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— CH. 1 · INTRODUCTION —

Spain

12 min listen · Ch. 1 of 8
8 sections
  • Spain holds the southernmost point of continental Europe, and yet its reach has never stopped at the edge of the Iberian Peninsula. Its territory leaps across water and into another continent: the Canary Islands sit far out in the Eastern Atlantic, the Balearic Islands rest in the Western Mediterranean, and the cities of Ceuta and Melilla cling to the coast of mainland Africa. The capital is Madrid. The next-largest places, Barcelona, Valencia, Seville, Zaragoza, fan out across a landmass the Romans once called Hispania. Officially the Kingdom of Spain, it is the largest country in Southern Europe and the fourth-most populous member of the European Union. But a map of borders explains almost nothing here. Why does a single country contain regions with their own police forces, their own parliaments, and people who say they feel as Spanish as they do Catalan? How did a kingdom assembled by a royal marriage in the fifteenth century build one of the largest empires in history, then lose nearly all of it? And how does a name that may once have meant land of rabbits come to sit at the center of so much.

  • The Phoenicians called the region i-shphan-im, a phrase whose meaning is still argued over: land of rabbits or hyraxes, land of metals, or northern island. Roman coins struck here during the reign of Hadrian show a female figure with a rabbit at her feet, and the geographer Strabo simply called it the land of the rabbits. The Spanish word España descends from Hispania, the Roman name for the whole Iberian Peninsula. The deeper root of Hispania remains uncertain, a small mystery sitting under the name of an entire nation. Human presence here runs far older than any name. Archaeological work at Atapuerca shows hominids living on the peninsula 1.3 million years ago. Modern humans arrived from the north roughly 35,000 years ago, and in the Altamira cave of Cantabria they left painted walls made between 35,600 and 13,500 BCE by Cro-Magnon people. When the last ice age ended, the peninsula served as one of the refuges from which northern Europe was repopulated. Long before Rome, the coasts already belonged to many peoples: Iberians along the Mediterranean, Celts in the interior and north-west, Lusitanians in the west, and Tartessians in the southwest. Writing itself arrived with Phoenician traders, tentatively dated to the ninth century BC, who packed the south with dense little colonies. One of them, Gadir, kept strong links to its mother city of Tyre and grew more complex than the rest.

  • It took the Romans nearly two centuries to finish conquering the Iberian Peninsula, beginning in the Second Punic War, and once they held it they kept it for more than six centuries. Hispania became a granary for the Roman market, its harbours shipping out gold, wool, olive oil, and wine, with irrigation projects that in some cases still run today. The land gave Rome the emperors Hadrian, Trajan, and Theodosius I, and the philosopher Seneca. Christianity reached its cities in the second century, and from this era come most of Spain's present languages, its religions, and the basis of its laws. As the Western Roman Empire broke apart, Germanic peoples crossed in. The Suebi built a kingdom in the north-west; the Vandals settled the south by 420 before crossing to North Africa in 429. Eventually Hispania was reunited under Visigothic rule, centred on Toledo. That order collapsed quickly. Between 711 and 718, as the Umayyad Caliphate pushed across the Strait of Gibraltar, Muslim forces took nearly the entire peninsula, and only a strip in the mountainous north escaped. On that strip the Kingdom of Asturias-León took shape. For centuries the frontier between Muslim and Christian lands ran along the Ebro and Douro valleys. By the end of the tenth century the muladíes, Muslims of Iberian origin, are thought to have formed most of the population of Al-Andalus. The capture of Toledo in 1085 tilted the balance toward the Christian kingdoms, and in 1188 the Cortes of León gathered bishops, magnates, and elected citizens in what is described as the first form of modern parliamentary session in Europe.

