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Saint Paul, Minnesota

Ch. 1 of 8
— CH. 1 · INTRODUCTION —

Contents

Saint Paul, Minnesota

8 sections
  • Saint Paul, the capital of Minnesota, owes its name to a log chapel, but for a time locals called the place after a tavern. A fur trader turned bootlegger known as "Pig's Eye" Parrant set up business just outside the military reservation around Fort Snelling. The fort's commander had evicted the whiskey-selling squatters, and Parrant particularly irritated him. By the early 1840s the nearby community went by "Pig's Eye," or L'Œil du Cochon in French, or "Pig's Eye Landing," after his popular tavern. In 1841 a Catholic missionary named Lucien Galtier had a chapel dedicated to St. Paul built on the bluff above the riverboat landing. He told the settlers to take the chapel's name and stop using "Pig's Eye."

    The 2020 census counted 311,527 people in the city, making it Minnesota's second-most populous. Saint Paul and neighboring Minneapolis form the core of the Twin Cities metropolitan area, home to around 3.7 million residents. How did a bootlegger's landing become a state capital? Who lived on these bluffs long before any chapel went up? And why has this cold river city drawn people from so many parts of the world?

  • Burial mounds in present-day Indian Mounds Park suggest that Hopewell people lived on these bluffs about 2,000 years ago. From the early 17th century until 1837, the Mdewakanton Dakota, a band of the Dakota people, lived nearby at the village of Kaposia. They had fled their ancestral home at Mille Lacs Lake in central Minnesota as the Ojibwe nation expanded westward. The Dakota consider the area around present-day Saint Paul to be Bdóte, the site of creation for their people.

    The Dakota called the place Imniza-Ska, meaning white cliffs, for the pale sandstone exposed on the river's eastern side. Those cliffs were full of caves that the Dakota found useful. In 1767 the explorer Jonathan Carver documented the Wakan Tipi in the bluff below the burial mounds. The Menominee had their own name, Sāēnepān-Menīkān, which means ribbon, silk or satin village. It hints at the area's role in trade after European goods arrived.

    In 1805, two years after the Louisiana Purchase, U.S. Army Lieutenant Zebulon Pike negotiated about 100,000 acres of land from the Dakota. He intended a military reservation where the Mississippi and Minnesota rivers meet, on both sides of the Mississippi up to Saint Anthony Falls. That tract took in all of today's Highland Park neighborhood. Pike also planned a second reservation where the St. Croix meets the Mississippi. Fort Snelling rose at the first confluence in 1819.

    The 1837 Treaty with the Sioux ceded all tribal lands east of the Mississippi to the United States. Chief Little Crow III then moved his village of Kaposia across the river and a few miles onto Dakota land. Fur traders, explorers and settlers gathered near the fort for its security. Many were French-Canadians who had arrived well before American pioneers.

    Violence reached the area in 1842, when an Ojibwe raiding party attacked the Kaposia encampment south of the future city. A battle followed where a creek drained into wetlands two miles south of the Wakan Tipi. The creek became known as Battle Creek, and it is parkland today. From the 1840s to the 1870s, Métis traders hauled buffalo hides from the Red River of the North in ox-drawn Red River Carts. They rolled down Kellogg Street to Lambert's landing, which made Saint Paul the southern end of the Red River Trails.

  • More than 1,000 steamboats served Saint Paul in 1858, and the city made a name for itself as the gateway to the Minnesota frontier and Dakota Territory. Geography explains why. The river valley's topography made the city the last good point to land riverboats coming upriver. For a time the place was called "The Last City of the East."

    Roads and bridges came more slowly. In 1850 the U.S. Army built the territory's first improved road, the Point Douglas Fort Ripley Military Road, which ran through what became Saint Paul neighborhoods. Fort Snelling mattered to the town from the start. Until the town built its first jail, the fort's brig held Saint Paul's prisoners. A cable ferry crossing existed by the 1840s at the latest, but direct access did not come until the seventh bridge opened in 1880. Once streetcars appeared, another bridge to Saint Paul followed in 1904.

