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— CH. 1 · INTRODUCTION —

Notre-Dame de Paris

~12 min read · Ch. 1 of 8
8 sections
  • Notre-Dame de Paris sits on a small island in the River Seine, in the heart of a city that has grown up around it for more than eight centuries. On the 15th of April 2019, the world watched as its spire collapsed in a shower of sparks and 750 tonnes of stone and lead. The image was stunning precisely because it seemed impossible. This was a building that had survived the French Revolution, two world wars, and a plot by the Paris Commune to burn it to the ground.

    But Notre-Dame has never simply been a building. It is the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Paris, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and it draws about 12 million visitors a year. It holds some of the most significant Christian relics in Europe, including the crown of thorns and fragments of the True Cross. It hosted the coronation of Napoleon and the liberation Mass of General Charles de Gaulle. Victor Hugo wrote a novel to save it.

    How does a single structure become so many things to so many people over so many centuries? What did its builders actually achieve, and what nearly destroyed it, more than once? And when the fire came in 2019, what did the world's response reveal about the cathedral's meaning today?

  • In 1160, Bishop Maurice de Sully looked at the aging Romanesque church on the Île de la Cité and decided it was no longer adequate for the growing city of Paris. He demolished it, recycled its materials, and chose to build in the Gothic style, which had only recently been pioneered at the royal abbey of Saint Denis in the late 1130s. His ambition was enormous.

    A chronicler recorded in the Memorial Historiarum that the cornerstone was laid between the 24th of March and the 25th of April 1163, in the presence of King Louis VII and Pope Alexander III. Work would continue for generations. The high altar was consecrated on the 19th of May 1182 by Cardinal Henri de Château-Marçay. The nave was completed around 1200. The western façade was largely finished by the mid-1240s. Four phases of construction proceeded under two bishops named de Sully, neither of them related, and the individual master builders who directed the work left no names in the historical record.

    The stone for the vaults was quarried in Vexin, a county northwest of Paris, and transported up the Seine by boat. Analysis of vault stones that fell in the 2019 fire revealed this detail, connecting modern disaster to medieval logistics.

    What made Notre-Dame distinctive was not just its scale but its structural innovation. The flying buttress, introduced in the 12th century, transferred the outward thrust of the roof away from the walls entirely, carrying the weight to a series of external counter-supports topped with stone pinnacles. Art historian Andrew Tallon, working from detailed laser scans of the entire structure, argued that the buttresses were part of the original design. His scans showed that "the upper part of the building has not moved one smidgen in 800 years." The practical result was that walls could be thinner and higher, and windows could be larger. Light became architecture.

    In the late 1240s, Jean de Chelles added a gabled portal to the north transept topped by a spectacular rose window. Pierre de Montreuil executed a similar scheme on the southern transept from 1258. By 1302, the building was complete enough for Philip the Fair to open the first Estates General within its walls. The scholar John of Jandun, writing his Treatise on the Praises of Paris in 1323, called Notre-Dame "that most glorious church of the most glorious Virgin Mary" and asked where else one could find "two towers of such magnificence and perfection."

  • The French Revolution arrived at Notre-Dame as organised destruction. In 1790, the Revolutionary Paris Commune stripped the cathedral of all its bronze, lead, and precious metals, to be melted down. By 1793, the building had been rededicated to the Cult of Reason, and then to the Cult of the Supreme Being in 1794. The twenty-eight statues of biblical kings on the west façade were beheaded, mistaken for statues of French kings. Many of those heads were found during a 1977 excavation and are now displayed at the Musée de Cluny.

    For a time, the Goddess of Liberty replaced the Virgin Mary on several altars. The cathedral became a warehouse for food storage.

    Napoleon Bonaparte reversed this through the Concordat of 1801, restoring the cathedral to the Catholic Church, finalised on the 18th of April 1802. On the 2nd of December 1804, he crowned himself Emperor within its walls. Architects Charles Percier and Pierre-François-Léonard Fontaine had made quasi-Gothic modifications to the interior for the occasion, while the exterior was whitewashed.

    But the damage of the Revolution had not been repaired, and over the following decades Notre-Dame fell into such disrepair that Paris officials began discussing its demolition. Victor Hugo's novel Notre-Dame de Paris, published in 1831, was written explicitly to save the building. Its success raised public awareness of the cathedral's decaying state. The same year the novel appeared, anti-Legitimists plundered the sacristy. In 1844, King Louis Philippe ordered restoration to begin.

    The dangers were not finished with the 19th century. During the Paris Commune of 1871, Communards piled furniture inside the cathedral intending to burn it. The plan was abandoned only because the fire would also have destroyed the neighbouring Hôtel-Dieu hospital, full of patients.

  • Jean-Baptiste Lassus and Eugène Viollet-le-Duc were appointed in 1844 to lead the restoration, chosen in part because they had already distinguished themselves with the restoration of the nearby Sainte-Chapelle. Viollet-le-Duc submitted a budget of 3,888,500 francs the following year; it was reduced to 2,650,000 francs. That money was exhausted by 1850 and additional funds had to be secured. By the time the work was done, the total cost exceeded 12 million francs.

