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— CH. 1 · ORIGINS AND ETYMOLOGY —

Wales

~6 min read · Ch. 1 of 7
7 sections
  • The name Wales derives from an Old English root that referred to the Gauls known to the Romans as Walha. Anglo-Saxon settlers used this term to describe Britons in particular, and the plural form evolved into the name for their territory. The modern Welsh people call themselves Cymry, a word meaning fellow-countrymen that likely came into use before the 7th century. This self-designation contrasts with the external label imposed by neighbors who named the land Wallia. Historical records show that coastal areas like Swansea, Fishguard, and Anglesey had Viking or Norse settlements while Saxons settled inland among the Welsh in places such as Presteigne. Archaeological evidence points to permanent settlement of the territory from the end of the last ice age onwards. Red Lady of Paviland remains one of the most impressive funerary monuments left by these first farmers. The Great Orme in North Wales became Britain's premier producer of copper during the Bronze Age, supplying key ores for smelting bronze.

  • Hywel ap Cadell formed the kingdom of Deheubarth from inheritances in Dyfed and Seisyllwg before gaining control of Gwynedd and Powys in 942. He codified Welsh law at an assembly held at Whitland around 930, creating a legal code that emphasized compensation payments to victims rather than punishment by rulers. Gruffydd ap Llywelyn subdued all opposition by 1057, becoming the only king to unite all of Wales and parts of England on the border. For about seven brief years between 1057 and his death in 1063, the whole of Wales recognized his kingship under a feat with neither precedent nor successor. Edward I of England completed the conquest of Wales in 1283 after over 200 years of war. The Statute of Rhuddlan ended Welsh independence the following year, dividing the territory between principality ruled by Edward and marches ruled by feudal marcher lords. Owain Glyndwr led the Welsh Revolt against English rule from 1400 to 1415, briefly re-establishing an independent Welsh state with its own national parliament. Henry VIII annexed the whole of Wales through the Laws in Wales Acts of 1535 and 1542, making Welsh people full citizens in the Kingdom of England.

  • At its peak production in 1913, nearly 233,000 men and women were employed in the South Wales coalfield mining 56 million tons of coal. Cardiff was once the largest coal-exporting port in the world, handling greater tonnage than either London or Liverpool for a few years before the First World War. Over 40 per cent of the male Welsh population worked in heavy industry during the 1920s. The Great Depression devastated both north and south Wales because of overwhelming dependence on coal and steel. From the mid-1970s, massive restructuring caused large numbers of jobs in heavy industry to disappear and be replaced eventually by new ones in light industry and services. In 2018, gross domestic product in Wales reached £75 billion, representing an increase of 3.3 per cent from 2017. GDP per head stood at £23,866 that year, which compared to Italy's £25,000 and Spain's £22,000. Since the Second World War, the service sector has come to account for the majority of jobs across the country.

  • Snowdon stands as the highest summit in Wales at 1,085 meters within Snowdonia where five mountains exceed 1,000 meters. The Brecon Beacons reach their highest point Pen y Fan at 886 meters while the Cambrian Mountains top out at Pumlumon with 735 meters. Over 50 islands lie off the Welsh mainland, with Anglesey being the largest in the north-west. The coastline stretches approximately 1,400 kilometers along the mean high water mark including mainland, Anglesey and Holyhead. In 1859 over 110 ships were destroyed off the coast of Wales in a hurricane that saw more than 800 lives lost across Britain. The greatest single loss occurred with the sinking of the Royal Charter off Anglesey where 459 people died. Red kites serve as one of the national symbols of Welsh wildlife and were voted the nation's favourite bird. More than 200 different species of birds have been seen at the RSPB reserve at Conwy including seasonal visitors like gannets, Manx shearwater, puffins, kittiwakes, shags and razorbills.