    The industrialist James J. Hill founded his railroad empire in Saint Paul. His transcontinental Great Northern Railway was then one of the most dominant lines in the nation. The Great Northern and the Northern Pacific Railway were both headquartered in the city until they merged into the Burlington Northern. Today both are part of the BNSF Railway. Hill's former home, the James J. Hill House, is now one of the city's museums.

  • In 1857 the territorial legislature voted to move the capital to Saint Peter. Joe Rolette, a territorial legislator, stole the text of the bill and went into hiding, and the move never happened. Saint Paul had already been the capital since the Minnesota Territory was created in 1849. That November the Legislative Assembly established the Town of Saint Paul near existing Dakota settlements. It stayed a town until 1854. Harriet Bishop, an educator from New York, had opened the settlement's first school in 1847.

    Today a capitol building designed by Saint Paul resident Cass Gilbert stands on a hill beside downtown, overlooking a bend in the Mississippi. The House and Senate office buildings are there too. The Minnesota Governor's Residence is on Summit Avenue. The Minnesota Democratic-Farmer-Labor Party is headquartered in the city, and so is the Minnesota Department of Natural Resources.

    Saint Paul also serves as county seat of Ramsey County, named for the state's first governor, Alexander Ramsey. The county was originally to be called Saint Paul County. It is now the smallest county by area and the most densely populated. Ramsey is the only home rule county in Minnesota.

    City government runs on a strong mayor and seven-member council, elected by ranked choice voting to four-year terms. The first woman on the council, Elizabeth DeCourcy, was elected in 1956. After the 2023 elections all seven councilors were women, which may make Saint Paul the largest city in American history with an all-female legislative body. Melvin Carter became the city's first African-American mayor. Kaohly Her took office as mayor in 2026. Apart from Norm Coleman, who switched to the Republican Party during his second term, no Republican has won the mayor's office since 1952.

  • The Irish settled at a spot along the Mississippi they called Connemara Patch, after their home county in Ireland, and became the city's first big immigrant wave. They grew prolific in politics, city governance and public safety. That annoyed the Germans and French, who had grown into the majority. Yankees from New England and English, Irish and Scottish soldiers who stayed after their army discharge had come even earlier, drawn by Fort Snelling and the tavern.

    In 1850 the first of many Swedish groups passed through Saint Paul on the way to farming communities in the north and west of the territory. A large group settled in Swede Hollow, which later became home to Poles, Italians and Mexicans. The last Swedish presence moved up Payne Avenue on the East Side in the 1950s. Meanwhile an Austro-Hungarian enclave known as Frogtown, or Froschburg in German, took shape in the Thomas-Dale area.

    By the 1980s Frogtown was becoming home to Vietnamese and other Southeast Asian people who had left war-torn countries. A settlement program for the Hmong diaspora came soon after. By 2000 Saint Paul had the largest urban Hmong population in the nation, and Hmong Americans made up 11 percent of residents in 2021. The Twin Cities area is considered the center of Hmong culture in America. Frogtown's Hmongtown Marketplace is one of many businesses and organizations serving the community. The Freedom Festival, held the first weekend of July at McMurray Field near Como Park, is the country's largest Hmong American sports festival. The city also hosts the Hmong Archives.

    Burmese Americans of the Karen and Karenni ethnic groups arrived as refugees in the 2000s and 2010s, fleeing conflict and discrimination in Myanmar. Minnesota is believed to have the nation's largest Karen population, 12,000 in 2017, mostly in Saint Paul. Mexican immigrants have settled since the 1930s, and the West Side has the biggest concentration. Mexico opened a consulate there in 2005. Somalis and Ethiopians have come since the 1990s, largely as refugees, and their businesses cluster in Summit-University and Frogtown.

    African Americans first entered the region through servitude. No legal slavery existed in Minnesota, yet Army officers at Fort Snelling were permitted to bring enslaved people with them. The 2020 census found the city's population was 19.2 percent Asian, 16.8 percent Black or African American and 9.7 percent Hispanic or Latino. Saint Paul Public Schools serves about 39,000 students from families speaking 90 different languages. Most school communication uses just five: English, Spanish, Hmong, Karen and Somali.

