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— CH. 1 · INTRODUCTION —

Tokyo

13 min listen · Ch. 1 of 7
7 sections
  • Tokyo sits at the head of Tokyo Bay, on the central coast of Honshu, yet by 1990 the estimated value of the land beneath the Imperial Palace alone surpassed that of the entire state of California. That single statistic captures something essential about this city: its scale of ambition has repeatedly outrun the imagination of those trying to describe it. How did a small fishing settlement at the mouth of the Sumida River become the seat of one of the world's largest economies? How did a place twice reduced to rubble rebuild itself not once but twice, each time emerging larger and more complex than before? And what does it mean that a metropolis of more than 33 million people stretches across six prefectures, contains the world's busiest train station, and still holds the record for the safest city on earth? Those are the threads this documentary follows.

  • Edo, the name Tokyo carried for centuries, translates roughly as "estuary," a reference to the original settlement where the Sumida River meets the bay. The site has been inhabited since the Paleolithic period, and during the Jomon era that followed, rising sea levels in Tokyo Bay lifted the coastline to what is now the edge of the Imperial Palace grounds. Shell middens such as the Omori Shell Mounds still mark where that ancient shoreline ran.

    The first example of Yayoi pottery was excavated in 1884 by Shozo Arisaka at the Yayoi 2-chome Site in Bunkyo, giving the entire Yayoi period its name. The temple of Senso-ji in Asakusa was founded in 645. Then in 1457, Ota Dokan built Edo Castle to defend the region from the Chiba clan. After Dokan was assassinated in 1486, the castle passed through several hands before Toyotomi Hideyoshi swept away the Later Hojo clan during the Siege of Odawara in 1590.

    What followed the siege changed everything. Tokugawa Ieyasu was granted the Kanto region and moved there from his ancestral land of Mikawa Province. When he was named shogun in 1603, Edo became the effective capital of the whole country, even while the Emperor remained in Kyoto as nominal ruler. The city entered a prolonged era of enforced peace, the Pax Tokugawa, and with no wars to consume its resources, Edo channeled its energy into rebuilding after fires and earthquakes. By the 18th century, its population had reached one million, placing it among the largest cities anywhere in the world.

    That long isolation ended abruptly in 1853, when American Commodore Matthew C. Perry forced the opening of the ports of Shimoda and Hakodate. The resulting surge in demand for foreign goods drove severe inflation, and rice establishments were smashed in widespread popular rebellions. Supporters of the Emperor used the disorder to consolidate power, and in 1867, the last Tokugawa shogun, Yoshinobu, was overthrown. Fighting continued until the final Battle of Ueno on the 4th of July, 1868.

  • On the 3rd of September, 1868, Edo was renamed Tokyo, meaning Eastern Capital, and Emperor Meiji formally moved the imperial seat from Kyoto. The former Edo Castle became the new Imperial Palace. Government ministries including the Ministry of Finance relocated to the city by 1871.

    The 1870s brought a cascade of institutions that would anchor the modern city. Ueno Park opened in 1873, the University of Tokyo was established in 1877, and the Tokyo Stock Exchange opened in 1878. The country's first railway line, connecting Shimbashi and Yokohama, also dates from this era. Business districts such as Marunouchi filled with modern brick buildings, and a new railway network carried the large labour force that kept the economy expanding. The City of Tokyo was officially established on the 1st of May, 1889, the same year the Imperial Diet, the national legislature, began operating there.

    Brick construction proved dangerously inadequate. On the 1st of September, 1923, the Great Kanto Earthquake struck with an estimated magnitude of 7.9, and the subsequent fires killed an estimated 105,000 people. The economic loss amounted to 37 percent of the country's total output. Yet the destruction also provided an opening: the high survival rate of concrete buildings accelerated the shift to modern earthquake-resistant construction. Within four years, on the 30th of December, 1927, the Tokyo Metro Ginza Line opened the first underground railway built outside Europe and the Americas.

    The 1930s brought a darker turn. The Great Depression, two attempted military coups in 1932 and 1936, and Japan's military aggression in China pushed the country toward the Second World War. Tokyo had to give up hosting the 1940 Summer Olympics in 1938. Rationing began in June 1940, and on the 7th of December, 1941, Japan attacked the American bases at Pearl Harbor.

