Michelin Guide
The Michelin Guide began in 1900 as a giveaway nobody had much reason to keep. French tire makers Édouard and André Michelin handed it out free to drivers, back when France had fewer than three thousand cars on its roads. A story has followed the guide ever since. André Michelin is said to have walked into a tire shop one day and found stacks of his own book propping up a wobbly workbench. He is said to have decided that 'man only truly respects what he pays for.' So he changed the guide from something people were handed to something they bought. That decision helped turn a tire company's marketing pamphlet into a global institution. Today its inspectors visit in secret and are barred from speaking to journalists. Its annual verdicts have even been linked, by rumor, to a chef's death. How does a listing that once marked petrol stations and mechanics end up deciding a restaurant's fate? How does it persuade a government to pay millions of dollars just for a mention? And why would a chef ever want to give a star back?
Nearly 35,000 copies of the first Guide Michelin went out for free in 1900. Packed inside were maps, instructions for repairing or replacing a tire, listings of car mechanics, hotels, and petrol stations across France. The brothers had a simple theory: more driving meant more worn tires, and more worn tires meant more tire sales.
By 1904 the brothers had published a companion guide for Belgium. Algeria and Tunisia followed in 1907, then a joint guide to the Alps and the Rhine, covering northern Italy, Switzerland, Bavaria, and the Netherlands, in 1908. Germany, Spain, and Portugal got their own edition in 1910, the British Isles in 1911, and a guide to 'The Countries of the Sun,' covering northern Africa, southern Italy, and Corsica, also in 1911. An English-language version of the France guide had already appeared in 1909.
World War I halted publication entirely. When it resumed, Michelin still gave revised editions away for free, right up until 1920. Then, in 1922, the guide began charging readers directly, at a price of about seven and a half francs. New editorial choices came with the new price. Restaurants were now sorted into specific categories, hotel listings were added starting with Paris, and advertisements disappeared from the pages. As the restaurant section grew more popular, Michelin recruited a team of anonymous inspectors to visit and review the restaurants themselves.
Borrowing an idea from the Murray's and Baedeker travel guides, Michelin began awarding stars to restaurants in 1926, at first just a single star. In 1931 that grew into a hierarchy of zero, one, two, and three stars, and the cover itself changed color that same year, from blue to red, a shade it has kept ever since. By 1936 Michelin had spelled out what each tier meant. One star marked 'a very good restaurant in its category.' Two stars meant cooking so excellent it was 'worth a detour.' Three meant cuisine so exceptional it was 'worth a special journey.'
By the time a second world war forced Michelin to go dark again, that red cover was only a decade old.
In 1944, at the request of the Allied Forces, Michelin specially reprinted its 1939 guide to France for military use. Its maps were judged the best and most up to date available anywhere. Publication of the regular annual guide resumed on the 16th of May 1945, just a week after VE Day.
Wartime shortages lingered into the peace, and Michelin responded by capping its ratings at two stars. By 1950 the French edition listed only 38 establishments that met even that reduced standard. Michelin published its first guide to Italy in 1956, and that debut edition awarded no stars at all. Britain got its first Michelin guide since 1931 in 1974, and this time 25 stars were handed out.
In 2005, Michelin released its first American guide, rating 500 restaurants across New York City's five boroughs and 50 hotels in Manhattan. A Tokyo guide followed in 2007, the same year Michelin launched a companion magazine called Étoile. Hong Kong and Macau got their own volume in 2008. By 2013 the guide existed in 14 editions covering 23 countries.
That same expansion pushed one long tradition aside. In 2008, German restaurateur Juliane Caspar became the first woman, and the first non-French national, to serve as editor-in-chief of the French edition. She had previously overseen Michelin's guides to Germany, Switzerland, and Austria. The German newspaper Die Welt marked the appointment with a pointed line: 'In view of the fact German cuisine is regarded as a lethal weapon in most parts of France, this decision is like Mercedes announcing that its new director of product development is a Martian.'
Every one of those international editions, so far, had been Michelin's own idea and Michelin's own expense. That arrangement was about to change.
In 2016, the Korea Tourism Organization paid Michelin 3.2 billion won, more than a million US dollars, to bring South Korea into that year's edition. Government officials were unhappy with the result. They pointed to typos, translation errors, and mistakes describing seating options.
Thailand followed a similar path in 2017. The Tourism Authority of Thailand agreed to pay 144 million baht, about 4.4 million US dollars, over five years for the country's inclusion. In 2022, the guide expanded to Canada, adding Toronto and Vancouver in exchange for undisclosed payments from each city's local chapter of Destination Canada.
