Dove (Unilever brand)
American chemist Vincent Lamberti held the original patents for Dove in the 1950s while working for Lever Brothers. The brand's first product, the Dove Beauty Bar, launched in the United States during 1957. Most American consumers at that time preferred sitting in bathtubs rather than standing under showers. This habit created a persistent problem known as bathtub rings or soap scum after bathing. Consumers spent significant time and effort scouring their tubs to remove these stubborn deposits. Lamberti solved this issue by creating a cleansing bar from synthetic detergents instead of traditional soap. The new formula did not leave behind residue on the porcelain surface of the bath. Unilever briefly test marketed the product in Europe during the mid-1960s but decided against a full launch there. The initial market share reached only 3% and remained a niche player for over twenty-five years.
Unilever relaunched the Dove brand with a medical marketing campaign in 1979. Dermatologists confirmed that the product was less irritating to human skin than other soaps available at the time. By 1986, Dove had become the best-selling soap brand in the United States. The company officially introduced the brand to Europe starting with Italy in 1989. Rapid growth helped Unilever overtake Procter & Gamble as America's leading soap maker by 1991. In 2001, Dove held a 24% market share of bar soap sales globally. That same year, worldwide sales exceeded one billion dollars annually. Dove became Unilever's third-largest brand despite Olay generating higher domestic revenue through other categories. The brand expanded into antiperspirants, body washes, lotions, hair care, and facial products throughout the 1990s. A donation of one million dollars worth of Dove products went to Boys and Girls Clubs of Dane County in Wisconsin during 2025.
The Dove Beauty Bar primarily uses isethionates as its main active ingredient. As of 1992, between 47% and 49% of each bar consisted of sodium cocoyl isethionate or SCI. This expensive ingredient made up nearly half the composition of the product. About 23% to 25% of the bar contained fatty acids presented as moisturizing cream. The final pH level sits between 7.2 and 7.5 to ensure neutrality for skin contact. Traditional soap scum formed from alkyl sulfate compounds left behind residue on surfaces. Other cleansing manufacturers in Western Europe began reformulating their products toward isethionates by the early 21st century. Sodium cocoyl isethionate carries a strong coconut odor due to its derivation from coconuts. High fragrance levels were added during the 1990s to mask this natural scent. Unilever later substituted sodium-distilled topped cocoyl isethionate to solve the odor problem. The company eventually transitioned to using sodium lauroyl isethionate as the primary ingredient instead.
Dove launched its Campaign for Real Beauty in September 2004 with a new marketing strategy. Geyner Andres Gaona and Amy created the Dove Self-Esteem Project two years later in 2006. A 2016 study interviewed over 10,000 women across thirteen different countries regarding body image. More than half of these women reported feeling pressure from media to meet unrealistic beauty standards. Confidence levels related to body image showed a constant decline among the participants. Critics labeled the campaign hypocritical because Unilever also produced Axe advertising which used highly sexualized images of women. The brand claimed to celebrate diversity while facing accusations of promoting narrow beauty ideals elsewhere in its portfolio. The initiative aimed to shift public perception away from traditional beauty norms toward inclusivity and self-acceptance.
An October 2017 Facebook video featuring a black woman removing her T-shirt sparked immediate backlash. The clip showed the woman transforming into a white woman who then removed her own shirt to reveal an Asian woman. The full thirty-second television version included seven women of varying races and ages. Unilever withdrew the advertisement and apologized stating it should never have happened. Lola Ogunyemi was the black woman featured in the commercial and she defended the brand against critics. She stated that the advert had been misinterpreted by the public rather than intentionally offensive. Dove expressed deep regret for the offense caused and clarified their intent to show the product was for every woman. Multiple news outlets including The Guardian, The New York Times, and Time covered the controversy extensively. The incident led to widespread discussion about colorism within the advertising industry.
Greenpeace launched a campaign called Real beauty real harm starting in 2023 to highlight plastic waste issues. The campaign focused on countries such as India, Indonesia, and the Philippines where Dove products generate significant packaging waste. The UK Competition and Markets Authority announced scrutiny of environmental claims made by Unilever later that same year. This move formed part of a wider investigation into greenwashing practices across consumer goods companies. Concerns arose regarding how Unilever marketed certain products as environmentally friendly to customers. A survey conducted by Kantar's Brand Inclusion Index in August 2023 showed British consumers viewed Dove as one of the most inclusive skincare brands available. Despite these positive inclusion ratings, the company faced growing pressure to address its environmental footprint from plastic production to disposal.
Common questions
Who invented Dove and when did the brand launch in the United States?
American chemist Vincent Lamberti held the original patents for Dove while working for Lever Brothers during the 1950s. The brand's first product, the Dove Beauty Bar, launched in the United States during 1957.
What is the main active ingredient used in Dove Beauty Bar as of 1992?
The Dove Beauty Bar primarily uses sodium cocoyl isethionate or SCI as its main active ingredient. As of 1992, between 47% and 49% of each bar consisted of this expensive ingredient derived from coconuts.
When did Unilever officially introduce the Dove brand to Europe starting with Italy?
Unilever briefly test marketed the product in Europe during the mid-1960s but decided against a full launch there at that time. The company officially introduced the brand to Europe starting with Italy in 1989.
Why did critics label the Dove Campaign for Real Beauty as hypocritical after it launched in September 2004?
Critics labeled the campaign hypocritical because Unilever also produced Axe advertising which used highly sexualized images of women. The brand claimed to celebrate diversity while facing accusations of promoting narrow beauty ideals elsewhere in its portfolio.
Who was the black woman featured in the controversial October 2017 Facebook video featuring Dove?
Lola Ogunyemi was the black woman featured in the commercial and she defended the brand against critics. She stated that the advert had been misinterpreted by the public rather than intentionally offensive.