  • The reorganization of 1943, merging Tokyo City with Tokyo Prefecture to form the Tokyo Metropolis, was a wartime measure designed to centralize control of resources and civil defence. The administrative change that created the modern governing structure of Tokyo was born from emergency, not civic planning.

    The Doolittle Raid on the 18th of April, 1942, was the first direct foreign attack on Tokyo. Physical damage was minimal, but it demonstrated that the Japanese mainland could be reached from the air. Large-scale bombing began in late 1944 after the United States seized the Mariana Islands, placing the new long-range B-29 bombers within striking distance.

    The deadliest night came on the 9th and the 10th of March, 1945. In Operation Meetinghouse, nearly 700,000 incendiary bombs fell on the eastern Shitamachi district, an area dense with factories and working-class housing. Two-fifths of the city burned. More than 276,000 buildings were destroyed. 100,000 civilians died, and 110,000 more were injured. Historic structures including Senso-ji, Zojo-ji, Sengaku-ji, and the main building of the Imperial Palace were destroyed. Between 1940 and 1945, Tokyo's population fell from 6,700,000 to fewer than 2,800,000.

    The estimates for the entire 1944-1945 bombing campaign place civilian deaths between 75,000 and 200,000. After surrender, Tokyo became the base for the Allied Occupation under Douglas MacArthur for six years. A rebuilding plan modelled on London's Metropolitan Green Belt was drafted but ultimately scaled back to a minimal focus on transport infrastructure because of the monetary contraction policy known as the Dodge Line, named after the American economic advisor Joseph Dodge.

  • Tokyo did not experience fast economic growth until around 1950, when heavy industry output returned to pre-war levels. From that point, the city rebuilt at a speed that astonished observers. The 35-metre height restriction imposed on all buildings since 1920 was relaxed in the 1960s to accommodate rising demand for office space. The Kasumigaseki Building, completed in 1968 at 147 metres, was the first skyscraper to reshape the skyline.

    The launch of the Shinkansen high-speed railway between Tokyo and Osaka in 1964 was the world's first dedicated high-speed rail line. The same year, the Tokyo Olympics became the first Olympic Games held in Asia. Governor Ryokichi Minobe, a Marxian economist who served for 12 years starting in 1967, pursued free healthcare for the elderly and financial support for households with children alongside a war against pollution, policies that also produced a large government deficit.

    The 1973 oil crisis ended the rapid growth phase, but Japan's economy had by then become the second-largest in the world, a position it held until China surpassed it in 2010. The American-led Plaza Accord of 1985, aimed at depreciating the US dollar, hit Japan's manufacturing sector hard, particularly small and mid-size Tokyo-based companies. The government responded with a domestic-demand policy that inflated an asset price bubble. By 1990, the Tokyo Stock Exchange was the world's largest by market capitalization, and Tokyo-based NTT was the most highly valued company on the planet.

    The bubble burst in the early 1990s. Japan entered the prolonged "Lost Decades," characterized by extremely low or negative growth, deflation, and stagnant asset prices. The Tokyo Stock Exchange, which at its peak held about 1.5 times the market capitalization of the New York Stock Exchange, fell far from that position, though it remains among the world's top five exchanges today. The financial center that had been called one of the three command centers of the world economy alongside New York and London found its status significantly reduced.

  • Shinjuku Station is the world's busiest train station. That fact alone points to the ambition of Tokyo's transit system, which encompasses up to 62 electric train lines and more than 900 stations. Rail is the primary way people move through the city, with buses, monorails, and trams playing supporting roles.

    Two entities operate the underground network: the privatized Tokyo Metro and the governmental Tokyo Metropolitan Bureau of Transportation, which runs the Toei lines. Tokyo Metro descends from the Imperial Capital Rapid Transit Authority, which operated from 1941 to 2004. JR East, created through the privatization of Japan National Railways in 1987, operates the largest surface railway network including the Yamanote Line loop around central Tokyo and multiple Shinkansen lines serving northeastern Japan. The Tokaido Shinkansen connecting Tokyo and Osaka is operated by JR Central.

    Above ground, Tokyo has the lowest car ownership rate among all Japanese prefectures, at 0.416 cars per household against a national average of 1.025. A 2021 survey found 81 percent of residents without a car were satisfied with public transport and felt no need to own one.