  • In 1469 the marriage of Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon joined the crowns of the two strongest Christian kingdoms. The year 1492 carried three events at once. The Nasrid Sultanate of Granada, the last Muslim-ruled polity on the peninsula, capitulated to the Catholic Monarchs and was folded into the Crown of Castile. As part of the Spanish Inquisition, Jews were forced to choose conversion to Catholicism or expulsion, and as many as 200,000 were expelled from Castile and Aragon. That same year Christopher Columbus, funded by Isabella, crossed the Atlantic and reached the Caribbean. Each kingdom of Spain stayed a separate country in its laws, currency, and language, even as the union laid the basis for a single state. Islam was outlawed in Castile in 1502 and in Aragon in 1527, turning the remaining Muslims into nominally Christian Moriscos. After the War of the Alpujarras of 1568 to 1571, over 300,000 Moriscos were expelled, most settling in North Africa. The dynastic union of 1479 under the Catholic Monarchs is often read as the moment Spain became a nation state, but the kingdoms it bound together would not soon forget they had once stood apart.

  • During the reigns of Charles V, who ruled from 1516 to 1556, and Philip II, from 1556 to 1598, Habsburg Spain stood among the leading powers of the world and became its foremost maritime force. Its ships and soldiers crossed the Aztec and Inca empires, and the empire stretched across the Americas, the Indo-Pacific, parts of Africa, and holdings in Italy, the Low Countries, and the Franche-Comté. Precious metals and unknown plants flowed back to Europe and changed how Europeans pictured the globe, in an era now called the Spanish Golden Age. The cost fell elsewhere. In the Americas, societies and empires collapsed, and diseases carried from Europe devastated indigenous populations. Out of the moral questions this raised came the School of Salamanca, which built the first modern theories of what is now called international law and human rights. Spanish naval supremacy showed itself at the Battle of Lepanto against the Ottomans in 1571 and at Ponta Delgada against Portugal in 1582. Then came the setback of the Spanish Armada in 1588. By the middle of the seventeenth century the tide turned: defeats against the Dutch Republic at the Battle of the Downs, then against England, drained the treasury. Tangled in continent-wide religious wars and a plague-ridden century, Spain was finally forced to recognise the separation of Portugal and the Dutch Republic, even as its vast overseas empire stayed intact into the nineteenth century.

  • In 1807 a secret treaty between Napoleon and an unpopular prime minister dragged Spain into war against Britain and Portugal, and French troops sent to invade Portugal instead seized Spain's fortresses. The king abdicated, Joseph Bonaparte was installed as a puppet, and the revolt of the 2nd of May 1808 lit a war of independence that left an estimated 300,000 to 500,000 Spanish dead. In 1810 the Cortes of Cádiz assembled, representing the entire Spanish empire as a single body, and in 1812 declared a constitution for universal representation under a constitutional monarchy. The chaos at home opened a door abroad. Starting in 1809, the American colonies launched revolutions, and by the end of 1826 Spain held only Cuba and Puerto Rico. The nineteenth century stayed unstable, with Carlism fighting the supporters of Queen Isabella II in the Carlist Wars. The Spanish-American War of 1898, known at home as El Desastre, stripped away the last of the colonial empire outside North Africa. The new century brought industrialisation in Barcelona, the founding of the Spanish Socialist Workers' Party in 1879, and anarcho-syndicalist movements like the Confederación Nacional del Trabajo in 1910. After a Crown-supported dictatorship that ran from 1923 to 1931, municipal elections on the 12th of April 1931 were read as a vote on the monarchy. The king left, the Republic was proclaimed on the 14th of April, and a new constitution passed that October.

  • On the 17th and the 18th of July 1936, part of the military launched a coup that succeeded in only part of the country, splitting Spain into two zones. The Republican government drew support from the Soviet Union, Mexico, and the International Brigades, while the rebel faction relied most heavily on Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy. The Western powers held to a British-led policy of non-intervention. General Francisco Franco was sworn in as supreme leader of the rebels on the 1st of October 1936, and the war claimed over 500,000 lives. On the 1st of April 1939, five months before World War II began, Franco's side won and imposed a dictatorship. Between 1939 and 1943, roughly 200,000 people in Spain died from famine, and thousands more were held in Francoist concentration camps. Isolation gave way to strategy. In 1955, during the Cold War, Spain became valuable to the United States as a counter to Soviet moves into the Mediterranean, and in the 1960s an unprecedented surge of growth came from industry, internal migration, and mass tourism. After Franco's death in November 1975, Juan Carlos became king, and the Constitution of 1978 won the approval of 88% of voters in a referendum on the 6th of December. On the 23rd of February 1981, rebel security forces seized the Cortes, and the king went on national television to order the plotters to surrender. Spain joined NATO in 1982 and the European Economic Community in 1986.