    Operation Metro Surge, a Department of Homeland Security operation involving ICE and CBP, began in December 2025. It aimed to detain and deport undocumented immigrants, first in Minneapolis and Saint Paul. Between 2,000 and 3,000 agents deployed in the state, and activists took trainings to observe and record their actions. In January 2026 federal officers killed Renée Good and Alex Pretti in Minneapolis. Tens of thousands joined mostly peaceful protests, and legal challenges were filed to stop the deployment.

  • On the 20th of August 1904, severe thunderstorms and tornadoes damaged hundreds of downtown buildings. The damage came to $1.78 million, and the storms ripped spans from the High Bridge. Rebuilding after storms was the city's business then. The next great upheaval came by design.

    During the 1960s, urban renewal led Saint Paul to raze neighborhoods west of downtown to make room for the interstate freeway system. From 1959 to 1961 the Rondo neighborhood was demolished for Interstate 94. Rondo was an African American enclave, and its loss drew attention to racial segregation and unequal housing in northern cities. The annual Rondo Days celebration commemorates the community.

    Jesse Ventura, while governor of Minnesota, told David Letterman on the Late Show that the city's streets were designed by "drunken Irishmen." He later apologized, but people had complained about the fractured grid for more than a century. The causes include the curve of the river, hilly ground, quarrels between developers of different neighborhoods and grand plans only half-realized. Newer transit eases some of this. The METRO Green Line, an 11-mile light rail line with 14 stations in Saint Paul, began service on the 14th of June 2014. It averaged 42,500 rides per weekday in 2018. Downtown also has a five-mile enclosed skyway system over 25 city blocks.

    Skyscraper booms began downtown in the 1970s. Because the city center lies directly beneath the flight path into the airport across the river, all construction faces a height restriction. The tallest buildings went up in the late 1980s, including Galtier Plaza, The Pointe of Saint Paul and Wells Fargo Place, formerly the Minnesota World Trade Center. Wells Fargo Place is the tallest in the city.

    Industry has shifted too. The 3M Company moved to Saint Paul in 1910 and built a headquarters in 1940 that still stands on the National Register of Historic Places. Headquarters operations moved to suburban Maplewood in 1962, and the last St. Paul manufacturing stopped in 2009. Ford's Twin Cities Assembly Plant opened in 1924 in Highland Park, beside Lock and Dam No. 1, and closed at the end of 2011. The site is being redeveloped as Highland Bridge, which will include 3,800 housing units. Ecolab and Securian Financial Group remain headquartered in the city.

    The city has paid for development with tax increment financing. In 2018 it had 55 such districts, which helped fund the St. Paul Saints stadium and affordable housing along the Green Line. In November 2021 voters made Saint Paul the only Midwestern city to regulate rent increases, capping annual hikes at 3 percent. Requests for new housing permits fell 80 percent, while Minneapolis permits rose 70 percent. In September 2022 the council amended the law, and Zillow estimates show rents since growing at a pace similar to Minneapolis.

  • The Minneapolis-Saint Paul area has an average annual temperature of 46.5 degrees Fahrenheit, the coldest of any major metropolitan area in the continental United States. The city has a humid continental climate. With no large bodies of water to moderate the air, it can be hit by Arctic air masses, especially in late December, January and February. Summers are warm to hot and humid.

    The last ice age carved the confluence of the Mississippi and Minnesota Rivers, along with the steep bluffs and palisades the city sits on. Receding glaciers and Lake Agassiz sent torrents of water down a glacial river. Saint Paul covers 56.18 square miles, of which 4.20 are water. Its largest lakes are Pig's Eye Lake, Lake Phalen and Lake Como. The Parks and Recreation department runs 160 parks and 41 recreation centers. In 2018 the Trust for Public Land ranked the city second in the nation for park access and quality, behind only Minneapolis.

    In 1886 a New York reporter called Saint Paul "another Siberia." The city answered with the Saint Paul Winter Carnival, modeled on the Montreal Winter Carnival held the year before. Architect A. C. Hutchinson had designed Montreal's ice castle, and the organizers hired him to design Saint Paul's first. The festival returns every January. It has now been held 135 times, with an attendance of 350,000, and features ice and snow sculpting competitions, a medallion treasure hunt and, when it can be arranged, an ice palace.

