Wool
Wool is an animal fiber consisting of protein and a small percentage of lipids. This chemical makeup distinguishes it from cotton, which relies on cellulose. Silk shares wool's proteinaceous nature, requiring special detergents for cleaning. Standard laundry enzymes designed for plant fibers can digest the protein in wool. Wool grows from follicles located within the epidermis layer of sheep skin. These follicles extend down into the dermis as the fibers develop. Primary follicles produce three distinct types of fiber: kemp, medullated fibers, and true wool fibers. Secondary follicles generate only true wool fibers. The natural wave pattern known as crimp defines the quality of each strand. A fine Merino wool may contain up to 40 crimps per centimeter. Coarser karakul wool might have less than one crimp per inch. Hair lacks this scale structure and possesses no crimp or elasticity. The microscopic barbs on the surface hook together during mechanical agitation. This process creates felting when water and soap are applied to damp wool. Temperature shock while wet accelerates the bonding of these fibers. Wool absorbs almost one-third of its own weight in moisture without feeling hollow. It ignites at higher temperatures than cotton or many synthetic alternatives. The material forms a char that is self-extinguishing rather than melting or dripping.
Archaeological evidence suggests selection for woolly sheep began around 6000 BC in Iran. The oldest known European wool textile was preserved in a Danish bog. Pliny the Elder recorded Tarentum's reputation for producing superior fleeces requiring special care. Medieval Champagne fairs revolved around small centers like Provins producing cloth. These networks allowed Provins woolens to reach Naples, Sicily, Cyprus, and Constantinople. By the 13th century, the wool trade became the economic engine of central Italy. The Florentine wool guild Arte della Lana sent imported English wool to San Martino convents for processing. Italian wool from Abruzzo and Spanish merino wools were processed at Garbo workshops. In the 15th century, Pisa established a factory exporting cloths to the Crimea for Russian furs. English raw wool exports rivaled the 15th-century sheepwalks of Castile as income sources. The English crown imposed an export tax called the Great Custom in 1275. Presiding officers of the House of Lords sit on a Woolsack stuffed with wool since the 14th century. Cistercian houses accumulated land during the 12th and early 13th centuries to build economies of scale. Raw wool shipped from North Sea ports to Flanders cities like Ypres and Ghent. At the time of the Black Death between 1346 and 1353, English textile industries consumed about 10% of production. Smuggling known as owling was punishable by cutting off a hand before the Restoration of 1660. Fine English woolens began competing with silks internationally after 1699 when the Crown forbade American colonies trading elsewhere.
Global wool production reaches approximately 1.1 billion kilograms annually according to recent data. Australia remains a leading producer though China has eclipsed it in total weight. New Zealand holds the third-largest position globally while producing the most crossbred wool. Lincoln, Romney, Drysdale, and Elliotdale breeds generate coarser fibers for carpets. Texas, New Mexico, and Colorado maintain large commercial flocks using Rambouillet sheep. Organic wool has gained popularity but remains limited in supply from New Zealand and Australia. About 85% of wool sold in Australia goes through open cry auctions. The British Wool Marketing Board operates a central system for UK fleece returns. Less than half of New Zealand's wool is auctioned while 45% sells directly to private buyers. US producers market wool via private or cooperative warehouses where pools are common. Objective measurement test results make imported apparel wool preferred at central markets. Merino wool typically measures between 12 and 24 microns in diameter. Ultrafine Merino grades fall under 15.5 microns while Superfine ranges from 15.6 to 18.5 microns. Fine Merino spans 18.6 to 20 microns with Medium Merino reaching 20.1 to 23 microns. Strong Merino exceeds 23 microns in diameter. Any wool finer than 25 microns can be used for garments. Coarser grades serve outerwear or rugs instead. The finest Australian and New Zealand Merino wools carry the 1PP industry benchmark. This classification requires 16.9 microns or finer based on parameters set by the Australian Wool Exchange Council. Only dozens of millions of bales qualify as 1PP annually.
Superwash technology first appeared in the early 1970s to create machine-washable wool. An acid bath removes scales from the fiber or a polymer coating prevents attachment. This process yields longevity and durability surpassing many synthetic materials. A bale averaging 11.8 microns sold for AU$3,000 per kilogram at Melbourne auctions in December 2004. That fleece tested with an average yield of 74.5% and measured 40 newtons per kilotex strength. The result totaled AU$279,000 for that single bale. Another record sale occurred in June 2008 when Hillcreston Pinehill Partnership sold 11.6 micron wool for AU$2,690 per kilo. This bale realized $247,480 before export to India. A shower suit developed in Japan during 2007 allows cleaning without ironing. It dries ready to wear within hours using domestic showers. Researchers discovered a blend of wool and Kevlar lighter than pure Kevlar alone. Wool increased friction in vests requiring only 28 to 30 layers versus 36 layers of Kevlar. Organic farming practices have gained traction despite higher price points on finished goods. Environmental benefits exist compared to petroleum-based nylon or polypropylene carpets. Formaldehyde-free glues and natural binders enhance the eco-friendly profile of wool products.
Ermenegildo Zegna has offered awards for Australian wool producers since 1963. The first Ermenegildo Zegna Perpetual Trophy went to Tasmania for Superfine skirted Merino fleece. A national award called the Ermenegildo Zegna Trophy launched in 1980 for Extrafine production. By 2004 this became known as the Unprotected Wool Trophy while 1998 introduced the Protected version. The Vellus Aureum Trophy began in 2002 for wool measuring 13.9 microns or finer. Winners receive gold equal to their winning fleece weight. New Zealand won this trophy for the first time in April 2008 with 10.8 micron fleece. An ultrafine 10-micron fleece from Windradeen near Pyramul, New South Wales won in 2010. Loro Piana has awarded a cup since 2000 for the world's finest bale producing fabric for 50 suits. This prize goes to an Australian or New Zealand grower annually. The New England Merino Field days display local studs and sheep during January even-numbered years around Walcha. Armidale hosts Annual Wool Fashion Awards showcasing designer talents each March. May brings the New England Wool Expo featuring shearing competitions and yard dog trials. Bendigo holds the largest sheep and wool show globally every July with goats and alpacas. The Australian Fleece Competition at Bendigo represents the world's largest objective measurement contest. In 2008, 475 entries came from all states of Australia.
Common questions
What is wool made of chemically?
Wool is an animal fiber consisting of protein and a small percentage of lipids. This chemical makeup distinguishes it from cotton, which relies on cellulose.
When did selection for woolly sheep begin in Iran?
Archaeological evidence suggests selection for woolly sheep began around 6000 BC in Iran. The oldest known European wool textile was preserved in a Danish bog.
How many crimps per centimeter does fine Merino wool contain?
A fine Merino wool may contain up to 40 crimps per centimeter. Coarser karakul wool might have less than one crimp per inch.
Which year did the English crown impose the Great Custom export tax?
The English crown imposed an export tax called the Great Custom in 1275. Presiding officers of the House of Lords sit on a Woolsack stuffed with wool since the 14th century.
What micron range defines Superfine Merino wool grades?
Superfine Merino ranges from 15.6 to 18.5 microns while Ultrafine Merino grades fall under 15.5 microns. Fine Merino spans 18.6 to 20 microns with Medium Merino reaching 20.1 to 23 microns.
When did New Zealand win the Vellus Aureum Trophy for the first time?
New Zealand won this trophy for the first time in April 2008 with 10.8 micron fleece. An ultrafine 10-micron fleece from Windradeen near Pyramul, New South Wales won in 2010.