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— CH. 1 · A PENINSULA DIVIDED BY WATER —

Guérande

~4 min read · Ch. 1 of 7
7 sections
  • The Guérande Peninsula stretches from the Atlantic Ocean to the Brière Regional Nature Reserve. It sits between two contrasting landscapes known as Pays Blanc and Pays Noir. The white land refers to the salt marshes that cover much of the area. The black land describes the peat bog of the Brière wetlands. This unique geography places the town at a crossroads for trade and travel since ancient times. Waterways like the river Vilaine and the Loire estuary surround the peninsula on three sides. Neighboring towns such as Saint-Nazaire, Nantes, and Vannes lie just beyond these borders. The INSEE classified Guérande as an urban district in 1999 within a larger urban area of nine communes.

  • About half of the remaining megalithic monuments in the Département Loire-Atlantique are located on this peninsula. These structures date from around 5200 BC to 2200 BC during the Neolithic period. At the end of the Iron Age, the Veneti tribe occupied the northern part of the land. They used the river Vilaine as their frontier boundary. In 56 BC, Julius Caesar defeated the Veneti and sold many into slavery after they double-crossed him. Further south lived the Namnetes tribe whose territory extended to the Loire river. These seaboard people increased their fortunes by siding with Rome. Greek traders also navigated the Atlantic Ocean waters near these tribal lands. Artifacts from the Gallo-Roman age demonstrate that many groups called this place home over centuries.

  • In 1343 Breton-French troops led by Luis de la Cerda captured the town during the Breton War of Succession. The former admiral used Spanish and Genoese auxiliaries to attack from all sides without giving quarter to inhabitants. Approximately 8000 inhabitants were massacred in streets or burned inside homes and churches. Five churches were desecrated and set ablaze during the frenzied plunder. Charles of Blois was not impressed when Luis exceeded his command and ordered twenty-four principal culprits hanged on the spot. Jean of Montfort demanded better protection for the town soon after. Work started immediately and continued for more than a century. The ramparts include ten towers and four doors connected by a curtain wall stretching 1434 meters. The main gate known as Porte Saint-Michel dates from the 15th century. Francis II, Duke of Brittany inaugurated the completed walls only months before his death in 1488.

  • Peace was finally concluded before the high altar of Saint Aubin on Holy Saturday in 1365. This first Treaty of Guérande saw Joanna of Penthièvre abdicate her disputed claims to the Dukedom. John V of the House of Montfort received the title instead. A modified form of Salic law was introduced in Brittany as a result of this agreement. The second Treaty of Guérande signed in 1381 established neutrality between Brittany and France during Anglo-French conflict. It was accorded between Duke John V and King Charles VI of France. These documents were written within the very walls that had been built to protect against such wars. The Collegiate Church where these events occurred became a symbol of peace after suffering damage during earlier battles. Various building projects succeeded one another until the 18th century improving features like Baroque altarpieces and stalls.

  • The salterns cover about 1700 hectares of salt water swamps. Current marshes began before the 9th century and lasted for several centuries. Around 1500 the marshes reached 80% of their current surface area. Salt workers collect approximately 15,000 tons of cooking salt each year. They also produce around 300 tons of fleur de sel or flower of salt annually. Channels feed sea water into reservoirs using tides from the Atlantic Ocean. Salty water evaporates in different dams leaving only centimeters of liquid behind. The final step allows salt to crystallize producing both coarse and fine varieties. Today around 250 workers live on the salt marshes under a French Label rouge cooperative. Competition from salt mines and lower consumption caused decline starting in the mid-19th century. Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte taxed the salt which accelerated this economic downturn.

  • Fighting took place around Guérande during June and July 1815 between Chouans and government forces. The 65th Infantry Regiment defended the town with 150 men entrenched behind city walls. They pushed back royalist attackers without much difficulty during the Chouannerie uprising. Guerande was part of the Saint-Nazaire pocket during 1944 and 1945 in World War II. The region remained occupied until the end of the conflict. In 2008 only 2.02% of children attended bilingual schools teaching Breton language alongside French. Twin towns include Almagro in Spain, Castro Marim in Portugal, Dinkelsbühl in Germany, and Dolgellau in Wales. These connections reflect international relationships formed over centuries of shared history and cultural exchange.

  • The Celtic festival occurs every early August crossing multiple origins and styles of dance music. Traditional singing tales blend authentic culture forms from various regions. The Medieval festival happens each May taking the town back to fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. An intramural market and medieval fair fill the streets with encampments and taverns. Equestrian events live music theater juggling and children's entertainment draw crowds. More than 500 volunteers dress in period costumes for a grand parade on Sunday morning. Since 2004 the medieval town has been a member of a national network of 120 towns. This group is called Villes et Pays d'Art et d'Histoire recognizing art and historical significance. The ramparts remain one of the best preserved examples in France today.

Common questions

Where is the Guérande Peninsula located in France?

The Guérande Peninsula stretches from the Atlantic Ocean to the Brière Regional Nature Reserve. It sits between two contrasting landscapes known as Pays Blanc and Pays Noir.

When did Julius Caesar defeat the Veneti tribe on the Guérande Peninsula?

Julius Caesar defeated the Veneti tribe in 56 BC after they double-crossed him. The Veneti had used the river Vilaine as their frontier boundary before this event.

How many inhabitants were massacred during the capture of Guérande by Luis de la Cerda?

Approximately 8000 inhabitants were massacred in streets or burned inside homes and churches when Breton-French troops captured the town in 1343. Five churches were desecrated and set ablaze during the frenzied plunder.

What are the dimensions and features of the ramparts surrounding Guérande?

The ramparts include ten towers and four doors connected by a curtain wall stretching 1434 meters. Work started immediately after Jean of Montfort demanded better protection for the town and continued for more than a century.

How much salt do workers produce annually in the Guérande salterns?

Salt workers collect approximately 15,000 tons of cooking salt each year from the marshes covering about 1700 hectares. They also produce around 300 tons of fleur de sel or flower of salt annually.