1775–1795 in Western fashion
In 1750, the consumer revolution brought about cheaper copies of fashionable styles. This shift allowed members of all classes to partake in fashionable dress for the first time. Prior to this point, guild-controlled systems made clothing expensive and difficult to acquire for most people. Sumptuary laws restricted what individuals could wear based on their social standing. The concept of fashion as a tool for self-expression emerged during these two decades between 1775 and 1795. Enlightenment philosophers promoted rationalistic or classical ideals that influenced how people dressed. Dror Wahrman notes that modern ideals of selfhood began shaping personal appearance during this era. Cissie Fairchilds argues that fashion became a means of expressing individual identity rather than just group status. Peter McNeil observes that the widespread embrace of Enlightenment philosophes changed the entire landscape of clothing choices. These changes marked the beginning of modern fashion as we understand it today.
Marie Antoinette rebelled against court life structure starting in the 1780s. She abolished her morning toilette and escaped to the Petit Trianon with increasing frequency. Her new style involved dressing in peasant clothing and straw hats within her hameau. Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun painted Marie Antoinette wearing a chemise à la Reine in 1783. This portrait caused a major scandal because the queen looked like she wore only undergarments. The gaulle consisted of thin layers of white muslin loosely draped around the body. Critics accused her of importing foreign fabrics and crippling the French silk industry. The sexual nature of the gaulle undermined notions of royal status and power. Despite returning to traditional court styles after turning thirty, the chemise dress remained popular. The simplicity of the style influenced the transition into neoclassical fashions of the late 1790s. Aileen Ribeiro documents how this controversial garment became a custom across France and abroad.
By 1780, wide panniers disappeared for all but the most formal court functions. False rumps or hip-pads were worn temporarily during the transition period. Skirts opened in front to show petticoats worn beneath low-necked gowns called robes. The robe à l'anglaise featured back pleats sewn in place to fit closely to the body. Elaborate draping à la polonaise became fashionable by the mid-1770s with swags pulled up through loops. Front-wrapping thigh-length shortgowns or bedgowns remained fashionable as morning wear at home. By 1790, skirts were still somewhat full but no longer pushed out in any particular direction. The pouter-pigeon front came into style with many layers of cloth pinned over the bodice. Waistlines began raising slightly by 1795, preparing for empire silhouette development. Strapless stays cut high at the armpit encouraged women to stand with shoulders slightly back. Poor and middle-class women could work comfortably in these garments while offering back support. Free-hanging pockets tied around waist accessed through pocket slits in side-seams. Woolen or quilted waistcoats provided warmth under gowns in cold climates.
Benjamin Franklin caused a sensation by appearing at the French court in his own hair rather than wearing a wig. Plain undress styles adopted in Boston and Philadelphia represented conscious reactions to European court excesses. Coats exhibited tighter, narrower cuts by the 1770s compared to earlier periods. Toward the 1780s, coat skirts began cutting away in curves from front waist. Waistcoats gradually shortened until they reached waist length and cut straight across. A frock coat derived from traditional working-class coats became fashionable for hunting and country pursuits. Sober natural colors replaced elaborately embroidered silks and velvets characteristic of full dress. Powdered wigs tied in queues were worn for formal occasions but largely abandoned during the French Revolution. The long pant hemmed near ankles displaced knee-length breeches culottes that marked aristocratic classes. Working-class men had worn long pants throughout their history before this period. The rejection of culottes became a symbol of working class resentment against Ancien Régime. Édouard Jean Baptiste Milhaud appeared as deputy of Convention in uniform representing People to Armies. These changes reflected how male fashion mirrored female trends becoming less rigid and more suitable for movement.
Toddlers wore washable dresses called frocks made of linen or cotton in late 18th century. British and American boys after age three began wearing rather short pantaloons and short jackets. Very young boys received skeleton suits which gave first real alternative to children's dresses. These garments became fashionable across Europe following their introduction. Queen Charlotte of Portugal appeared as child in portraits showing evolving styles. Marie Antoinette and her children appeared in 1785, 1786 portrait showing change to loose ankle-length skirts for little girls. Her son wore light blue skeleton suit in family portrait. Working-class people often wore same garments as fashionable people but owned fewer clothes. Shirts, waistcoats, coats and breeches served men while shifts petticoats and dresses served women. Smock-frocks were regional style for men especially shepherds in England. Country women wore short hooded cloaks most often red in color. Men who worked with horses wore boots instead of shoes during this period. A maid poured soup from pot wearing caraco jacket over petticoat together with protective apron. Everyday day dress in England reflected fashionable styles through large buttons on double-breasted waistcoat.
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Common questions
What caused the consumer revolution in 1750 Western fashion?
The consumer revolution brought about cheaper copies of fashionable styles. This shift allowed members of all classes to partake in fashionable dress for the first time.
Why did Marie Antoinette wear a chemise à la Reine in 1783?
Marie Antoinette rebelled against court life structure starting in the 1780s and adopted peasant clothing within her hameau. The portrait by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun showed the queen wearing thin layers of white muslin loosely draped around the body which caused a major scandal.
How did women's skirts change between 1780 and 1795 in Western fashion?
By 1780 wide panniers disappeared for all but the most formal court functions. By 1790 skirts were still somewhat full but no longer pushed out in any particular direction while waistlines began raising slightly by 1795 preparing for empire silhouette development.
When did powdered wigs become largely abandoned during the French Revolution?
Powdered wigs tied in queues were worn for formal occasions but largely abandoned during the French Revolution. Long pant hemmed near ankles displaced knee-length breeches culottes that marked aristocratic classes toward the end of this period.
What garments did toddlers wear in late 18th century Western fashion?
Toddlers wore washable dresses called frocks made of linen or cotton in late 18th century. Very young boys received skeleton suits which gave first real alternative to children's dresses and became fashionable across Europe following their introduction.