Free to follow every thread. No paywall, no dead ends.
Textile: the story on HearLore | HearLore
Textile
The discovery of dyed flax fibers in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests that textile-like materials were made as early as the Paleolithic era, long before the invention of the wheel or the rise of cities. These microscopic fibers, radiocarbon dated to 36,000 years ago, indicate that modern humans migrating from Africa had already mastered the art of turning plant matter into wearable protection. The earliest tools for spinning were simple spindles, which eventually evolved to include a whorl to improve the thickness and twist of the spun thread. This ancient craft began with the most basic materials: leaves, barks, fur pelts, and felted cloths. The first clothes, worn at least 70,000 years ago, were likely made of animal skins to protect early humans from the elements, but the transition to woven plant fibers marked a pivotal moment in human history. The Banton Burial Cloth, the oldest existing example of warp ikat in Southeast Asia, is displayed at the National Museum of the Philippines and was most likely made by the native Asian people of northwest Romblon, proving that complex textile traditions existed in diverse regions thousands of years ago.
The Industrial Revolution
In 1765, a machine for spinning wool or cotton called the spinning jenny was invented in the United Kingdom, marking the moment textile production became the first economic activity to be industrialized. This invention did not happen in isolation; it was part of a rapid cascade of innovations that transformed a craft into a global industry. John Kay invented the flying shuttle in 1734 in Bury, Lancashire, which was one of the first innovations in the cotton woven fabric industry. By 1785, Edmund Cartwright had invented the first power loom, and the Jacquard machine, a modified version of a programmable loom developed in 1804 by Joseph Marie Jacquard, would later use punch cards to control complex patterns. The industrial revolution in the 18th century led to mass production of yarn and cloth, which led to the growth of the woven fabric part of the textile industry. The speed and scale of textile production have been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques. Yet, for the main types of textiles, plain weave, twill, or satin weave, there is little difference between the ancient and modern methods. The textile industry grew out of art and craft and was kept going by craft guilds, but the mechanization of the 18th and 19th centuries changed the world forever.
The Silk Road and The Shroud
Silk is an animal textile made from the fibers of the cocoon of the Chinese silkworm which is spun into a smooth fabric prized for its softness, and around four-fifths of the world's silk production consists of cultivated silk. The history of this fabric is so intertwined with global trade that it gave its name to the Silk Road, a network of trade routes connecting the East and West. The Bayeux Tapestry, a rare example of secular Romanesque art, depicts the Norman Conquest of England in 1066, serving as a historical record woven in thread. In the 16th century, the Mughal Empire produced fine muslins with poetic names like Baft Hawa, which means woven air, and Shabnam, which means evening dew. These delicate fabrics were so fine they were described as flowing water or evening dew, showcasing the incredible skill of Dacca, in the eastern Indian subcontinent. The Paisley motif, a type of design, originates from Iran and Persia, later moving to India with the Mughals and transported by the British through the silk route to Scotland, where the town of Paisley in Renfrewshire gave the pattern its English name. The Inca Empire's textile arts remnants embody the Incas' aesthetics and social ideals, serving as a means for disseminating information about numerous civilizations, customs, and cultures.
Common questions
When were the earliest textile-like materials made according to archaeological evidence?
The earliest textile-like materials were made as early as 34,000 BCE during the Paleolithic era. Radiocarbon dating of dyed flax fibers found in a cave in the Republic of Georgia confirms these microscopic fibers are 36,000 years old.
Who invented the spinning jenny and when did it happen?
The spinning jenny was invented in 1765 in the United Kingdom. This machine for spinning wool or cotton marked the moment textile production became the first economic activity to be industrialized.
What is the oldest existing example of warp ikat and where is it located?
The Banton Burial Cloth is the oldest existing example of warp ikat in Southeast Asia. It is displayed at the National Museum of the Philippines and was most likely made by the native Asian people of northwest Romblon.
Which country is the largest exporter of textile goods and what was its market value in 2016?
China is the largest exporter of textile goods. In 2016, its apparel market share was valued at 161 billion dollars.