  • The Government of Wales Act 1998 created a devolved assembly called the National Assembly for Wales following devolution in 1997. Eight years later the Government of Wales Act 2006 reformed the assembly and allowed further powers to be granted more easily. A successful referendum in 2011 empowered the National Assembly to make laws known as Acts of the Assembly on all matters in devolved subject areas without requiring UK Parliament approval. In May 2020, the National Assembly was renamed Senedd Cymru or the Welsh Parliament commonly known as the Senedd. The Senedd has authority to draft and approve laws outside of the UK Parliamentary system to meet specific needs of Wales. Under powers approved by a referendum held in March 2011, it is empowered to pass primary legislation now known as an Act of Senedd Cymru regarding twenty subjects listed in the Government of Wales Act 2006 such as health and education. For local government purposes, Wales has been divided into 22 council areas since 1996 responsible for providing all local government services.

  • The proportion of the Welsh population able to speak the Welsh language fell from just under 50 per cent in 1901 to 43.5 per cent in 1911 and continued to drop to 18.9 per cent in 1981. According to the 2021 census, the Welsh-speaking population aged three or older reached 17.8 per cent representing 538,300 people while nearly three-quarters had no Welsh language skills. English is spoken by almost all people in Wales and serves as the main language in most of the country. Code-switching between languages is common throughout all parts of Wales though none of its various terms are recognized by professional linguists. Northern and western Wales retain many areas where Welsh is spoken as a first language by the majority of the population with English learned as a second language. The 2021 census showed that 93.8 per cent identified as White compared to 95.6 per cent in 2011 while 2.9 per cent identified as Asian, Asian Welsh or Asian British. Wrexham became Wales's newest and seventh city in September 2022 despite having only about 130,000 residents.

  • Four UNESCO World Heritage Sites exist within Wales including the Castles and Town Walls of King Edward I in Gwynedd, Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal, Blaenavon Industrial Landscape, and the Slate Landscape of Northwest Wales. The earliest surviving Welsh plays are two medieval miracle plays called Y Tri Brenin o Gwlen and Y Dioddefaint a'r Atgyfodiad dating back centuries before the 18th century. Male voice choirs emerged in the 19th century formed as tenor and bass sections of chapel choirs embracing popular secular hymns of the day. The annual National Eisteddfod serves as the country's main performance festival while the Llangollen International Eisteddfod provides opportunities for singers and musicians worldwide to perform. Traditional instruments include the telyn deires triple harp, fiddle, crwth bowed lyre and pibgorn hornpipe. In 1954 Dylan Thomas broadcast Under Milk Wood which remains one of his most famous works and one of the most innovative poems of his time. The Bard, painted by Thomas Jones in 1774, exemplifies landscape art that grew in popularity during the late 18th century when clients were found in larger Welsh towns.

Common questions

What is the origin of the name Wales?

The name Wales derives from an Old English root that referred to the Gauls known to the Romans as Walha. Anglo-Saxon settlers used this term to describe Britons in particular, and the plural form evolved into the name for their territory.

When did Edward I complete the conquest of Wales?

Edward I of England completed the conquest of Wales in 1283 after over 200 years of war. The Statute of Rhuddlan ended Welsh independence the following year, dividing the territory between principality ruled by Edward and marches ruled by feudal marcher lords.

How many people were employed in the South Wales coalfield at its peak production in 1913?

At its peak production in 1913, nearly 233,000 men and women were employed in the South Wales coalfield mining 56 million tons of coal. Cardiff was once the largest coal-exporting port in the world, handling greater tonnage than either London or Liverpool for a few years before the First World War.

Which mountain is the highest summit in Wales and what is its elevation?

Snowdon stands as the highest summit in Wales at 1,085 meters within Snowdonia where five mountains exceed 1,000 meters. The Brecon Beacons reach their highest point Pen y Fan at 886 meters while the Cambrian Mountains top out at Pumlumon with 735 meters.

When did the National Assembly change its name to Senedd Cymru?

In May 2020, the National Assembly was renamed Senedd Cymru or the Welsh Parliament commonly known as the Senedd. The Senedd has authority to draft and approve laws outside of the UK Parliamentary system to meet specific needs of Wales.

What percentage of the population spoke Welsh according to the 2021 census?

According to the 2021 census, the Welsh-speaking population aged three or older reached 17.8 per cent representing 538,300 people while nearly three-quarters had no Welsh language skills. English is spoken by almost all people in Wales and serves as the main language in most of the country.

