Petticoat
The word petticoat emerged from Middle English in the 14th century as a term for a small coat or cote. Both men and women wore these undercoats during that era, often padded or quilted for warmth against cold months. By 1585, the practice of wearing petticoats as visible outer garments was well established in England. The original design meant to be seen hung open with gowns rather than hidden beneath them. In France, similar garments carried different names while Spanish styles included variations considered types of petticoats. Working women in American colonies frequently paired shortgowns over matching colored petticoats. These early versions featured slits or holes allowing access to pockets inside the garment structure.
Petticoats became integral components of gowns throughout the 18th century across Europe and America. They were meant to be seen and fashioned from either matching or contrasting textiles. Highly decorative embroidery appeared on many examples worn by all classes of women. The hem length varied depending on current fashion trends at any given time. By the mid-19th century, petticoats were worn over hoops known as crinoline. Popular white cotton petticoats from the 1860s regularly featured lace and broderie anglaise borders. As bustles gained popularity in the 1870s, petticoats developed flounces toward the back. Colored silk petticoats entered fashion by the 1890s with decorative frills along bottom edges. Early 20th century designs included circular shapes with buttons for attaching additional flounces.
South Asian petticoats rarely fall shorter than ankle length and always hang from the waist down. These garments may also be called inner skirts or inskirts within their cultural contexts. In Japan, juban garments function similarly to Western petticoats when worn under kimonos. Jubans resemble shorter kimonos without two half-size front panels and have sleeves marginally sewn up. White silk commonly forms these pieces though historical versions typically used red silk instead. A half-collar often attaches to protect the collar where it shows beneath the kimono. This protective layer serves both functional and decorative purposes against skin contact. The juban sometimes appears underneath kosode which resembles a tube-sleeved kimono-shaped top without collar.
Christian Dior revived petticoats through his full-skirted New Look collection released in 1947. Tiered ruffled stiffened petticoats remained extremely popular throughout the 1950s and 1960s decades. Some clothing stores continued selling these items as late as 1970. Sybil Connolly recalled how a red flannel petticoat inspired her first international fashion collection. She traveled to Connemara where she observed a woman wearing traditional red flannel petticoats. Buying fabric from a local shop allowed her to create quilted evening skirts that succeeded greatly at fashion shows. One of these skirts now resides within The Hunt Museum collection today. After World War I, silk petticoats had been in fashion before this major revival occurred.
Early feminist Mary Wollstonecraft faced criticism from Horace Walpole who called her a hyena in petticoats. Florentia Sale received the nickname the Grenadier in Petticoats for traveling with military husband Sir Robert Henry Sale. The phrase petticoat government referred to women running domestic affairs or government operations. An Irish pamphlet titled Petticoat Government Exemplified in a Late Case appeared in 1780. Washington Irving used the phrase in his Rip Van Winkle story published in 1819. Frances Trollope wrote a novel named Petticoat Government in 1850 while Emma Orczy followed suit in 1911. President Andrew Jackson's administration became beset by a scandal known as the Petticoat affair. G.K. Chesterton mentioned petticoats positively regarding female dignity and power in his book What's Wrong With The World published in 1910.
The 1936 film The Gorgeous Hussy dramatized the historical Petticoat affair surrounding Andrew Jackson. A 1943 comedy film called Petticoat Larceny depicted a young girl kidnapped by grifters. Iron Curtain politics received satire through Bob Hope and Katharine Hepburn's film The Iron Petticoat released in 1955. Western author Chester William Harrison wrote a short story titled Petticoat Brigade that became The Guns of Fort Petticoat in 1957. Blake Edwards filmed Operation Petticoat in 1959 about an American submarine filled with nurses from the Battle of the Philippines. CBS aired Petticoat Junction television series starting in 1963 before launching Pistols 'n' Petticoats during the 1966-67 season. These productions utilized the garment as symbols for gender dynamics or political commentary throughout decades of entertainment history.
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Common questions
When did the word petticoat emerge from Middle English?
The word petticoat emerged from Middle English in the 14th century as a term for a small coat or cote. Both men and women wore these undercoats during that era, often padded or quilted for warmth against cold months.
What was the original design of petticoats before they became hidden garments?
By 1585, the practice of wearing petticoats as visible outer garments was well established in England. The original design meant to be seen hung open with gowns rather than hidden beneath them.
How were South Asian petticoats designed compared to Western styles?
South Asian petticoats rarely fall shorter than ankle length and always hang from the waist down. These garments may also be called inner skirts or inskirts within their cultural contexts.
Who revived petticoats through his full-skirted New Look collection released in 1947?
Christian Dior revived petticoats through his full-skirted New Look collection released in 1947. Tiered ruffled stiffened petticoats remained extremely popular throughout the 1950s and 1960s decades.
Which historical scandal involving President Andrew Jackson's administration became known as the Petticoat affair?
President Andrew Jackson's administration became beset by a scandal known as the Petticoat affair. The 1936 film The Gorgeous Hussy dramatized the historical Petticoat affair surrounding Andrew Jackson.