What is the environmental impact of the textile sector regarding water usage?
The textile sector is believed to use 79 trillion liters of water per year. It also discharges around 20% of all industrial effluent into the environment.
In the 20th century, artificial fibers made from petroleum supplemented natural materials, creating a new era of textile possibilities. Nylon, a fiber used to imitate silk, is used in the production of pantyhose, while thicker nylon fibers are used in rope and outdoor clothing. Spandex, a trade name for Lycra, is a polyurethane product that can be made tight-fitting without impeding movement, revolutionizing activewear and swimwear. The development of milk protein fabric during World War I in Germany, and further developed in Italy and America during the 1930s, showed that even organic waste could be transformed into wearable material. Beta cloth, a virtually fireproof fabric which replaced nylon in the outer layer of United States space suits since 1968, was woven and coated with Teflon to create a material that could withstand the harsh conditions of space. Aramid fiber, such as Twaron, is used for flame-retardant clothing, cut-protection, and armor, demonstrating how synthetic fibers could be engineered for extreme durability. The demand for synthetic fibers is increasing rapidly, and by 2030, the synthetic fiber market will reach 98.21 billion US dollars, driven by low prices and versatility in design and application.
The Hidden Cost
After the oil industry, the fashion industry is the second biggest polluter of agricultural land, which has several harmful impacts on the environment. The textile sector is believed to use 79 trillion liters of water per year and to discharge around 20% of all industrial effluent into the environment. Dyes are considered significant contaminants, and the discharge of untreated wastewater and the use of toxic chemicals, particularly during processing, account for the majority of the global environmental concerns linked with the textile industry. Many kinds of respiratory diseases, skin problems, and allergies may be caused by dyes and pigments discharged into the water. Perfluorinated acids, such as Perfluorooctanoic acid, are considered hazardous to human health by the US Environmental Protection Agency, and can act as endocrine disruptors. Textiles containing various kinds of plastics like polyester, polyamide, elastan, polyacrylonitrile, aramid, polypropylene, etc. are also a significant source of environmental pollution and impose health risks through the emission of microplastics. In 2023, North Carolina State University researchers used enzymes to separate cotton from polyester in an early step towards reducing textile waste, allowing each material to be recycled, highlighting the urgent need for sustainable solutions.
The Global Loom
China is the largest exporter of textile goods, and in 2016, its apparel market share was valued at 161 billion dollars, a decline of 8% year-over-year. In that same year, Bangladesh's apparel market share was valued at 28 billion dollars, increasing 7.69 percent from the previous year, while Vietnam's share was 25 billion dollars. The competitive advantages of China are low prices and abundant labor, lowered commercial obstacles, and a ready supply of raw materials. However, China's apparel market share has declined in recent years due to various reasons and a shift toward high-end, sophisticated products. Investors from China made stakes in Myanmar, Vietnam, and Cambodia, shifting the production landscape. The global textiles and apparel export market reached 772 billion dollars in 2013, and global fiber output roughly doubled from 58 million tons in 2000 to 113 million tons in 2021. The textile industry exhibits inherent dynamism, influenced by a multitude of transformative changes and innovations within the domain, including shifts in international trade policies, evolving fashion trends, and evolving customer preferences.
The Future Fabric
Threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, when woven into fabric, have been shown capable of self-powering nanosystems, using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements to generate energy. This is just one example of how textiles are evolving from passive materials to active components of technology. 3D-printed outfits and complex interlaced yarns are being used to create heart valves and composite profiles, blurring the line between fashion and engineering. The textile sector is accountable for a substantial number of environmental impacts, but innovations like Nano-Tex and NanoHorizons are developing permanent treatments based on metallic nanoparticles for making textiles more resistant to things such as water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi. The demand for synthetic fibers is increasing rapidly, and by 2030, the synthetic fiber market will reach 98.21 billion US dollars, but the industry is also exploring biodegradable, renewable synthetic fibers like milk fiber fabric. The future of textiles lies in the balance between functionality, sustainability, and the ability to meet the needs of a growing global population.