Florida announced its first Michelin selections on the 9th of June 2022. Tourism boards in Miami, Orlando, and Tampa had agreed to pay the company up to 1.5 million US dollars combined. The state's debut list held a single two-star restaurant, 14 one-star restaurants, and 29 Bib Gourmand picks.
Late in 2022, Vietnam, Malaysia, Estonia, and the United Arab Emirates all joined the guide, again for undisclosed payments. In February 2023, Israel's Tourism Ministry announced a bid to bring Michelin coverage to the country for 1.5 million euros. Several Colorado destinations, Aspen, Beaver Creek Resort, Boulder, Denver, Snowmass Village, and Vail, each paid between 70,000 and 100,000 US dollars, plus a state contribution. Four other Colorado cities, Aurora, Colorado Springs, Fort Collins, and Grand Junction, chose not to participate. Atlanta joined in September 2023 for 1 million US dollars spread over three years.
By the early 2020s, Michelin had also begun asking some countries that once received free coverage to start paying for it to continue. Hungary, Slovenia, and the Czech Republic all agreed. In 2025, the guide announced an American South edition covering Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Tennessee, folding in the existing Atlanta guide. On the 12th of May 2025, Michelin announced it would add Boston and Philadelphia. Both would join a new Northeast Cities edition, alongside the already-rated Chicago, New York City, and Washington, D.C. The tourism group Meet Boston reportedly paid over a million dollars for three years of coverage, funded through hotel surcharges in Boston and Cambridge, Massachusetts. A Philippines edition, covering the Greater Manila Area and Cebu, is planned for 2026.
The same company charging cities and governments for a listing had, by then, stopped charging its readers at all. In 2021 Michelin ended most printed editions after 121 years and released a free app instead. By 2024, only France, Italy, Japan, and Spain still kept a print edition on shelves.
'Michelin is the only guide that counts,' said French chef Paul Bocuse, one of the pioneers of nouvelle cuisine in the 1960s. Behind that verdict sits an inspection process built almost entirely on secrecy. Michelin pays for every inspector's meals and expenses itself; the restaurant being judged never picks up the bill.
Inspectors are advised not to reveal their job to anyone, not even their own parents, since a proud parent might be tempted to boast about it. Many of Michelin's own top executives have never met one of their inspectors face to face. In all its years publishing the guide, Michelin has never let an inspector speak to a journalist. Each visit becomes a written report, and at annual 'stars meetings' held in the guide's national offices, those reports are distilled into a final verdict: three stars, two, one, or none.
Michelin's own website spells out, tier by tier, what a star is supposed to mean. One star goes to restaurants using top-quality ingredients, where dishes with distinct flavors are prepared to a consistently high standard. Two stars mark a chef whose personality and talent come through in refined, inspired cooking. Three stars, the guide's highest award, go to chefs at the peak of their profession, whose cooking is elevated to an art form and whose dishes are destined to become classics.
In France, the guide's annual publication triggers a media frenzy that has been compared to the run-up to the Academy Awards. Television and newspapers debate which restaurants stand to lose a star, keep one, or gain one. Michelin also hands out something short of a star, called a 'Rising Star,' signaling that a restaurant has the potential to earn one soon, or an additional one.
Stars are not the only symbol Michelin's inspectors carry into a dining room.
In 2020, Michelin introduced a green star, a separate emblem meant to recognize excellence in sustainable gastronomy. A restaurant that earns one gets space on the guide's website where its chef can describe their vision for the place. The green star can sit alongside a restaurant's regular Michelin stars, a Bib Gourmand listing, or a spot on the plain recommended list. By October 2025 the green star had disappeared as a searchable filter on Michelin's website, though the guide kept awarding it.
Since 1997, Michelin has flagged restaurants serving 'exceptionally good food at moderate prices' under a label now called Bib Gourmand. Qualifying menus must fall under a price ceiling set by local economic conditions; in Canada in 2022, that meant a two-course meal plus dessert or a glass of wine for under 60 Canadian dollars per person. The name comes from Bibendum, Michelin's own nickname for its tire-man mascot, a figure over a century old. A restaurant can gain or lose its Bib Gourmand at the same annual award ceremony where stars are decided. The Chicago restaurant and bakery Kasama received a Bib Gourmand, then earned a full star the following year, in 2022.
Michelin added a lower rung in 2016, called the Plate, for restaurants that simply serve good food. In 2022 it retired that name and renamed the tier 'Selected Restaurants.'