All sources

262 references cited across the entry

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  3. 5webGovernment of Wales Act 1998legislation.gov.uk
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  15. 23bookVikings in Wales: An Archaeological QuestMark Redknap — National Museums & Galleries of Wales — 2000
  16. 25bookA History of Wales from the Earliest Times to the Edwardian ConquestJohn Edward Lloyd — Longmans, Green & Co. — 1912
  17. 27dwbLlywelyn ap Iorwerth ('Llywelyn the Great', often styled 'Llywelyn I', prince of Gwynedd)Thomas Jones Pierce — 1959b
  18. 28dwbLlywelyn ap Gruffydd ("Llywelyn the Last" or Llywelyn II), Prince of Wales (died 1282)Thomas Jones Pierce — 1959
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  20. 30bookThe Age of Conquest: Wales, 1063–1415R. R. Davies — Oxford University Press — 2000
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  22. 32bookRenewal and Reformation: Wales C. 1415-1642Glanmor Williams — Oxford University Press — 1993
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  24. 34bookRecovery, Reorientation, and Reformation: Wales c.1415–1642Glanmor Williams — Clarendon Press — 1987
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  30. 40journalWales and the 2019 ElectionRoger Awan Scully — March 2020
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  39. 52newsHigh tea: Mount Snowdon's magical mountaintop cafeJonathan Glancey — 2 August 2009
  40. 53webMountain upgraded to 'super' statusMedia Wales Ltd — 22 September 2010
  41. 54webThe Welsh 3000s Challengewelsh3000s.co.uk
  42. 55webAran Fawddwysnowdoniaguide.com
  43. 58webAll of Wales' Blue Flag beaches in 2019Joshua Knapman — 14 May 2019
  44. 59webStormy WeatherBBC — 28 April 2006
  45. 66webMet Office: Regional Climate: WalesMet Office — 2010
  46. 67webSoggiest city in Britain pays high price for rainRobert Turner — Media Wales Ltd — 26 July 2010
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  50. 73newsBlack ravens return to the roostBBC — 24 January 2006
  51. 74webRed kite voted Wales' Favourite BirdRoyal Society for the Protection of Birds — 11 October 2007
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  53. 79newsCoal tip repairs threaten rare wildlife, ecologists warnSteffan Messenger et al. — 29 August 2023
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  60. 90bookA parliament that works for WalesLaura McAllister et al. — National Assembly for Wales — 2017
  61. 92webMaking laws for WalesNational Assembly for Wales — 2010
  62. 93webExpanding Wales' international footprintOwain Richards — IWA — 8 February 2019
  63. 94webHistory and Development of the Welsh Language in the CourtsHer Majesty's Courts Service — 11 June 2007
  64. 95webSubordinate legislationWelsh Government — 13 February 2015
  65. 99bookMaking sense of WalesGraham Day — University of Wales Press — 2002
  66. 100webThe Environment, Tax and WalesMark Barry — 4 January 2021
  67. 104bookEnergy Generation in Wales 2019Regen; Welsh Government
  68. 106newsWales and HS2…Mark Barry — 7 January 2020
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  70. 108webSouth Wales coalfield timelineUniversity of Wales Swansea — 2002
  71. 109newsCoal Exchange to 'stock exchange'BBC — 26 April 2007
  72. 110bookThe psychology of distance: Wales: one nationPhil Williams — Institute of Welsh Affairs — September 2003
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  74. 113webWales A Vibrant EconomyWelsh Government — 2005
  75. 117webThe collapse of the Welsh banksPhil Carradice — BBC
  76. 119webwww.royalmint.gov.ukRoyal Mint — 2010
  77. 120webThe New Designs RevealedRoyal Mint — 10 February 2012
  78. 123webThe A470 is Britain's favourite roadCathy Owen — Wales Online — 6 June 2014
  79. 125webFerry connectionsTransport for Wales
  80. 132newsEastern Airways take over Cardiff to Anglesey routeNick Harding — 11 March 2017
