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— CH. 1 · INTRODUCTION —

Tokyo Imperial Palace

~6 min read · Ch. 1 of 6
6 sections
  • The Tokyo Imperial Palace sits on 1.15 square kilometers of parkland in the Chiyoda district, right at the heart of one of the world's most densely populated cities. Beneath its manicured gardens and ancient moats lies the ground of Edo Castle, a fortress that once commanded the entire Japanese archipelago. How did a shogun's stronghold become the home of an emperor? What survived the firebombing raids of 1945? And who lives inside those walls today, mostly hidden from the millions of people who pass by each year?

  • Edo Castle stood at the center of power for centuries, sheltered by the Tokugawa shogunate and later adapted by imperial hands. Emperor Meiji moved into the palace in 1869, marking the moment when the emperor's court shifted its permanent seat to what would become Tokyo. The line of emperors and empresses associated with the site stretches back roughly two thousand years by traditional reckoning.

    In the Meiji period, most of the original castle structures were cleared away or destroyed by earthquakes and fire. The wooden bridges over the moat gave way to stone and iron replacements. The new palace buildings that rose during that era were constructed of wood, blending traditional Japanese exterior forms with interiors that mixed coffered ceilings and tatami mats with Western chairs, heavy curtains, and parquet floors.

    The centerpiece was a main audience hall covering more than 223 tsubo, or roughly 737 square meters of floor space. Its roof was modeled on the Kyoto Imperial Palace but finished with copper plates rather than Japanese cypress shingles, a practical choice against fire. In the late Taisho and early Showa period, concrete additions arrived, including the headquarters of the Imperial Household Ministry and the Privy Council, buildings that made only token gestures toward Japanese architectural tradition.

    In August 1945, in the closing days of the Pacific War, Emperor Hirohito descended into an underground air-raid shelter on the palace grounds to meet with his Privy Council. Those meetings culminated in Japan's surrender.

  • On the night of the 25th of May 1945, Allied firebombing raids struck Tokyo and destroyed most of the Imperial Palace structures. American bomber pilot Richard Lineberger later stated that the Emperor's Palace was the specific target of a mission on the 29th of July 1945, hit with 2,000-pound bombs. The compound that had been known by a formal Japanese name from 1888 to 1948 was left largely in ruins.

    The reconstruction took decades to plan and complete. A new palace and residences were built on the western portion of the site between 1964 and 1968, designed by architect Junzo Yoshimura. The palace complex was constructed by the Takenaka Corporation using steel-framed reinforced concrete produced domestically. It stands two stories above ground and one story below, finished in a modernist style that still carries clear references to Japanese architectural tradition through its large, gabled hipped roofs, columns, and beams.

    The eastern portion of the former grounds was renamed and opened as a public park in 1968. Famous Nihonga artists, including Maeda Seison, were commissioned to paint the artworks displayed inside the palace complex. The Kyuden, the main palace building used for court functions and receptions, was completed in 1968 and put into active use in April 1969. Its total area reaches 24,175 square meters across seven wings.

  • The Matsu-no-Ma, or Pine Chamber, serves as the throne room inside the Kyuden and is the room where the Emperor grants audiences to the Prime Minister and appoints or dismisses ambassadors and Ministers of State. The six main wings include the Seiden State Function Hall, the Homeiden State Banquet Hall, the Chowaden Reception Hall, a dining room, a drawing room, and the Emperor's work office.

    The private residential area sits separately in the Fukiage Garden, a name the space has carried since the Edo period. The modern imperial residence there was designed by architect Shozo Uchii and completed in 1993. It served as the primary home of Emperor Akihito from the 8th of December 1993, to March 2020. After a period of refurbishment, Emperor Naruhito, Empress Masako, and Princess Aiko moved in during September 2021.

    In the northern section of the Fukiage Garden, a separate palace was originally the residence of Emperor Showa and Empress Kojun. After Emperor Showa's death in 1989, it was renamed the Fukiage Omiya Palace and served as the Empress Dowager's residence until her death in 2000. It is currently not in use.

    The palace precincts also contain a sanctuary where parts of the Imperial Regalia of Japan are kept, playing a religious role in imperial enthronements and weddings.

