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Wool: the story on HearLore | HearLore
Wool
Wool ignites at a higher temperature than cotton and some synthetic fibers, yet it does not melt or drip when exposed to flame. Instead, it forms a char that is insulating and self-extinguishing, contributing less to toxic gases and smoke than other flooring products. This unique chemical composition, consisting primarily of protein with a small percentage of lipids, makes it chemically distinct from plant-based cellulose fibers like cotton. The proteinaceous nature of wool requires special detergents for cleaning because standard laundry detergents often contain enzymes designed to digest protein, which would damage the fiber. This inherent fire resistance has led to wool being specified for high safety environments, including carpets for trains and aircraft, and garments for firefighters and soldiers who face the likelihood of fire. The fiber's ability to absorb almost one-third of its own weight in water without feeling wet further distinguishes it from other textiles, creating a material that is both hydrophobic on the exterior and hygroscopic on the interior.
The Biology of the Fleece
Wool is produced by follicles, small cells located in the skin that push down into the dermis as the fibers grow. These follicles are classified as either primary or secondary, with primary follicles producing three types of fiber: kemp, medullated fibers, and true wool fibers, while secondary follicles produce only true wool fibers. The defining characteristic of wool is its crimp, the strong natural wave present in each fiber, which corresponds to the fineness of the wool. A fine wool like Merino may have up to 40 crimps per centimeter, whereas coarser wool like karakul may have less than one. This crimp, along with the microscopic barbs on the surface of the fibers, allows the wool to bind together during the felting process, where mechanical agitation causes the barbs to hook and bond. The amount of kemp, the coarse hair part of the fleece, varies from breed to breed, making some fleeces more desirable for spinning or felting than others. The relative amounts of kemp to wool determine the quality and utility of the fleece, influencing whether it is used for fine garments or durable tweed cloth.
The Medieval Engine of Commerce
In the 13th century, the wool trade became the economic engine of the Low Countries and central Italy, driving the development of complex financial systems. The Florentine wool guild, known as the Arte della Lana, sent imported English wool to the San Martino convent for processing, while Italian wool from Abruzzo and Spanish merino wools were processed at Garbo workshops. By the end of the 14th century, Italy predominated in the trade, but by the 16th century, Italian wool exports to the Levant had declined, eventually replaced by silk production. The value of exports of English raw wool rivaled the 15th-century sheepwalks of Castile, serving as a significant source of income to the English crown, which imposed an export tax called the Great Custom in 1275. The importance of wool to the English economy was so profound that since the 14th century, the presiding officer of the House of Lords has sat on the Woolsack, a chair stuffed with wool. Economies of scale were instituted in Cistercian houses, which accumulated great tracts of land during the 12th and early 13th centuries, shipping raw wool baled from North Sea ports to textile cities in Flanders like Ypres and Ghent.
What is the chemical composition of wool and how does it differ from cotton?
Wool consists primarily of protein with a small percentage of lipids, making it chemically distinct from plant-based cellulose fibers like cotton. This proteinaceous nature requires special detergents for cleaning because standard laundry detergents often contain enzymes designed to digest protein, which would damage the fiber.
When did the wool trade become the economic engine of the Low Countries and central Italy?
The wool trade became the economic engine of the Low Countries and central Italy in the 13th century, driving the development of complex financial systems. By the end of the 14th century, Italy predominated in the trade, but by the 16th century, Italian wool exports to the Levant had declined, eventually replaced by silk production.
How much water can wool absorb without feeling wet and what is the process called?
Wool can absorb almost one-third of its own weight in water without feeling wet, creating a material that is both hydrophobic on the exterior and hygroscopic on the interior. This unique ability distinguishes it from other textiles and allows it to function effectively in various environmental conditions.
What was the price of the finest bale of wool ever auctioned in June 2008?
The finest bale of wool ever auctioned sold for a seasonal record of AU$2690 per kilo during June 2008, produced by the Hillcreston Pinehill Partnership and measuring 11.6 microns. This bale realized $247,480 and was exported to India.
How many layers of wool fabric are required to match the bullet resistance of 36 layers of Kevlar?
Wool increased friction in a vest with 28 to 30 layers of fabric to provide the same level of bullet resistance as 36 layers of Kevlar alone. Researchers at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology discovered this blend was lighter, cheaper, and worked better in damp conditions than Kevlar alone.
