies are carried out with the utmost care and precision. The knights, with their red double-breasted swallow-tailed coats and gold epaulets, are a symbol of the order's military heritage and its connection to the past. The knights, with their black trousers with red stripe and cocked hat with a plume, are a symbol of the order's prestige and its connection to the monarchy.