  • Most of the main palace grounds are closed to the public on ordinary days, with reserved guided tours running Tuesdays through Saturdays giving access only to the Kyuden Totei Plaza in front of the Chowaden. Twice a year, on January 2 and the Emperor's Birthday on February 23, the public may enter through the Nakamon inner gate and gather in that plaza, where the Imperial Family appears on a balcony and the Emperor normally gives a short greeting speech.

    The East Gardens, covering 210,000 square meters over the former Honmaru and Ninomaru areas of Edo Castle, offer more regular public access. They hold the Imperial Tokagakudo Music Hall, the Archives and Mausolea Department, a guards' dojo, and the Museum of the Imperial Collections.

    Not everyone respects the boundaries. In 2008, a British tourist stripped off his clothes, dove repeatedly into the palace moat, and used stones and a plastic pole as weapons against staff and police officers who tried to stop him. A similar incident followed in 2013, when two intoxicated tourists removed their clothing, entered the water near Sakurada Gate, and attempted to reach the palace building. The moat, a feature inherited directly from Edo Castle's defensive design, continues to mark the line between the public city and the private seat of Japan's imperial family.

  • The Ninomaru Garden at the foot of the castle hill was first planted in 1636 by Kobori Enshu, a landscape artist and garden designer of considerable renown in Japanese cultural history. Fire destroyed it in 1867 and the current layout was created in 1968, based on a plan drawn up during the reign of the ninth shogun, Tokugawa Ieshige. In the northwestern corner of the Ninomaru enceinte, one symbolic tree from each of Japan's prefectures has been planted, totaling 260 trees across 30 varieties, each donated by its respective prefecture.

    The Tokagakudo Music Hall stands to the east of the former main donjon of Edo Castle in the Honmaru. Architect Kenji Imai designed it as a commemoration of the 60th birthday of Empress Kojun; it was built with that occasion in mind and completed on the 6th of March 1963. The ferro-concrete building covers 1,254 square meters in an octagonal shape, with each of its eight outer walls decorated with a uniquely designed pattern of mosaic tiles. Construction began in August 1964 and finished in February 1966.

    The Suwa no Chaya, a teahouse whose history stretches back to the Edo period, has been moved and reconstructed multiple times. It left the Fukiage Garden for the Akasaka Palace after the Meiji Restoration, was rebuilt in its original location in 1912, and was moved again during the construction of the East Garden. It stands today as one of the oldest surviving links to the site's pre-modern past. In 2004, a non-profit group was founded with the goal of reconstructing at least the main donjon of the original Edo Castle, and by March 2013 its leader, Naotaka Kotake, had drawn up a reconstruction blueprint based on historical documents.

Common questions

Where is the Tokyo Imperial Palace located?

The Tokyo Imperial Palace is located in the Chiyoda district of Chiyoda ward in Tokyo. It occupies 1.15 square kilometers of parkland built on the grounds of the former Edo Castle.

Who lives in the Tokyo Imperial Palace today?

Emperor Naruhito, Empress Masako, and Princess Aiko live in the modern imperial residence within the Fukiage Garden. They moved in during September 2021 after the residence underwent a period of refurbishment.

What happened to the Tokyo Imperial Palace during World War II?

Allied firebombing on the night of the 25th of May 1945, destroyed most of the palace structures. American bomber pilot Richard Lineberger stated that the palace was the target of a mission on the 29th of July 1945, struck with 2,000-pound bombs.

When was the current Tokyo Imperial Palace built?

The current palace complex was constructed between 1964 and 1968, designed by architect Junzo Yoshimura and built by the Takenaka Corporation. The Kyuden main building was completed in 1968 and put into use in April 1969.

Can tourists visit the Tokyo Imperial Palace?

Most of the main grounds are closed to the public except for reserved guided tours from Tuesdays to Saturdays. The public may enter the Kyuden Totei Plaza on January 2 and on the Emperor's Birthday, February 23, for an appearance by the Imperial Family.

What is the Matsu-no-Ma in the Tokyo Imperial Palace?

The Matsu-no-Ma, or Pine Chamber, is the throne room inside the Kyuden. The Emperor grants audiences to the Prime Minister there and uses the room to appoint or dismiss ambassadors and Ministers of State.