Order of the Garter

• 1. Founding And Origins

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  King Edward III founded the Order of the Garter around 1348, though historical records suggest a more complex timeline. The Complete Peerage states the order was first instituted on the 23rd of April 1344, listing founding members knighted that year. Sir Sanchet D'Abrichecourt appears in notices from October 1345, and other dates between 1344 and 1351 have been proposed by historians. King Edward's wardrobe account shows Garter habits were first issued in the autumn of 1348. Original statutes required each member to already be a knight bachelor, yet some initial members listed were only knighted in 1348. The foundation likely drew inspiration from the Castilian Order of the Band, established about 1330. Edward III claimed the French throne at this time, and the order served as a vehicle for his political ambitions. Twenty-five Founder Knights joined the monarch in the original establishment. Henry of Grosmont, Earl of Lancaster, became the second appointee, dying in 1361.

• 2. Legendary Narratives

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  The most popular legend involves the Countess of Salisbury, whose garter slipped while dancing at a court ball in Calais. Courtiers sniggered when the item fell, prompting the king to pick it up and return it with the phrase shamed be he who thinks evil of it. This story became the order's motto, though the earliest written version dates from the 1460s. Historians believe the tale was conceived as a retrospective explanation for adopting female underclothing as a symbol for knights. At mid-14th century, garters were predominantly male attire. Another legend claims King Richard I tied garters around knights' legs during the Crusades in the 12th century. A letter to The Annual Register in 1774 recounts how Edward supposedly recalled this event when founding the order. The motto refers to Edward's claim to the French throne, suggesting the garter emblem derived from armor straps. These straps held overtones of a tight-knit band or bond of knightly supporters. Connection exists between the Order of the Garter and the Middle English poem Sir Gawain and the Green Knight. Cotton Nero A.x 128v contains the sole surviving manuscript in the British Library, inscribed with hony soyt qui mal pence at its end.

• 3. Membership Composition

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  Membership includes the monarch, Prince of Wales, and no more than 24 living Companions. Queen Philippa became the first Lady of the Garter in 1358, but historians argue these women were not appointed companions since they were not knights. King Henry VII discontinued the practice in 1488; his mother Margaret Beaufort was the last before Queen Alexandra. In 1987, a statute by Queen Elizabeth II made installation of Ladies Companion possible. Valerie Amos, Baroness Amos, became the first Black Lady Companion in 2022. Eliza Manningham-Buller, Baroness Manningham-Buller, became chancellor on the 18th of June 2024. Supernumerary members include Royal Knights and Ladies introduced in 1786 by King George III. Emperor Alexander I of Russia joined as Stranger Knight in 1813. A 1954 statute now authorizes regular admission without special enactments. The sovereign alone decides appointments, though nominations ceased after 1860. From the 18th century, choices relied on government advice until 1946 when Clement Attlee and Winston Churchill agreed membership returned to personal royal gift. Appointments typically announce on Saint George's Day, the 23rd of April.

• 4. Officers And Administration

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  Six officers serve the Order: Prelate, Chancellor, Register, Garter Principal King of Arms, Usher, and Secretary. William of Edington, Bishop of Winchester, served as first Prelate upon establishment. The Register office has been held by Dean of Windsor since 1558. Garter Principal King of Arms serves ex officio as senior officer of College of Arms. David White holds this position from 2021. Lieutenant Colonel Stephen Segrave acts as Secretary since 2024. Philip Mounstephen became Prelate in 2023. Eliza Manningham-Buller took the Chancellor role in 2024. Lieutenant General Ed Davis serves as Gentleman Usher of Black Rod from 2025. Military Knights of Windsor number eighteen following King Charles II's increase in 1660. These knights were originally impoverished retired military officers required to pray daily for Companions. They receive salary and lodging within Windsor Castle but remain non-members. Their uniform features black trousers with red stripe, red double-breasted coat, gold epaulets, cocked hat with plume, and sword on white baldric. The Poor Knights wore red mantles bearing St George's Cross until Queen Elizabeth I replaced them with blue gowns.

• 5. Ceremonial Robes

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  Mantles have been worn since the 15th century, transitioning from wool to velvet by the 16th century. Originally purple, colors varied between celestial blue, pale blue, royal blue, dark blue, violet, and ultramarine during 17th and 18th centuries. Modern mantles are dark blue lined with white taffeta. Heraldic shield of St George's Cross encircled by Garter appears on left shoulder. Sovereign's mantle displays star instead. Dark red velvet hood and surcoat attach over right shoulder, now serving purely decorative function. Tudor bonnet of black velvet features white ostrich and black heron feathers. Collar weighs approximately one pound, made of pure gold. It consists of gold heraldic knots alternating with enamelled medallions showing rose encircled by Garter. Henry VII changed design to encircle Tudor rose alone after Wars of Roses. Great George figure depicts St George slaying dragon in three-dimensional enamel or jewels. Garter strap worn around left calf by knights and left arm by ladies bears motto in gold letters. Two styles exist: working garter where end slips through buckle, and pre-made version fastened with clip attachment.

• 6. Windsor Chapel Rituals

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  St George's Chapel serves as mother church for Order of Garter within Windsor Castle. All members display heraldic crests and banners during lifetime. Garter stall plates remain permanently in chapel as memorials. Crests and banners of deceased knights removed following presentation at High Altar. Sometimes given to connected institutions or kept privately depending on family wishes. Originally crests became property of Garter King of Arms. Each June, members meet at Windsor Castle for annual Garter Day service. Investiture ceremony occurs in Throne Room morning of Garter Day. New Knights and Ladies receive insignia from two senior companions assisting the Sovereign. State luncheon follows in Banqueting Room attended by royal family and all Companions. Procession moves through castle down hill lined with soldiers to Saint George's Chapel. Formal installation returned in 1948 on order's 600th anniversary after ceasing in 1805. Banners of Stranger Knights removed when nations entered World War II against United Kingdom. Emperor Hirohito's banner restored in 1971 during state visit. Andrew Mountbatten-Windsor struck off roll in October 2025 amid controversy.