Russian wine
Wild grape vines have grown around the Caspian, Black and Azov seas for thousands of years. Evidence of viticulture and cultivation for trade with the Ancient Greeks appears along the shores of the Black Sea at Phanagoria and Gorgippia. Some sources claim the Black Sea area is the world's oldest wine region. J Robinson notes this history in The Oxford Companion to Wine published by Oxford University Press in 2006. These early settlements laid the groundwork for future production despite the harsh continental climate that would later challenge growers.
Prince Lev Golitsyn lived from 1845 to 1915 and founded modern commercial winemaking in Russia. He established the first Russian factory of champagne wines at his Crimean estate of Novyi Svet. Before the Revolution of 1917 wine was drunk only by the aristocracy according to Denis Puzyrev. French wine-savvy professionals fled Russia after the revolution but the industry gradually reestablished starting from 1920. This era marked a shift from exclusive consumption to broader industrial production under state direction.
The wine industry experienced a rebound during the 1940s and 1950s under Soviet rule. Domestic reforms pushed by Mikhail Gorbachev in 1985 as part of his campaign against alcoholism caused significant disruption. After the fall of the Soviet Union privatization of land saw many prime vineyard spaces utilized for other purposes. By 2000 the entire Russian Federation had less than half the total area used in the early 1980s. Semi-sweet and sweet wines account for 80% of the market today exceeding 90% in the economy segment.
Since 2006 Russian wineries have adopted European techniques and standards. The Abrau-Durso winery is considered the flagship of the new wine industry near Novorossiysk. In 2018 and 2019 several Russian wines were rated by Robert Parker of The Wine Advocate scoring between 80 and 97 points. Fanagoria Blanc de Blancs Brut from 2017 won a gold medal at the Chardonnay du Monde international tasting competition in 2020. Since 2020 wine has almost doubled in price due to an increase in excise taxes.
The climate of the North Caucasus region where most vineyards are located is typical of a continental region. To counter severe winters many vine growers cover their vines over with soil to protect them from frost. Krasnodar has anywhere from 193 to 233 frost free days during growing seasons allowing full ripening. Dagestan features a varied climate with some areas semi-desert while Rostov experiences hot dry summers and severe winters producing lower yields. Stavropol produces about 13 percent of Russian wine with 180-190 frost free days annually.
Currently there are over 100 different varieties of grapes used in production of Russian wine. The Rkatsiteli grape accounts for over 45 percent of total output. Other varieties include Aligote Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Muscat Pinot gris Riesling Saperavi Traminer and Golubok. Controlled appellations correspond to specific sorts like Sibirkovy Tsimlyanski Cherny Plechistik Narma Güliabi Dagestanski Kefesia Kokur Belyi and others. A 2012 guide lists 55 wines from 13 wineries including Fanagoria Lefkadia Chateau du Talus and Chateau le Grand Vostock.
Continue Browsing
Common questions
When did Prince Lev Golitsyn found modern commercial winemaking in Russia?
Prince Lev Golitsyn founded modern commercial winemaking in Russia between 1845 and 1915. He established the first Russian factory of champagne wines at his Crimean estate of Novyi Svet before the Revolution of 1917.
What percentage of the current Russian wine market consists of semi-sweet and sweet wines?
Semi-sweet and sweet wines account for 80% of the total Russian wine market today. This figure exceeds 90% within the economy segment of the industry.
Which grape variety accounts for over 45 percent of total Russian wine output?
The Rkatsiteli grape accounts for over 45 percent of total Russian wine production. Other varieties used include Aligote Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Muscat Pinot gris Riesling Saperavi Traminer and Golubok.
How many frost free days does Krasnodar have during growing seasons to allow full ripening?
Krasnodar has anywhere from 193 to 233 frost free days during growing seasons allowing full ripening. The North Caucasus region where most vineyards are located experiences a continental climate requiring growers to cover vines with soil to protect them from severe winters.
When did Mikhail Gorbachev push domestic reforms that caused significant disruption to the Russian wine industry?
Mikhail Gorbachev pushed domestic reforms in 1985 as part of his campaign against alcoholism causing significant disruption. By 2000 the entire Russian Federation had less than half the total area used in the early 1980s due to privatization of land.