Exfoliation (cosmetology)
The word exfoliation comes from the Latin term meaning to strip off leaves. Ancient Egyptians practiced this removal of surface skin cells and built-up dirt as early as recorded history allows. They used a combination of animal oils, alabaster, salt, and sour milk to improve skin quality. This practice spread across Asia during the Qing Dynasty between 1644 and 1912. Greek, Roman, Turkish, Indian, and Hungarian peoples also developed their own chemical techniques over centuries. Tilbury Fox developed phenol peeling in 1871 to lessen the appearance of freckles. That method increased in popularity after its initial creation.
Loofahs are shower accessories commonly used for cleaning and exfoliating the skin. These tools derive their name from the tropical gourd called luffa within the cucumber family. As the plant matures, its fibers dry out to form spongy material after seeds are removed. Pumice is an igneous rock composed of solidified lava that rapidly cools with gas bubbles trapped inside. People use pumice stones on calluses or corns found on feet to remove dead skin cells. Microbead scrubs contain small plastic spheres acting as exfoliating components when scrubbed against skin. These beads are commonly made from polyethylene terephthalate but can be other plastic materials too. Exfoliation nets are nylon mesh nets native to Ghana and common in West African countries.
Alpha-hydroxy acids include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and citric acid. Beta hydroxy acids feature salicylic acid as a primary component in many formulations. Polyhydroxy acids consist of lactobionic acid, gluconolactone, and galactose. Enzymes like trypsin or collagenase also function as chemical exfoliants. These chemicals weaken cell adhesion allowing them to ease away from the surface. Only alpha-hydroxyl acids and beta hydroxyl acids appear on the market for daily use. AHAs clear the outer layer while BHAs penetrate and clean from within. Continental European beauty spas consider wine-producing grapes to have exfoliating properties used in vinotherapy. Chemical depilatory products such as Nair contain calcium hydroxide and thioglycolic acid.
Carbon dioxide lasers and erbium lasers treat flaws on the skin surface through ablative resurfacing. This process removes the top outer layer while heating the underlying skin layer simultaneously. The heat encourages collagen growth improving texture and tightness of the skin. Fractional versions leave minimal untreated tissue providing quicker healing time and fewer side effects. Dermabrasion uses a rapidly rotating device to remove the outermost facial skin layer. Anesthetics numb the skin before this procedure begins depending on treatment extent. Redness swelling itching pain acne infection discoloration and scarring remain risks associated with these methods. Skin treated with dermabrasion often stays sensitive with splotches of redness for weeks following.
Dermatologists state chemical or manual exfoliation is not medically necessary since dead cells exfoliate naturally. Excessive artificial exfoliation can break the skin's barrier against microorganisms leading to infection. Artificial methods may exacerbate dry flaky skin needing moisturization for repair instead. Initial redness appears near the end of chemical peels as colors vary from bright white to grey. Chemical depilatory products function as chemical exfoliants but only partially destroy hair below the skin. Waxing plucks hair out every two to eight weeks without fully substituting an exfoliation regimen. Wet shaving glides a brush vigorously across the face removing dead skin cells simultaneously.
Microbead particles used in mechanical exfoliation measure less than 1 mm in size. These tiny spheres cannot be caught by sewage works releasing large amounts into the environment. Damage occurs to marine ecosystems when these plastic beads enter water systems. Illinois became the first American state to ban microbead use in June 2014. Cosmetics manufacturers including L'Oreal Johnson & Johnson and Colgate agreed to use more natural ingredients. The significant environmental harm caused by microplastic beads led to government bans worldwide. Plastic beads act as alternatives for natural eco-friendly agents like pumice or walnut husks.
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Common questions
What is the origin of the word exfoliation in cosmetology?
The word exfoliation comes from the Latin term meaning to strip off leaves. Ancient Egyptians practiced this removal of surface skin cells and built-up dirt as early as recorded history allows.
When did Tilbury Fox develop phenol peeling for freckles?
Tilbury Fox developed phenol peeling in 1871 to lessen the appearance of freckles. That method increased in popularity after its initial creation.
Which state became the first American state to ban microbead use in June 2014?
Illinois became the first American state to ban microbead use in June 2014. Microbead particles used in mechanical exfoliation measure less than 1 mm in size and cannot be caught by sewage works releasing large amounts into the environment.
How do alpha-hydroxy acids differ from beta hydroxyl acids on the market?
Only alpha-hydroxyl acids and beta hydroxyl acids appear on the market for daily use. AHAs clear the outer layer while BHAs penetrate and clean from within.