Michelin announced in October 2023 that hotels would start receiving a rating too, following the same model as restaurants. That new award, called Keys, launched in 2024 and rests on anonymous stays conducted by Michelin's own selection teams. Judges weigh five things: architecture and interior design, service quality and consistency, and the property's overall personality and character. They also weigh value for the price and the hotel's contribution to its neighborhood or setting. Michelin's guide now recommends more than 6,000 hotels worldwide.
The guide has also pushed past restaurants and hotels into street food. In 2014, Michelin added a separate listing for gastropubs in Ireland. Its 2016 Hong Kong and Macau edition introduced an overview of notable street-food stalls, and that same year the Singapore guide handed out the first Michelin stars ever given to street food, to Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle and to Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle.
Every restaurant in the guide gets a separate 'fork and spoon' rating, from one to five, judging comfort rather than cooking. One fork and spoon means comfortable; five means luxurious. A red fork and spoon adds that the place is also 'pleasant.' Coins mark restaurants offering a menu under a set price. The ceilings in the 2010 France and 2011 US and Japan editions were 19 euros, 25 dollars, and 5,000 yen. A black or red symbol flags an interesting or magnificent view. Grapes, a sake set, or a cocktail glass mark a notably good wine, sake, or cocktail list.
Michelin's Green Guides handle everything the Red Guides don't: the sights themselves. There is a Green Guide covering France as a whole and a more detailed one for each of the country's ten regions, plus separate Green Guides for many countries and cities beyond France, often published in several languages. Like the restaurant guides, they rank attractions on a three-tier scale, from 'interesting' up through 'worth a detour' to 'worth a trip.'
None of these symbols has drawn nearly as much argument as the star itself.
Pascal Rémy spent years crisscrossing France as one of Michelin's own inspectors before turning on the company. In 2004 he published a tell-all book, L'Inspecteur se met à table. Michelin fired him in December 2003, right after he told them he planned to publish. He sued for unfair dismissal and lost.
Rémy described an inspector's life as lonely and underpaid: weeks of solo driving, dinners eaten alone, and constant pressure to file detailed reports on strict deadlines. He argued that standards inside the guide had slipped badly. Michelin claimed its inspectors visited all 4,000 reviewed French restaurants every 18 months, and starred restaurants several times a year. Rémy said the real pace was closer to one visit a year, because France had only 11 inspectors when he was hired, not the '50 or more' Michelin had implied. By the time he was fired in December 2003, he said, that number had shrunk to five.
Rémy also accused Michelin of favoritism, claiming famous chefs such as Paul Bocuse and Alain Ducasse were treated as untouchable and spared the scrutiny applied to lesser-known cooks. Michelin denied the charge but declined to say how many inspectors it actually employed in France. Its response to the sacrosanct-chef accusation was blunt: 'There would be little sense in saying a restaurant was worth three stars if it weren't true, if for no other reason than that the customer would write and tell us.'
Non-French critics have raised a related complaint for decades: that the whole ranking system favors French cuisine and French dining norms. The British newspaper The Guardian put it sharply in 1997, writing that 'some people maintain the guide's principal purpose is as a tool of Gallic cultural imperialism.' When Michelin published its first New York City guide in 2005, New York Times writer Steven Kurutz noted that Danny Meyer's Union Square Cafe, a restaurant rated highly by the Times, Zagat, and other guides, received no star at all, though it did get praise for its ambiance; two other Meyer restaurants did receive stars. Kurutz argued the guide favored 'formality and presentation' over a 'casual approach to fine dining,' and said over half the restaurants awarded one or two stars 'could be considered French.'
The scale gap made the point starker. The 2007 Michelin Guide New York listed 526 restaurants, next to 2,014 in that year's Zagat New York. When The Four Seasons Restaurant received no stars in that edition, co-owner Julian Niccolini said Michelin 'should stay in France, and they should keep their guide there.'
A mirror-image complaint surfaced around Japan. In 2007 Tokyo's restaurants took home the most stars of any city, and by 2010 Kyoto and Osaka were racking up plenty as well. Some observers wondered whether the ratings were deserved, or whether Michelin was being generous to win favor with Japanese diners and help its tire business in the country. Others pointed out that Tokyo simply has far more restaurants to draw from, some 160,000, compared with about 40,000 in Paris. The Wall Street Journal reported in 2010 that some Japanese chefs were reluctant to accept a star at all, because the resulting publicity brought an unmanageable surge in bookings that made it hard to serve regular customers without lowering quality.
For every chef racing to win a star, at least one chef has tried hard to give one back.