  • The Spanish Constitution of 1978 created a country of 17 autonomous communities and two autonomous cities, each with its own elected parliament, government, and public administration. Catalonia, Galicia, and the Basque Country won self-government quickly, identifying themselves as nationalities. The arrangement was built to be uneven: only the Basque Country and Navarre hold full fiscal autonomy under ancient foral provisions, and the Basque Country, Canary Islands, Catalonia, and Navarre keep their own police corps, among them the Ertzaintza and the Mossos d'Esquadra. The result is one of the most decentralised states in Europe, ranked beside federations like Germany and Switzerland, even as the constitution insists on the indivisible unity of the nation. That tension turned sharp in October 2017, when a Catalan independence referendum led the Parliament of Catalonia to declare independence, and the Spanish Senate granted direct rule the same day. No country recognised Catalonia as a separate state. By 2024, Salvador Illa became the first non-independentist Catalan regional president in over a decade. Polls cited from the University of Barcelona that year found over 50% of Catalans would vote against independence and fewer than 40% in favour, with 46% saying they feel as Spanish as Catalan. The Crown still sits above this machinery as a fifth, moderating branch. King Felipe VI, who took the throne when Juan Carlos abdicated on the 19th of June 2014, stands as head of state and commander-in-chief, a figure whose role is to mediate crises rather than to make policy.

Common questions

What is Spain and where is it located?

Spain, officially the Kingdom of Spain, is a country in Southern and Western Europe with territories in North Africa. It spans most of the Iberian Peninsula and also includes the Canary Islands in the Atlantic, the Balearic Islands in the Mediterranean, and the autonomous cities of Ceuta and Melilla in mainland Africa. Its capital and largest city is Madrid.

Where does the name Spain come from?

The name Spain, or España, comes from Hispania, the name the Ancient Romans used for the Iberian Peninsula. The Phoenicians referred to the region as i-shphan-im, possibly meaning land of rabbits or hyraxes, land of metals, or northern island. Roman coins from the reign of Hadrian show a female figure with a rabbit at her feet, and Strabo called it the land of the rabbits.

How did Spain become unified as a nation?

Spain's unification is often traced to the marriage of Isabella I of Castile and Ferdinand II of Aragon, whose crowns were united in 1469. The dynastic union of Castile and Aragon in 1479 under the Catholic Monarchs is often seen as the de facto unification of Spain as a nation state, though each kingdom remained separate in law, currency, and language.

What happened during the Spanish Civil War and the Franco dictatorship?

The Spanish Civil War broke out in July 1936 when part of the military launched a coup, dividing the country between the Republican government and the Nationalist rebels. The war claimed over 500,000 lives, and General Francisco Franco's side won on the 1st of April 1939, imposing a dictatorship that lasted until his death in November 1975.

How is Spain governed today?

Spain is a secular parliamentary democracy and a constitutional monarchy, with King Felipe VI as head of state since the 19th of June 2014. Under the Constitution of 1978, approved by 88% of voters, the country is organised into 17 autonomous communities and two autonomous cities, making it one of the most decentralised states in Europe.

Why does Catalonia seek independence from Spain?

Catalonia identifies itself as a nationality and gained early self-government under the 1978 constitution. In October 2017 the Parliament of Catalonia voted to unilaterally declare independence, but no country recognised it as a separate state. A 2024 University of Barcelona poll found over 50% of Catalans would vote against independence and fewer than 40% in favour.

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