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Cardamom: the story on HearLore | HearLore
Cardamom
The first written record of cardamom dates back to the third millennium BCE, appearing on clay tablets in the palace archives of Mycenae under the Linear B script as ka-da-mi-ja. This ancient flavoring was not merely a kitchen ingredient but a currency of the ancient world, traded along routes controlled by Dilmun and the Persian Gulf long before the Roman Empire rose. The Babylonians and Assyrians utilized the spice early on, and it became a central component of the luxury trade that connected the Indian subcontinent to the Mediterranean. By 126 CE, the Roman Empire had established an import tax on cardamom in Alexandria, signaling its status as a high-value commodity. The Greek physicians Dioscorides and Hippocrates wrote extensively about its therapeutic properties, identifying it as a powerful digestive aid and a remedy for ailments that plagued the ancient world. In medieval times, Venice became the principal importer of cardamom into the west, trading it with merchants from the Levant for salt and meat products, creating a network of commerce that would eventually span the globe.
The Green Pod and The Black Secret
While true cardamom comes from the species Elettaria cardamomum with light green, triangular pods, a darker, smoky counterpart exists in the form of black cardamom from the species Amomum subulatum. This variety, native to the eastern Himalayas, is cultivated in Eastern Nepal, Sikkim, and parts of the Darjeeling district in West Bengal, as well as southern Bhutan. Unlike the sweet, aromatic profile of the green variety, black cardamom possesses a smoky aroma with a coolness that some compare to mint, making it distinct from the more common green pods. The physical differences are stark; Elettaria pods are small and spindle-shaped with a thin, papery outer shell, while Amomum pods are dark brown and significantly larger. In the 21st century, these two types dominate the market, with true cardamom distributed from India to Malaysia and black cardamom finding its home in the high altitudes of the Himalayas. Other related culinary plants, such as Siam cardamom, Ethiopian cardamom, and Tavoy cardamom, add to the complexity of the spice family, each with unique chemical compositions and regional uses.
The Labor of the Eld-Kandies
The cultivation of cardamom is a highly labor-intensive process that begins in the forests of India, where small plots of land known as eld-kandies are cleared during February and March. Farmers cut brushwood and burn it to free the soil from powerful weeds, allowing the cardamom plants to spring up within the cleared area. These plants grow slowly, reaching eight to ten leaves and a height of about one meter after two years, and standing at roughly 1.5 meters by the third year. The harvest occurs between October and November, though exceptionally moist weather can extend the season into December. At the time of harvesting, the scapes or shoots bearing the clusters of fruits are broken off close to the stems and placed in baskets lined with fresh leaves. The fruits are then spread out on carefully prepared floors, sometimes covered with mats, and exposed to the sun for four or five days to dry and bleach. In rainy weather, artificial heat is necessary, though the fruits often suffer in color, leading some producers to bleach them with steam, sulphurous vapour, or ritha nuts. The industry requires considerable maintenance throughout the year, and the life of each plantation historically lasted about eight or nine years before the soil needed to be re-planted.
When was the first written record of cardamom created?
The first written record of cardamom dates back to the third millennium BCE, appearing on clay tablets in the palace archives of Mycenae under the Linear B script as ka-da-mi-ja. This ancient flavoring was traded along routes controlled by Dilmun and the Persian Gulf long before the Roman Empire rose.
What are the differences between green cardamom and black cardamom?
True cardamom comes from the species Elettaria cardamomum with light green, triangular pods, while black cardamom comes from the species Amomum subulatum and is native to the eastern Himalayas. Black cardamom possesses a smoky aroma with a coolness that some compare to mint, and its pods are dark brown and significantly larger than the small, spindle-shaped green pods.
How is cardamom cultivated and harvested in India?
The cultivation of cardamom begins in the forests of India where small plots of land known as eld-kandies are cleared during February and March. The harvest occurs between October and November, though exceptionally moist weather can extend the season into December, and the fruits are dried and bleached using sun, steam, or sulphurous vapour.
Which country surpassed India in cardamom production in 1979?
In 1979, a dramatic shift occurred in the global spice market when Guatemala surpassed India in worldwide production by cultivating Elettaria cardamomum. Today, the Alta Verapaz Department produces 70 percent of Guatemala's cardamom, while India ranks second in world production but consumes 95 percent of what it grows.
What is the chemical composition of cardamom essential oil?
The essential oil content of cardamom seeds can reach as high as 8 percent and is typically 45 percent alpha-terpineol, 27 percent myrcene, and 8 percent limonene. Other sources report varying contents including 1,8-cineol at 20 to 50 percent and alpha-terpenylacetate at 30 percent, highlighting the variability in chemical composition across different species and growing conditions.
How much cardamom was produced worldwide in 2022?