  81. 133webCardiff Airport-DestinationsCardiff Airport – maes awyr caerdydd
  82. 135bookA History of WalesJohn Davies — Penguin UK — 1993
  83. 149webWelsh Language (Wales) Measure 2011The National Archives
  84. 155newsWhy butty rarely leaves WalesClaire Hill — Media Wales Ltd — 2 October 2006
  85. 161newsStatistical bulletin: 2011 Census: Key Statistics for Wales, March 2011Office for National Statistics — 11 December 2012
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  87. 164newsRecording Wales' disappearing Jewish historyNeil Prior — 20 July 2019
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  89. 170webhealth in Wales – 1960sNHS Wales — 23 October 2006
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  93. 180bookThe Mabinogi and Other Medieval Welsh TalesPatrick K. Ford — University of California Press — 2008
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  99. 186webNMOW, Art in 18th Century BritainAmgueddfa Cymru – Museum Wales
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  102. 190newsDylan Thomas and the Kardomah set11 February 2006
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  111. 201webWhat is the Welsh Books Council?Welsh Books Council — 2009
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  113. 203newsPhone fault hits Welsh magazineBBC — 24 October 2005
  114. 204webAboutPoetry Wales — 2010
  115. 205encyclopediaWales: Cultural life: Music, literature and film2006
  116. 206webWelsh Folk Song Societycanugwerin.com
  117. 207bookA Concise History of WalesGeraint H. Jenkins — Cambridge University Press — 2007
  118. 208newsMusic Preview: National Youth Orchestra of WalesMedia Wales Ltd — 3 August 2010
  119. 210webBadfinger: bad breaks, dumb luck and sheer tragedyMichael Heatley — Classic Rock Magazine — April 2017
  120. 213newsTen of the best: A history of Welsh folk music traditionMartin Aaron — 24 October 2013
  121. 215newsMovers and shakers revitalising our arts – Cont.Karen Price — Media Wales Ltd — 22 January 2010
  122. 216newsWhy so funny? – The top 10 Welsh comediansMedia Wales Ltd — 18 April 2012
  123. 217web30th birthday celebrations for National Dance Company WalesMike Smith — walesonline.co.uk — 22 February 2013
  124. 218webTop 10 foods to try in WalesCai Ross — BBC
  125. 219newslaverbreadRobin Turner — Media Wales Ltd — 3 November 2004
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  127. 223webHighlights: Juventus 1–4 Real MadridITV plc — 3 June 2017
  128. 224newsQuestions facing Wales' regional plansBBC — 3 April 2003
  129. 227newsEuropean Rugby StatementNick Verier — The Rugby Paper — 10 April 2014
  130. 228bookTries in the Valley: A History of Rugby League in WalesPeter Lush et al. — London League Publications — 1998
  131. 229webA Brief History of the LeagueAlun Evans — Welsh Premier League
  132. 230webThe Cardiff and Swansea DerbyBBC — 5 November 2010
  133. 232webUEFA 2016
  134. 233webWhat we do at the ECBEngland and Wales Cricket Board
  135. 234webHistory of Welsh county cricketGlamorgan Cricket
  136. 235webSnookerBBC
  137. 237webNicole Cooke RetiresCardiff Ajax Cycling Club — 15 January 2013
  138. 240newsWales' boxing world championsSean Davies — BBC — 25 March 2008
  139. 242bookCeltic Culture : A Historical EncyclopediaJohn Koch — ABL-CIO — 2005
  140. 247webFlying the flag to remember GlyndŵrWalesOnline — 15 September 2004
  141. 251webRoyal Welch Fusiliers badgeImperial War Museum
  142. 252webWhy Wales isn't represented on the Union JackThomas Deacon — 12 September 2018
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  144. 258webThe forgotten festivals of WalesAmgueddfa Cymru – Museum Wales — 7 September 2007
  145. 259webSt. Dwynwen's Day-Diwrnod Santes Dwynwen January 25thAmgueddfa Cymru – Museum Wales — 6 May 2007
  146. 260webWelsh National Anthem: History: About WalesWelsh Government — 2010