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— CH. 1 · THE FROZEN DREAM —

Northwest Passage

~6 min read · Ch. 1 of 5
5 sections
  • In 1497, John Cabot set sail from England under the command of King Henry VII with a singular goal. He sought a direct route to the Orient through the northern waters of North America. The mapmakers of that era believed an open sea existed near the North Pole. They imagined a strait connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. This belief drove centuries of exploration into the icy unknown. Early attempts by explorers like Martin Frobisher in 1576 ended in failure or disaster. Frobisher charted what is now called Frobisher Bay but found no passage. The harsh reality of ice and rough waters blocked every attempt for hundreds of years. Sir John Franklin's expedition in 1845 remains one of the most famous tragedies. His two ships vanished into the Arctic, leaving behind notes about being ice-locked near King William Island. The crew perished over time due to starvation, scurvy, and exposure. In 1850, Robert McClure discovered the Northwest Passage while searching for Franklin. He reached Banks Island and viewed Melville Island across McClure Strait. His ship was trapped in the ice for three winters. McClure and his starving crew were rescued by search parties traveling over the ice on sledges. They returned to England in 1854, becoming the first people known to circumnavigate the Americas. Their journey combined ship travel with sledge transport across frozen terrain. The British Parliament awarded them £10,000 for their discovery. Yet the route remained impassable for regular shipping until modern times.

  • The Canadian Arctic Archipelago contains a complex network of waterways connecting the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. Five to seven distinct routes exist through these islands, though not all suit large vessels. The eastern entrance begins at Baffin Bay between Greenland and Baffin Island. Ships must pass through Lancaster Sound at the north end of Baffin Island. From there they enter the Parry Channel which extends westward toward Victoria Island. The Prince of Wales Strait lies northwest of Victoria Island as another key junction. Some paths like the Fury and Hecla Strait remain closed by ice most years. Other routes such as Peel Sound run south between Somerset Island and Prince of Wales Island. These channels vary greatly in depth and width. Many sections measure only meters deep making commercial navigation impossible without specialized ships. In 2013, the Nordic Orion cargo ship carried 73,500 tonnes of coking coal from Vancouver to Finland. It traveled more than 4,000 kilometers shorter than the traditional Panama Canal route. Despite this success, shallow waters limit how many ships can use the passage safely. Only twelve percent of Canada's Arctic waters had been charted to modern standards as of 2014. The uncertainty of physical damage to ships creates higher insurance premiums for operators. Thinning ice allows more frequent crossings but does not guarantee safe passage year-round.

  • Climate change has transformed the Northwest Passage from an impassable barrier into a potential shipping lane. On the 21st of August 2007, satellite images showed the passage open to ships without needing an icebreaker. This marked the first time since records began in 1972 that the waterway was clear. Professor Mark Serreze of the U.S. National Snow and Ice Data Center called it a historic event. He warned that the Arctic had entered what he termed a death spiral due to climate change. By September 2013, the Nordic Orion became the first commercial bulk carrier to transit the passage successfully. It carried 68,000 tonnes of cargo from Port Metro Vancouver to Pori, Finland. The ship saved over 4,000 kilometers compared to routes through the Panama Canal. In 2016, the cruise liner Crystal Serenity transported 1,500 passengers and crew from Vancouver to New York City. Tickets for the 32-day trip started at $22,000 and sold out quickly. Experts predict the passage may be traversable four months per year by the end of the 21st century. However, thick sections of ice still remain difficult to melt even as global temperatures rise. Drifting chunks of ice can clog entire straits or severely damage a ship's hull. Cargo routes remain slow and uncertain depending on prevailing conditions. Many containerized ships operate on just-in-time schedules which cannot tolerate delays. The relative isolation of the passage impedes shipping companies from optimizing operations. As of 2014, only twelve percent of Canada's Arctic waters were charted to modern standards.

  • The legal status of the Northwest Passage divides Canada and the United States sharply. The Canadian government classifies these waters as internal waters under the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea. This classification gives Canada the right to bar transit through these waters entirely. Some maritime nations including the United States claim the waters are an international strait. Under this regime foreign vessels have the right of transit passage without permission. In such a system Canada could enact fishing and environmental regulations but not close the passage. The dispute arose in 1969 when the U.S. oil tanker Manhattan sailed through the Arctic Archipelago. The prospect of more American traffic heading to Prudhoe Bay Oil Field made Canada realize political action was required. In 1985, the U.S. Coast Guard icebreaker Polar Sea passed from Greenland to Alaska. The ship submitted to inspection by the Canadian Coast Guard before passing through. This event infuriated the Canadian public and resulted in a diplomatic incident. The United States refused to recognize the Canadian claim despite historical precedent regarding archipelago baselines. In 1988 both governments signed an agreement called Arctic Cooperation resolving practical issues without solving sovereignty questions. However, in late 2005 reports emerged that U.S. nuclear submarines had traveled unannounced through Canadian Arctic waters. Prime Minister Stephen Harper contested statements claiming Arctic waters were international. On the 9th of April 2006, Canada's Joint Task Force declared the region as Canadian Internal Waters instead of Northwest Passage.

  • Reduced sea ice has allowed new species to migrate across the Arctic Ocean into previously inaccessible areas. Scientists believe gray whales have returned to Atlantic waters after being hunted to extinction there in the 18th century. One such whale appeared in the Mediterranean Sea in May 2010. Researchers speculated it followed food sources through the Northwest Passage and continued onward. The plankton species Neodenticula seminae had not been recorded in the Atlantic for 800,000 years. It has become increasingly prevalent in recent decades due to open water conditions. In August 2010, two bowhead whales from West Greenland and Alaska entered the passage from opposite directions. They spent approximately ten days sharing the same area before moving on. These biological changes signal a fundamental shift in Arctic ecosystems. Open waters allow Pacific species to reach the North Atlantic for the first time in centuries. The migration patterns suggest future environmental transformations may accelerate as ice continues to thin. Scientists at a meeting of the American Geophysical Union revealed that NASA satellites observed a sixteen percent decrease in cloud coverage during summer 2007 compared to 2006. This effect allows more sunlight to penetrate Earth's atmosphere and warm Arctic Ocean waters. Warmer temperatures contribute directly to melting sea ice and opening the Northwest Passage.

Common questions

Who discovered the Northwest Passage and when?

Robert McClure discovered the Northwest Passage in 1850 while searching for John Franklin. He reached Banks Island and viewed Melville Island across McClure Strait after his ship was trapped in ice for three winters.

When did climate change make the Northwest Passage open to ships without an icebreaker?

On the 21st of August 2007, satellite images showed the passage open to ships without needing an icebreaker. This marked the first time since records began in 1972 that the waterway was clear.

What is the legal status of the Northwest Passage between Canada and the United States?

The Canadian government classifies these waters as internal waters under the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea. The United States claims the waters are an international strait where foreign vessels have the right of transit passage without permission.

Which species migrated into the Arctic Ocean due to reduced sea ice in 2010?

Gray whales returned to Atlantic waters after being hunted to extinction there in the 18th century. Two bowhead whales from West Greenland and Alaska entered the passage from opposite directions in August 2010.

How many distinct routes exist through the Canadian Arctic Archipelago connecting the oceans?

Five to seven distinct routes exist through these islands though not all suit large vessels. Some paths like the Fury and Hecla Strait remain closed by ice most years while others such as Peel Sound run south between Somerset Island and Prince of Wales Island.