In 2022, world production of cardamom was 138,888 tonnes, led by India, Indonesia, and Guatemala, which together accounted for 85 percent of the total. Cardamom is currently ranked the third most expensive spice in the world, following saffron and vanilla, and 80 percent of its total consumption occurs in the Middle East.
In 1979, a dramatic shift occurred in the global spice market when Guatemala surpassed India in worldwide production, a feat achieved by cultivating Elettaria cardamomum, a species native to the Malabar Coast of India. This agricultural miracle was introduced to Guatemala before World War I by the German coffee planter Oscar Majus Kloeffer, who saw potential in the high-altitude regions of the Alta Verapaz Department. By the post-World War II era, production had increased to 13,000 to 14,000 tons annually, and today, the Alta Verapaz Department produces 70 percent of Guatemala's cardamom. The average annual income for a plantation-owning household in 1998 was US$3,408, and although the typical harvest requires over 210 days of labor per year, most cardamom farmers are better off than many other agricultural workers. This shift in production dynamics has created a complex trade relationship, with Guatemala exporting the vast majority of its crop while India, which ranks second in world production, consumes 95 percent of what it grows. The industry in India is protected by organizations such as the Cardamom Growers Association, established in 1992, and the Kerala Cardamom Growers Association, established in 1974, which work to support producers against climate vagaries and ecological conditions associated with deforestation.
The Chemistry of the Pod
The essential oil content of cardamom seeds can reach as high as 8 percent, depending on storage conditions, and is composed of a complex mixture of chemical compounds that define its unique flavor profile. The oil is typically 45 percent alpha-terpineol, 27 percent myrcene, 8 percent limonene, 6 percent menthone, 3 percent beta-phellandrene, 2 percent 1,8-cineol, 2 percent sabinene, and 2 percent heptane. Other sources report varying contents, including 1,8-cineol at 20 to 50 percent, alpha-terpenylacetate at 30 percent, and borneol, highlighting the variability in chemical composition across different species and growing conditions. In the seeds of round cardamom from Java, the content of essential oil is lower, ranging from 2 to 4 percent, and the oil contains mainly 1,8-cineol at up to 70 percent plus beta-pinene at 16 percent. This chemical diversity explains why green cardamom is one of the most expensive spices by weight, yet little is needed to impart flavor. The oil's potency means that exposed or ground seeds quickly lose their flavor, and grinding the pods and seeds together lowers both the quality and the price. For recipes requiring whole cardamom pods, a generally accepted equivalent is 10 pods equals 3/4 teaspoon of ground cardamom, a ratio that underscores the spice's intense aromatic power.
The Nordic and Middle Eastern Connection
In the Nordic countries, particularly Sweden, Norway, and Finland, green cardamom is a staple of baking, used in traditional treats such as the Scandinavian Yule bread, the Swedish Kardemummabullar sweet bun, and Finnish sweet bread. This usage contrasts sharply with the Middle East, where green cardamom powder is used as a spice for sweet dishes and as a traditional flavoring in coffee and tea. In some Middle Eastern countries, coffee and cardamom are ground in a wooden mortar and cooked together in a skillet over wood or gas to produce mixtures with up to 40 percent cardamom. The spice is also used to a wide extent in savory dishes, and in Asia, both types of cardamom are widely used in both sweet and savory dishes, particularly in the south. Individual seeds are sometimes chewed and used in much the same way as chewing gum, and the confectionery giant Wrigley uses cardamom in its Eclipse Breeze Exotic Mint packaging to neutralize the toughest breath odors. In Korea, Tavoy cardamom and red cardamom are used in tea called ssanghwa-cha, demonstrating the spice's versatility across cultures and its ability to adapt to local tastes and traditions.
The Third Most Expensive Spice
Cardamom is currently ranked the third most expensive spice in the world, following saffron and vanilla, a status that has persisted for centuries due to its labor-intensive cultivation and high demand. In 2022, world production of cardamom was 138,888 tonnes, led by India, Indonesia, and Guatemala, which together accounted for 85 percent of the total. Importing leaders include Saudi Arabia and Kuwait, while other significant importers are Germany, Iran, Japan, Jordan, Pakistan, Qatar, the United Arab Emirates, the UK, and the former USSR. According to the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development, 80 percent of cardamom's total consumption occurs in the Middle East. The trade of cardamom is influenced by price movements, nationally and internationally, in 5 to 6-year cycles, creating a volatile market for producers and consumers alike. In the 19th century, Bombay and Madras were among the principal distributing ports of cardamom, and India's exports to foreign countries increased during the early 20th century, particularly to the United Kingdom, followed by Arabia, Aden, Germany, Turkey, Japan, Persia, and Egypt. Despite this global trade, India is itself by far the most important consuming country for cardamoms in the world, and the industry remains highly labor-intensive, requiring considerable maintenance throughout the year.