    Viollet-le-Duc's approach was creative, not purely archaeological. Supervising a large team of sculptors, glassworkers, and other craftsmen, he remade or added decorations wherever he felt they matched the spirit of the original Gothic style. The original 13th-century spire had been removed in 1786, battered and bent by five centuries of wind. Viollet-le-Duc replaced it with a taller, more ornate version in oak covered with lead, weighing 750 tonnes in total. He surrounded it with copper statues of the Twelve Apostles. One of them, the statue of Saint Thomas, patron saint of architects, was given the features of Viollet-le-Duc himself. The saint faced the spire rather than outward toward Paris, as all the others did.

    The cockerel weathervane at the very top held three relics placed there in 1935 by Archbishop Jean Verdier: a tiny piece of the Crown of Thorns from the cathedral treasury, and relics of Saint Denis and Saint Genevieve, patron saints of Paris. The cockerel was recovered in the rubble after the 2019 fire and is now on display inside the reopened cathedral.

    To secure the foundation of the new sacristy, Viollet-le-Duc's workers had to dig 9 m into the ground. Master glassworkers meticulously copied 13th-century styles, guided by the research of art historians Antoine Lusson and Adolphe Napoléon Didron. The restoration ran from 1844 to 1864, reshaping how the world would see Notre-Dame for the next 150 years.

  • On the 15th of April 2019, the fire broke out in the cathedral attic at 18:18. The smoke detectors triggered immediately, signalling a cathedral employee, who did not call the fire brigade but instead sent a guard to investigate. The guard was directed to the wrong location, the attic of the adjoining sacristy, and reported no fire. About 15 minutes later, the error was discovered. Even then, the fire brigade was not called. By the time the guard climbed 300 steps to the correct attic location, the fire was well advanced. The alarm system was not designed to automatically notify the fire brigade. The call came at 18:51, more than half an hour after the alarm had begun sounding. Firefighters arrived in under ten minutes.

    The flèche collapsed at 19:50, taking with it the 750 tonnes of stone and lead it was built from. The firefighters inside were ordered back. By then, the fire had spread to the north tower, where the eight bells were. The risk was that falling bells could destroy the tower structure, and endanger the entire cathedral. A team of 20 firefighters climbed the narrow stairway of the south tower, crossed to the north tower, lowered hoses to fire engines below, and sprayed water on the fire beneath the bells. By 21:45, they had the fire under control.

    President Emmanuel Macron stated that about 500 firefighters helped battle the blaze. One firefighter was seriously injured and two police officers were hurt.

    What was saved was substantial. The façade, towers, walls, buttresses, and stained-glass windows all survived. The stone vaulting that forms the cathedral's ceiling had several holes but was otherwise intact. The Great Organ, with its more than 8,000 pipes, was saved but damaged by water. The copper statues from the flèche had been removed days earlier for restoration work, so they were not lost.

    Christmas Mass was not held in 2019 for the first time in more than 200 years. The first choir performance since the fire took place in December 2020, with only eight singers due to pandemic restrictions.

  • Macron promised restoration within five years. The announcement of an international architectural competition to redesign the spire drew immediate controversy: more than 1,170 heritage experts signed an open letter urging the government to respect existing regulations. A poll published in the French newspaper Le Figaro on the 8th of May 2019 showed that 55% of French respondents wanted a spire identical to the original.

    A law passed on the 11th of May 2019 made Notre-Dame temporarily exempt from heritage procedures to accelerate work. A subsequent law, enacted on the 29th of July 2019, required that the restoration must "preserve the historic, artistic and architectural interest of the monument." The first task was removing 250-300 tonnes of melted metal scaffolding tubes before reconstruction could begin. A crane 84 m high was installed beside the cathedral. That removal was completed by November 2020.

    Beginning in February 2021, teams selected a thousand mature oak trees from forests across France, each between 50 and 90 cm in diameter, 8 to 14 m tall, and several hundred years old. Once cut, the timber had to dry for 12 to 18 months before use.

    The work also produced discoveries. A dig between February and April 2022 unearthed statues and tombs beneath the cathedral floor, including a 14th-century lead sarcophagus found 65 feet below the transept crossing. Scientists examined it with an endoscopic camera and found the upper part of a skeleton. In March 2023, archaeologists discovered thousands of metal staples throughout the structure, some dating to the early 1160s, leading researchers to conclude that Notre-Dame is the first known Gothic cathedral where iron was used extensively to bind stones as a structural material.

    The new spire was placed on the 16th of December 2023. The gilded cockerel designed by architect Philippe Villeneuve was installed containing the same relics as the old one, along with the names of two thousand people who had worked on the reconstruction.