    Planners expect climate change to bring more extreme heat waves and heavier spring and summer rain, which could cause river and flash flooding.

  • Cartoonist Charles M. Schulz lived in Merriam Park from infancy until 1960. In the late 1990s his Peanuts characters inspired a Chamber of Commerce promotion of giant, decorated sculptures around the city. F. Scott Fitzgerald is another notable resident. Playwright August Wilson premiered many of the ten plays in his Pittsburgh Cycle at the Penumbra Theater.

    The Saint Paul Chamber Orchestra is the nation's only full-time professional chamber orchestra. The Ordway Center for the Performing Arts hosts theater productions, and the Minnesota Opera is a founding tenant. The Artists' Quarter jazz club started in the 1970s in Whittier, Minneapolis, and moved to downtown Saint Paul in 1994. At The Black Dog in Lowertown, French and other European jazz musicians have met Twin Cities players and formed new groups that tour Europe. The Turf Club in Midway has been a music landmark since the 1940s.

    The Minnesota Wild play at the Grand Casino Arena, which opened in 2000. They brought the NHL back to Minnesota for the first time since the North Stars left for Dallas in 1993. In 2007 Sports Illustrated called Saint Paul the new Hockeytown U.S.A. The Minnesota Frost of the Professional Women's Hockey League share the arena and won the league title in 2024 and 2025. The St. Paul Curling Club, founded in 1912, is the largest curling club in the United States.

    The St. Paul Saints were founded in 1884 and shut down in 1961, after the Minnesota Twins moved to Bloomington. The team returned in 1993 as an independent club. Four Hall of Famers born in the city played for the Twins: Dave Winfield, Paul Molitor, Jack Morris and Joe Mauer. The all-black St. Paul Colored Gophers played four seasons from 1907 to 1911.

    On the 25th of March 2015, Major League Soccer awarded its 23rd franchise to Minnesota United FC. Owner Bill McGuire first planned a stadium in downtown Minneapolis. Then-Mayor Betsy Hodges opposed it, saying her city suffered from "stadium fatigue" after building three stadiums within six years. On the 1st of July 2015 McGuire and his partners turned to Saint Paul. On the 23rd of October 2015 they announced a privately financed stadium on a vacant bus barn site in the Midway neighborhood. Allianz Field opened in April 2019 and seats 19,400. The Saints now play at CHS Field in Lowertown, ten miles from their major-league affiliate, the Twins, in downtown Minneapolis.

Updated

Common questions

Why is Saint Paul, Minnesota called Saint Paul?

Saint Paul is named after a log chapel dedicated to St. Paul that Catholic missionary Lucien Galtier had built in 1841 on a bluff above the riverboat landing. Galtier told settlers to adopt the chapel's name and stop calling the community "Pig's Eye."

What is the population of Saint Paul, Minnesota?

Saint Paul had a population of 311,527 in the 2020 census, making it Minnesota's second-most populous city. It forms the core of the Twin Cities metropolitan area with Minneapolis, which has around 3.7 million residents.

How did Saint Paul, Minnesota become the state capital?

Saint Paul became the capital when the Minnesota Territory was created in 1849. In 1857 the territorial legislature voted to move the capital to Saint Peter, but legislator Joe Rolette stole the text of the bill and went into hiding, which prevented the move.

Who are the largest immigrant communities in Saint Paul, Minnesota?

Saint Paul has the largest urban Hmong population in the nation, and Hmong Americans made up 11 percent of residents in 2021. Other large groups include Burmese Karen, Mexican, Somali and Ethiopian communities.

When did the Saint Paul Winter Carnival start?

The Saint Paul Winter Carnival began in 1886, after a New York reporter called Saint Paul "another Siberia." It was modeled on the Montreal Winter Carnival, and the festival has now been held 135 times.

What happened to the Rondo neighborhood in Saint Paul, Minnesota?

The Rondo neighborhood, an African American enclave, was demolished from 1959 to 1961 to build Interstate 94. Its loss drew attention to racial segregation and unequal housing in northern cities, and the annual Rondo Days celebration commemorates the community.