    Below ground, a different kind of engineering answers the city's greatest physical threat: flooding. Tokyo lies on the Kanto Plain with five river systems. Typhoon Kathleen in 1947 destroyed 31,000 homes and killed 1,100 people. Typhoon Ida in 1958 dropped 400 mm of rain in a single week. The response was the Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel, a 6.3 km tunnel system 22 metres underground, completed in 2006 after 13 years of construction. Its cylindrical tanks, each large enough to contain a Space Shuttle or the Statue of Liberty, collect excess water from rivers and drain it to the Edo River. Tokyo Skytree rises 634 metres above this subterranean network, making it the world's tallest tower.

  • Tokyo's territory extends 1,850 km from its administrative headquarters in Shinjuku, reaching the island of Minami Torishima, the easternmost point in Japan. The Tokyo Metropolis administers two island chains: the volcanic Izu Islands, which form part of the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park, and the Ogasawara Islands far to the south, whose climate sits on the boundary between tropical savanna and tropical rainforest.

    Those remote islands carry a linguistic peculiarity. Bonin English, a creole derived from English and Japanese, is spoken in the Ogasawara Islands. The islands' population historically descended from people of Japanese, British, American, Hawaiian, and Polynesian origins, mostly mixed-race, which shaped the language into something that exists nowhere else.

    On the mainland, the city's economic reach is correspondingly global. Tokyo's nominal gross domestic output was 120.2 trillion yen in fiscal year 2022, accounting for 21.2 percent of Japan's total economic output. As the Greater Tokyo Area, it is the second-largest metropolitan economy in the world after New York, with a gross metropolitan product estimated at roughly 2 trillion US dollars. In 2025-26 of the Fortune Global 500 companies were headquartered in Tokyo, with around 20 of them concentrated in the Marunouchi district.

    In 2019, before the COVID-19 pandemic reshaped global travel, 15.18 million foreign visitors spent 1.26 trillion yen in the city. The Toyosu Market, the world's largest wholesale fish and seafood market since it opened on the 11th of October, 2018, serves some 50,000 buyers and sellers every day and carries forward a tradition that stretches back more than four centuries through its predecessor, the Tsukiji Fish Market. That continuity between ancient settlement and modern megacity is not incidental. It is the story Tokyo keeps telling about itself.

Common questions

When did Tokyo become the capital of Japan?

Tokyo officially became the imperial capital on the 3rd of September, 1868, when the city was renamed from Edo to Tokyo, meaning Eastern Capital, and Emperor Meiji moved the imperial seat from Kyoto. The former Edo Castle became the new Imperial Palace.

What was the Great Kanto Earthquake and how did it affect Tokyo?

The Great Kanto Earthquake struck on the 1st of September, 1923, with an estimated magnitude of 7.9. The earthquake and subsequent fires killed an estimated 105,000 people in Tokyo and caused economic losses amounting to 37 percent of Japan's total output. The disaster accelerated the shift from brick to concrete construction across the city.

What happened to Tokyo during World War II bombing raids?

Large-scale Allied bombing of Tokyo began in late 1944. The deadliest single night was Operation Meetinghouse on the 9th-the 10th of March, 1945, when nearly 700,000 incendiary bombs were dropped on the Shitamachi district. The campaign is estimated to have killed between 75,000 and 200,000 civilians and destroyed more than half the city. Tokyo's population fell from 6,700,000 in 1940 to fewer than 2,800,000 by 1945.

How large is the population of Tokyo?

As of 2023, the city proper had over 14 million residents. The Greater Tokyo Area, which includes Tokyo and parts of six neighboring prefectures, had 33 million residents, making it the third-most populous metropolitan area in the world.

What is the Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel in Tokyo?

The Metropolitan Area Outer Underground Discharge Channel is the world's largest underground floodwater diversion facility. It is a 6.3 km tunnel system located 22 metres underground with cylindrical tanks each large enough to fit a Space Shuttle or the Statue of Liberty. It took 13 years to build and was completed in 2006, diverting excess river water to the Edo River during floods.

When did Tokyo first host the Olympic Games?

Tokyo hosted the Summer Olympics in 1964, becoming the first city in Asia to hold the Games. It hosted a second time in 2021, after the originally scheduled 2020 Games were postponed due to the COVID-19 pandemic, making Tokyo the first Asian city to host the Olympics twice.

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