  • King Louis IX, known as Saint Louis, purchased the crown of thorns, a nail from the True Cross, and a sliver of the True Cross from the Latin Emperor Baldwin II at great expense, and deposited them in Notre-Dame during the construction of the Sainte-Chapelle. An undershirt believed to belong to Louis was added to the collection after his death. On the 13th of December 2024, the Crown of Thorns was returned to the cathedral following the reopening.

    The cathedral's Great Organ has its origins in an instrument built in 1403 by Frédéric Schambantz. That instrument was rebuilt repeatedly over the following three centuries; twelve of Schambantz's original pipes and some wood still survive. The current organ, which has 115 stops across five manuals, was built during the 19th-century restoration by Aristide Cavaillé-Coll, using pipework from earlier instruments, and dedicated in 1868. An electric blower was installed in 1924, financed by Rolls-Royce CEO Claude Johnson. The organ now has more than 8,000 pipes. The position of titular organist of Notre-Dame is considered one of the most prestigious organist posts in France. Olivier Latry has held the post since 1985; Thierry Escaich joined him in 2024.

    Notre-Dame currently has ten bells. The largest, Emmanuel, is in the south tower. Eight bells, including Gabriel, Denis, and Jean-Marie, are mounted in the north tower. The practice of bell-ringing at Notre-Dame is recorded as early as 1198. The bells have rung for events including the armistice of the 11th of November 1918, the liberation of Paris, the fall of the Berlin Wall, and the September 11 attacks. The original medieval bell Guillaume was renamed three times and recast five times between 1230 and 1770.

  • Notre-Dame reopened on the 7th of December 2024 in a ceremony presided over by Laurent Ulrich, the Archbishop of Paris, and attended by 1,500 world leaders and dignitaries, including US president-elect Donald Trump, US first lady Jill Biden, Britain's Prince William, and Ukrainian president Volodymyr Zelenskyy. Pope Francis declined Macron's invitation, choosing instead to hold a consistory in Rome to create 21 new cardinals that day.

    The restoration, funded by an estimated $739 million, was described by Macron as a metaphor for the nation's ability to accomplish what he called "the impossible." The rebuilding effort had lasted more than 2,000 days.

    Not every decision was welcomed. The cleaning of the interior walls, which removed centuries of accumulated soot with a latex solution, drew objections from heritage critics in France and abroad. The restored stone is described by restorers as having a "blonde" colour, not the white that critics feared. A separate controversy emerged over a proposal to replace six undamaged 19th-century stained-glass windows in the nave chapels with new contemporary designs by artist Claire Tabouret, whose work aimed to depict people from different cultures and backgrounds. The French Commission on Architectural Monuments and Patrimony rejected the plan in July 2024, yet the windows were still being made as of 2026, with the debate unresolved.

    The cathedral stands again as the most visited monument in Paris, drawing visitors who know it from Hugo's novel, from the 2019 fire, or simply from the sight of it on the river. Underneath their feet, archaeologists documented construction techniques from the early 1160s, and the names of two thousand workers who rebuilt the spire are now sealed inside the new cockerel above.

Common questions

When was Notre-Dame de Paris built?

Construction of Notre-Dame de Paris began between the 24th of March and the 25th of April 1163, with the laying of the cornerstone in the presence of King Louis VII and Pope Alexander III. The cathedral was largely completed by 1260, though it was modified in succeeding centuries.

What caused the Notre-Dame fire in 2019?

The fire at Notre-Dame broke out on the 15th of April 2019 at 18:18 in the cathedral attic. It was speculated to be linked to ongoing renovation work. The flèche collapsed at 19:50, bringing down 750 tonnes of stone and lead, and about 500 firefighters helped battle the blaze.

When did Notre-Dame reopen after the 2019 fire?

Notre-Dame de Paris reopened on the 7th of December 2024 in a ceremony attended by 1,500 world leaders and dignitaries. The restoration cost an estimated $739 million and took more than 2,000 days to complete.

Who was Eugène Viollet-le-Duc and what did he do to Notre-Dame?

Eugène Viollet-le-Duc was the architect appointed in 1844 to lead the 19th-century restoration of Notre-Dame, alongside Jean-Baptiste Lassus. He supervised the restoration from 1844 to 1864, at a total cost exceeding 12 million francs, and added the ornate 750-tonne spire that would collapse in the 2019 fire.

What relics are kept in Notre-Dame de Paris?

Notre-Dame holds some of the most significant Christian relics in Europe, including the crown of thorns, a nail from the True Cross, and a sliver of the True Cross, originally purchased by King Louis IX from the Latin Emperor Baldwin II. The crown of thorns was returned to the cathedral on the 13th of December 2024.

How did Notre-Dame survive the French Revolution?

Notre-Dame suffered extensive damage during the French Revolution. In 1790, bronze, lead, and precious metals were stripped out. By 1793 the cathedral had been rededicated to the Cult of Reason. Napoleon restored it to the Catholic Church through the Concordat of 1801, finalised on the 18th of April 1802.

All sources

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