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— CH. 1 · ORIGINS AND EARLY HISTORY —

County Durham

~6 min read · Ch. 1 of 6
6 sections
  • In 995 CE, monks carrying the relics of St Cuthbert settled at a place called Dunholm. They chose this site because the River Wear formed a horseshoe-like defensive curve around it. The community had been moving their saint's remains for decades to keep them safe from Viking raiders who swept through northern England. Before this settlement, the land sat on the border between Roman Britain and Anglo-Saxon kingdoms. Survivals of that Roman era remain visible today at Binchester Fort. Ida founded the kingdom of Bernicia around 547 CE after spotting the defensive potential of Bamburgh rock. His grandson Aethelfrith merged Bernicia with Deira in 604 CE to create Northumbria. This realm stretched from the Humber to the Forth before factional fighting weakened it. The Vikings claimed the Deiran part of the kingdom in 867 as Jórvík. The lands north of the Tees remained outside English governmental frontiers until the House of Wessex absorbed York in 954. The bishops gradually acquired lands that would become County Durham starting in 1018 when Aldhun procured territory including Norton and Stockton. King Canute gave Staindrop to the Bishops in 1031. The area eventually gained status as a liberty known as the Liberty of Haliwerfolc.

  • By the fourteenth century, Durham was accepted as a private shire where the bishop appointed his own sheriff. In 1293, the bishop argued successfully before parliament that the sheriff of Northumberland had no authority within the county. Matters regarding the bishopric came to a head when he failed to attend quo warranto proceedings held by Northumberland justices. From 1075, the Bishop of Durham became a Prince-Bishop with rights to raise an army and mint coins. He could govern as a virtually autonomous ruler while protecting England's northern frontier. Ten palatinate barons existed in the 12th century, including the Hyltons of Hylton Castle and the Bulmers of Brancepeth. Edward I's quo warranto proceedings of 1293 showed twelve lords enjoying franchises under the bishop. Repeated Crown efforts to check these powers culminated in 1536 with the Jurisdiction in Liberties Act 1535. This act deprived the bishop of power to pardon offences or appoint judicial officers. Indictments were to run in the name of the king rather than the bishop. Restrictions on chancery powers were imposed in 1596. The palatinate was formally abolished in 1646 but revived after the Restoration. It continued with much the same power until the 5th of July 1836 when the Durham County Palatine Act vested jurisdiction in the Crown.

  • County Durham became heavily industrialised in the nineteenth century when many collieries opened on the coalfield. The Stockton and Darlington Railway, the world's first public railway to use steam locomotives, opened in 1825. Tens of thousands of people migrated from Cornwall between 1815 and the outbreak of the First World War. Miners' cottages in east Durham called Greenhill were known locally as Cornwall because of this migration. Easington Colliery still has a Cornish Street today. Coal mining had a profound effect on trade unionism, public health, and housing. A substantial number of colliery villages were built throughout the county to house the growing workforce. In 1841 there were 15,202 people employed in coal mining. This rose to a peak of 157,837 in 1921. Most collieries closed during the last quarter of the twentieth century. The 1984, 1985 United Kingdom miners' strike involved many miners across the county. Today no deep-coal mines exist in the county. The culture of coal mining found expression in the Durham Miners' Gala which was first held in 1871. Numbers attending decreased over the period between the end of the strike and the 21st century but have grown significantly again recently.

  • The ceremonial county is officially named Durham according to the Lieutenancies Act 1997. It borders Northumberland and Tyne and Wear to the north, the North Sea to the east, North Yorkshire to the south, and Cumbria to the west. For local government purposes the county comprises unitary authority areas including County Durham, Darlington, Hartlepool, and part of Stockton-on-Tees. Durham County Council is part of the North East Combined Authority while councils of other three areas are part of Tees Valley Combined Authority. The historic boundaries stretched from rivers Tyne to Tees until the Local Government Act 1972. From 1974 until 1996, the ceremonial county was split into eight districts including Chester-le-Street, Derwentside, City of Durham, Easington, Sedgefield, Teesdale, Wear Valley, and Darlington. On the 1st of April 1996, the county of Cleveland was abolished with its boroughs becoming part of the ceremonial county. The non-metropolitan county was reconstituted on the 1st of April 2009 when Durham County Council merged with seven local facility-providing districts. It had 126 councillors but since the 2025 local elections this was reduced to 98. The ceremonial county remained under same borders as the historic county until 1968 when the County Borough of Teesside formed.

