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— CH. 1 · INTRODUCTION —

White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia

~4 min read · Ch. 1 of 6
6 sections
  • White Sulphur Springs sits in Greenbrier County, West Virginia, a city of roughly two thousand people whose emblem features five dandelion flowers. Every spring, residents gather for a Dandelion Festival. But beneath that modest civic ritual lies a history that spans luxury resorts, Cold War secrets, the oldest golf club in the country, and a NASA scientist whose name now graces the local library. This is a place whose scale has never matched its significance.

  • In the first half of the nineteenth century, wealthy residents of Virginia's Low Country began making a seasonal pilgrimage into the mountains. What drew them was simple desperation: the heat, humidity, and disease of the summer "sickly season" made staying home genuinely dangerous. White Sulphur Springs offered natural springs, elevation, and relief.

    Word spread. The resort's reputation grew not just as a place of comfort but as a mark of social standing. Guests arrived from well beyond Virginia as the site became known as the southern "Queen of the Watering Places". Exclusivity fed its own reputation, and its reputation fed more exclusivity.

    That original resort has never stopped operating. It became known as The Greenbrier, and it remains one of the country's most luxurious resorts. The Amtrak Cardinal route still stops at a station located at the resort's entrance, three times a week, carrying passengers along the same corridor those nineteenth-century visitors once traveled.

  • In 1884, the Montague family founded Oakhurst Links just outside White Sulphur Springs, making it the oldest organized golf club in the United States. American golf, in other words, began here.

    The Greenbrier built on that legacy. For many years, Sam Snead served as the resort's golf professional and later held the title of golf pro emeritus. Snead's long tenure anchored the resort's identity within the sport.

    The resort's place in competitive golf was cemented in 1979, when The Greenbrier hosted the first Ryder Cup to feature the current format: the United States against a unified European side, rather than a British and Irish team. That format has defined the tournament ever since. In 2010, The Greenbrier hosted the inaugural PGA Greenbrier Classic, opening a new chapter in the site's relationship with professional golf.

  • In 1992, The Washington Post published a report that stunned the country. Hidden beneath The Greenbrier, through decades of the Cold War, was a facility called the Emergency Relocation Center. Its code name was Project Greek Island.

    The installation was designed to house and protect the entire United States Congress in the event of a nuclear attack. It had been built and maintained in complete secrecy, operated beneath a functioning luxury resort that hosted presidents, celebrities, and foreign dignitaries, none of whom were officially told what lay beneath their feet.

    The disclosure ended the bunker's operational status. A facility that had existed specifically because no one outside a small circle knew about it could no longer serve that purpose once the story ran. Today the former bunker is part of The Greenbrier's public history.

  • White Sulphur Springs is the birthplace of Katherine Coleman Johnson, the NASA scientist whose orbital trajectory calculations helped make American spaceflight possible. She was born and raised in this small Greenbrier County city before her work brought her to the national stage.

    In 1987, the old community house in White Sulphur Springs was rebuilt and became the town's public library. Three decades later, in 2017, the building was renamed the Katherine Coleman Johnson Building in her honor. The library sits now as both an educational resource and, in the description the source offers, one of the hearts of the town.

    The Alleghany Subdivision of the former Chesapeake and Ohio Railway, now part of CSX, runs through the city. That rail line once carried limestone flux cargo from Hinton, West Virginia to Clifton Forge, Virginia, and locals gave the line an affectionate nickname: The Gravel Gertie, borrowed from the Dick Tracy character.

  • In June 2016, West Virginia experienced historic severe flooding, and White Sulphur Springs was among the communities hit hardest. The flood was not a distant regional event but a direct blow to the city and its residents.

    The city sits along Howard Creek and is served by Interstate 64 and US Route 60, covering a total area of 1.98 square miles, of which almost all is land. It also falls within the National Radio Quiet Zone, a federal designation that restricts wireless transmissions to protect sensitive scientific equipment in the region. Carriers including AT&T, Verizon, Sprint, and U.S. Cellular are permitted to operate within the area, but only under lower tower frequencies.

    As of the 2020 census, the population stood at 2,231, with a median age of 45 years. About a quarter of residents were 65 or older, and the city recorded a rental vacancy rate of 19.0 percent, a number that reflects broader patterns of rural population change across Appalachia.

Common questions

What is the Katherine Coleman Johnson Building in White Sulphur Springs?

The Katherine Coleman Johnson Building is the public library in White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, renamed in 2017 to honor NASA scientist Katherine Coleman Johnson, who was born in the city. The building was originally rebuilt from an old community house in 1987.

What was Project Greek Island at The Greenbrier resort?

Project Greek Island was the code name for a secret Cold War facility hidden beneath The Greenbrier resort in White Sulphur Springs. Known as the Emergency Relocation Center, it was designed to house and protect the U.S. Congress in the event of a nuclear attack. Its existence was reported by The Washington Post in 1992.

What is the oldest organized golf club in the United States?

Oakhurst Links, founded by the Montague family in 1884 near White Sulphur Springs, West Virginia, is the oldest organized golf club in the United States.

When did The Greenbrier host the first Ryder Cup with the US versus Europe format?

The Greenbrier hosted the first Ryder Cup to feature the current competitive format of the United States against a unified European side in 1979.

What is the population of White Sulphur Springs West Virginia?

White Sulphur Springs had a population of 2,231 at the 2020 census. The median age was 45.0 years, and approximately 24.0% of residents were 65 years of age or older.

Why was White Sulphur Springs called the Queen of the Watering Places?

White Sulphur Springs earned the title "Queen of the Watering Places" in the first half of the nineteenth century when it became the premier summer destination for wealthy Virginia Low Country residents escaping the heat, humidity, and disease of the summer sickly season. As its popularity grew, it attracted elite guests from across the country and became known as a socially exclusive resort.

All sources

21 references cited across the entry

  1. 1bookWest Virginia Blue Book, 2017-2018West Virginia Legislature — West Virginia Legislature — 2018
  2. 2web2019 U.S. Gazetteer FilesUnited States Census Bureau
  3. 4webU.S. Census websiteUnited States Census Bureau
  4. 13webUS Gazetteer files 2010United States Census Bureau
  5. 14webNowData – NOAA Online Weather DataNational Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
  6. 15webStation: White Sulphur Springs, WVNational Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
  7. 21newsKatherine Johnson marks 99th birthday in Spa CityTina Alvey REGISTER-HERALD REPORTER