Sheep shearing is the process in which a worker, known as a shearer, cuts off the woollen fleece of a sheep, after which wool-classers separate the wool into four main categories: fleece, broken, bellies, and locks. Raw wool, also known as greasy wool or wool in the grease, contains a high level of valuable lanolin, dead skin, sweat residue, pesticides, and vegetable matter. Before the wool can be used for commercial purposes, it must be scoured, a process of cleaning the greasy wool that may range from a simple bath in warm water to a complex industrial process using detergent and alkali. In north west England, special potash pits were constructed to produce potash used in the manufacture of a soft soap for scouring locally produced white wool. Vegetable matter in commercial wool is often removed by chemical carbonization, while in less-processed wools, vegetable matter may be removed by hand, leaving some lanolin intact to create water-resistant mittens or sweaters like those of the Aran Island fishermen.
The Race for the Finest Thread
The finest and most valuable wool comes from Merino hoggets, with fibers typically measuring between 12 and 24 microns in diameter. In December 2004, a bale of the then world's finest wool, averaging 11.8 microns, sold for AU$3,000 per kilogram at auction in Melbourne, realizing a total of A$279,000. The finest bale of wool ever auctioned was sold for a seasonal record of AU$2690 per kilo during June 2008, produced by the Hillcreston Pinehill Partnership and measuring 11.6 microns. This bale realized $247,480 and was exported to India. In 2007, a new wool suit was developed and sold in Japan which can be washed in the shower, drying off ready to wear within hours with no ironing required. The Ermenegildo Zegna Vellus Aureum Trophy, launched in 2002, awards the winning fleece weight with the same weight in gold as a prize, with New Zealand winning the trophy for the first time in April 2008 with a fleece that measured 10.8 microns.
The Industrial Revolution and Global Shifts
The Industrial Revolution introduced mass-production technology into wool- and wool-cloth-manufacturing, transforming the industry from cottage-based systems to centralized factories. Before this era, the putting-out system, or cottage industry, prevailed, where entrepreneurs provided raw materials and advances to artisans who were bound by written contracts to specified terms. This system effectively bypassed guild restrictions and was perpetuated in the production of Harris tweeds. Australia's colonial economy came to depend on sheep-raising, and the Australian wool trade eventually overtook that of the Germans by 1845, furnishing wool for Bradford, which developed as the heart of industrialized woolens production. By the 16th century, a unified Spain allowed export of merino lambs only with royal permission, and the German wool-market, based on sheep of Spanish origin, did not overtake British wool until comparatively late. The collapse in the price of wool began in late 1966 with a 40% drop, leading to sharply reduced production and the movement of resources into the production of other commodities, such as meat.
The Modern Paradox of Wool
Global wool production is about 1.2 billion kilograms per year, of which 60% goes into apparel, yet wool comprises only around 3% of the global textile market. Australia is a leading producer of wool, mostly from Merino sheep, but has been eclipsed by China in terms of total weight. New Zealand is the third-largest producer of wool and the largest producer of crossbred wool, while breeds such as Lincoln, Romney, Drysdale, and Elliotdale produce coarser fibers used for making carpets. Organic wool has gained in popularity, limited in supply and much of it coming from New Zealand and Australia, often carrying a higher price. Animal rights groups have noted issues with the production of wool, such as mulesing, while researchers at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology have discovered a blend of wool and Kevlar that was lighter, cheaper, and worked better in damp conditions than Kevlar alone. Wool increased friction in a vest with 28 to 30 layers of fabric to provide the same level of bullet resistance as 36 layers of Kevlar alone.
The Cultural Legacy of the Fleece
Wool has been used for blankets, suits, horse rugs, saddle cloths, carpeting, insulation, and upholstery, as well as to create other forms of art such as wet and needle felting. Wool felt covers piano hammers and is used to absorb odors and noise in heavy machinery and stereo speakers. Ancient Greeks lined their helmets with felt, and Roman legionnaires used breastplates made of wool felt. Wool as well as cotton has also been traditionally used for cloth diapers, with wool fiber exteriors being hydrophobic and the interior hygroscopic, making a wool garment suitable cover for a wet diaper by inhibiting wicking. Initial studies of woollen underwear have found it prevented heat and sweat rashes because it more readily absorbs the moisture than other fibers. As an animal protein, wool can be used as a soil fertilizer, being a slow-release source of nitrogen. The New England Merino Field days display local studs, wool, and sheep, while the Annual Wool Fashion Awards showcase the use of Merino wool by fashion designers, encouraging young and established fashion designers to display their talents.