  • The west of the county contains part of the North Pennines uplands designated a national landscape. Hills are source of rivers Tees and Wear which flow east and form valleys of Teesdale and Weardale respectively. The highest point of historic County Durham is trig point Burnhope Seat at height between Weardale and Teesdale on border with historic Cumberland in far west. Local government reorganisation of 1974 placed higher Mickle Fell south of Teesdale within administrative borders of Durham where it remains within ceremonial county. Two main dales of County Durham and surrounding fells exceed height making them excellent hillwalking country. Scenery is rugged and remote with extensive areas of tussock grass and blanket peat bog in west. Heather moorland covers lower slopes descending to east. East of county is flatter where two rivers meander through it. Tees forms boundary with North Yorkshire in lower reaches while Wear exits county near Chester-le-Street in north-east. County coast characterised by tall limestone and dolomite cliffs and is site of special scientific interest.

  • In 1930, Spennymoor Settlement opened as Pitman's Academy funded by Pilgrim Trust. It aimed to encourage neighbourliness during Great Depression when unemployment was widespread. Settlement provided educational work, social service, hope, and outlet for creativity including paintings, sewing, plays, woodwork and sculptures. Several members won adult scholarships at Oxford University. Former members include artists Norman Cornish and Tom McGuinness, writer Sid Chaplin, and journalist Arnold Hadwin. In 2017, Mining Art Gallery opened in Bishop Auckland building that was once a bank. Part of Auckland Project, gallery includes work from County Durham and beyond including Robert Olley. Gemini Collection includes 420 pieces of mining art donated by Dr Robert McManners and Gillian Wales. In 2018, Arts Council funded Stories of Sanctuary project in city of Durham. Project assists people living in city to share stories about seeking sanctuary through photography, poetry and music. Music produced includes contributions from singer-songwriter Sam Slatcher and viola player Raghad Haddad from National Syrian Orchestra. As with neighbouring Northumberland, County Durham has rich heritage of Northumbrian music dating back from Golden Age of 7th and 8th centuries. Bede made references to harp-playing and abundant archaeological evidence found of wooden flutes, bone flutes, panpipes, drums and lyres.

Common questions

When did monks carrying the relics of St Cuthbert settle at Dunholm in County Durham?

Monks carrying the relics of St Cuthbert settled at a place called Dunholm in 995 CE. They chose this site because the River Wear formed a horseshoe-like defensive curve around it.

What was the status of County Durham before the Jurisdiction in Liberties Act 1535?

County Durham existed as a private shire where the bishop appointed his own sheriff and governed with virtually autonomous power from 1075 until 1536. The Jurisdiction in Liberties Act 1535 deprived the bishop of power to pardon offences or appoint judicial officers.

How many people were employed in coal mining in County Durham during its peak year?

The number of people employed in coal mining rose to a peak of 157,837 in 1921. Most collieries closed during the last quarter of the twentieth century leaving no deep-coal mines in the county today.

Which rivers form the boundaries of historic County Durham according to the Local Government Act 1972?

The historic boundaries stretched from rivers Tyne to Tees until the Local Government Act 1972. The ceremonial county borders Northumberland and Tyne and Wear to the north and Cumbria to the west.

When did Spennymoor Settlement open as Pitman's Academy funded by Pilgrim Trust?

Spennymoor Settlement opened as Pitman's Academy in 1930 funded by Pilgrim Trust. It aimed to encourage neighbourliness during Great Depression when unemployment was widespread.