All sources

189 references cited across the entry

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  2. 3St. Paul Charter §1.04
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  18. 24Rondo Neighborhood & the Building of I-94Minnesota Historical Society — 2008
  19. 25JournalThe Effects of a Freeway Displacement on Racial Housing Segregation in a Northern CityF. James Davis — 1965
  20. 26Rondo Days official siteRondo Avenue Inc.
  21. 28Hmong Refugee ResettlementMinnesota Council of Non-Profits
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  35. 55St. Paul (city), MinnesotaU.S. Census Bureau
  36. 56Race and Hispanic or Latino: 2000United States Census Bureau
  37. 58From 15% sample
  38. 66District 7: Thomas-Dale or FrogtownRamsey County Historical Society — 2005
  39. 67NewsHmong get closer look since shootingsTom Kenworthy — November 29, 2004
  40. 68Hmong Resettlement RevisitedBridging Refugee Youth and Children's Services — June 2004
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  42. 73Ramsey County, MinnesotaAssociation of Religion Data Archives
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  47. 78NewsSame old struggles at the MMAAMary Abbe — Chris Harte — July 21, 2008
  48. 80Lock and Dam 1US Army Corps of Engineers
  49. 81NewsBig Picture: Highland BridgeMadison Bloomquist — November 8, 2022
  50. 91Winter Carnival Ice PalacesYoua Vang — February 1, 2023
  51. 93History of the Saint Paul Winter CarnivalSt Paul Winter Carnival — 2008
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  55. 100The Turf ClubJenny Gelhhar — Saint Paul Almanac — 2007
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  57. 103Saint Paul Chamber Orchestra Three concertsUniversity of Chicago — 2008
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  60. 106Hours, Parking, and DirectionsMinnesota Children's Museum — 2010
  61. 108Schubert Club Museum of Musical InstrumentsThe Schubert Club — 2008
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  63. 110St. Paul Culture: MuseumsM.R. Danielson Advertising Associates — 2002
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  65. 113MagazineIn Search of... Hockeytown U.S.AMichael Farber — December 4, 2007
  66. 114About Xcel Energy CenterMinnesota Twins
  67. 115MLB Announces New Minors Teams, LeaguesJonathan Mayo — February 12, 2021
  68. 116St. Paul Baseball HistorySt. Paul Saints
  69. 117Colored Gophers made historyMark Sheldon — February 7, 2003
  70. 118About UsSt. Paul Twin Stars
  71. 119About the St. Paul Curling ClubSaint Paul Curling Club
  72. 121NewsTickets for Circus Juventas summer show announcedPioneer Press staff — June 19, 2012
  73. 131NewsPWHL Officially Announces VenuesIan Kennedy — 2023-11-28
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  75. 134NSC Minnesota Stars Win the 2011 NASL ChampionshipBrian Quarstad — October 30, 2011
  76. 137Sec. 2.01. Chief executiveCity of Saint Paul
  77. 138Sec. 4.01. Legislative powerCity of Saint Paul
  78. 139Sec. 2.01. Elective officialsCity of Saint Paul
  79. 140Sec. 4.01.2. Initial districtsCity of Saint Paul
  80. 142Ranked Voting2015-06-10
  81. 143Sec. 2.02. TermsCity of Saint Paul
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  88. 152Post-Secondary SchoolsMinnesota Department of Education — 2005
  89. 153About UsSaint Paul Public Schools
  90. 154Open EnrollmentMinnesota Department of Education
  91. 155Charter School FactsMN Association of Charter Schools
  92. 156Alphabetical List of Nonpublic SchoolsMinnesota Department of Education — 2005
  93. 157Find a LocationSaint Paul Public Library — 2021
  94. 158StationsMinnesota Public Radio — 2008
  95. 159Company InformationMinnesota Public Radio — 2008
  96. 160Bike-n-Ride by busMetro Transit
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  101. 165Central Corridor next steps and timelineMetropolitan Council — April 2, 2007
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  103. 176BookNorth American RailyardsMichael Rhodes — MBI Publishing Company — 2003
  104. 177St. Paul Downtown AirportMetropolitan Airports Commission
  105. 178AirlinesMSP Airport (mspairport.com)
  106. 179Pilot GroupsAir Line Pilots Association
  107. 180Sister Cities and States of MinnesotaMinnesota Department of Employment and Economic Development
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