Julio Biosca, chef at Casa Julio in Fontanars dels Alforins, Spain, won a star in 2009 for a style of perfumed cuisine that stopped feeling like his own. He came to feel the award had locked him into dishes he no longer wanted to make. In December 2013 he discontinued his tasting menu altogether, and Michelin finally removed the star in its 2015 guide.
Skye Gyngell, founder and chef of Petersham Nurseries Café in London, received a star in 2011. Customers began arriving expecting formal fine dining and complaining when they didn't get it. Gyngell tried to have the star removed and later retired from the restaurant altogether. She has since said she regretted her remarks and would have welcomed keeping the star.
In Belgium, chef Frederick Dhooge of 't Huis van Lede rejected both his 2014 Michelin star and his points in the rival Gault-Millau guide. 'We noticed that this is not always understood by a group of customers that expect a spectacle of stars and points kitchen,' he said. Dhooge complained that guests arrived expecting elaborate presentation rather than simple food, adding: 'I just want to make a really good shrimp croquette.'
Marco Pierre White became the first British chef to win three Michelin stars, then quit his restaurant and handed the stars back in 1999. He cited the pressure of defending them year after year and openly questioned the competence of the inspectors who had awarded them.
Losing a star can cost more than pride. It is widely believed that chef Bernard Loiseau died by suicide in 2003, after hearing rumors that his three-star restaurant, La Côte d'Or, was about to be demoted to two stars.
Even Michelin's own process isn't immune to plain error. In 2017, a café called Bouche à Oreille in Bourges was accidentally awarded a star. Michelin had confused it with a differently located restaurant of the same name in Boutervilliers, near Paris.
Chefs, owners, and officials interviewed by The New York Times have blamed the guide for pushing American fine dining toward a narrow sameness: costly ingredients, elaborate tableware, matching staff uniforms, long tasting menus, and meticulously arranged small plates. That style of cooking is labor-intensive, and the pressure shows up in line cooks' wages. Many high-status Michelin restaurants have also relied on staging, a form of unpaid internship, to fill their kitchens. At the three-star restaurant Noma, chef-owner René Redzepi bowed to public pressure in 2022 and began paying his interns for the first time.
Three months after Redzepi started paying his staff, he announced Noma could no longer stay open under that model, and that the restaurant would close at the end of 2024. Workers at other fine-dining restaurants have separately reported very long hours, trouble affording food, physical and sexual abuse, being refused permission to seek hospital treatment for injuries, and having personal property destroyed. Yet when The New York Times asked chefs directly, most said the surge in business and job applicants that follows a Michelin star still makes chasing one worth it.
Updated
Common questions
When was the Michelin Guide first published and what was its original purpose?
The Michelin Guide was first published in 1900 by brothers Édouard and André Michelin to encourage driving and increase tire wear. The initial free guide contained maps, tire repair instructions, and lists of hotels and petrol stations for French motorists.
When did the Michelin Guide start awarding stars and when did the cover change to red?
The guide started awarding stars in 1926 with an initial single-star system. The cover changed from blue to red in 1931 when the hierarchy of zero, one, two, and three stars was introduced.
Who is Pascal Rémy and what happened to his employment with Michelin?
Pascal Rémy is a veteran France-based Michelin inspector who wrote the book L'Inspecteur se met à table published in 2004. His employment was terminated in December 2003 when he informed Michelin of his plans to publish the book and his subsequent court case for unfair dismissal was unsuccessful.
When did the Michelin Guide expand to the United States and which cities were included?
The first American guide was published in 2005 covering 500 restaurants in New York City and 50 hotels in Manhattan. The guide plans to cover the American South including Alabama, Louisiana, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Tennessee in 2025.
How much did Boston pay for Michelin Guide coverage and when was the announcement made?
Tourism board Meet Boston reportedly paid over $1 million for three years of coverage sourced from hotel surcharges in Boston and neighboring Cambridge, Massachusetts. The guide announced plans to expand to Boston and Philadelphia on the 12th of May 2025.
When did the Michelin Guide end printed copies and transition to digital publication?
The Michelin Guide ended printed copies in 2021 in most markets after 121 years of operation. The company transitioned to digital publication and released a proprietary app to distribute the guide to a larger audience at no charge.
All sources
159 references cited across the entry
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- 29News'Pay or There'll be No Stars.' Czech Republic May Lose its Michelin RestaurantsJanuary 25, 2023
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- 31Michelin Guide expands into North Carolina with new announcementWRAL — 2 April 2025
- 33NewsMeet Boston has $30 million to boost tourism. Is buying Michelin stars really the best way to spend it?Shirley Leung — May 15, 2025
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- 106Here Are Chicago's Michelin Star and Bib Gourmand Winners for 20238 November 2023
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