Surfing
About three to five thousand years ago, cultures in ancient Peru fished in kayak-like watercraft made of reeds that the fishermen surfed back to shore. The Moche culture used the caballito de totora, a little horse of totora, with archaeological evidence showing its use around 200 CE. An early description of Inca surfing in Callao was documented by Jesuit missionary José de Acosta in his 1590 publication Historia natural y moral de las Indias. Polynesians began making their way to the Hawaiian Islands from Tahiti and the Marquesas Islands, bringing customs including playing in the surf on Paipo boards. It was in Hawaii that the art of standing and surfing upright on boards was invented. Various European explorers witnessed surfing in Polynesia. Surfing may have been observed by British explorers at Tahiti in 1767. Samuel Wallis and crew members were the first Britons to visit the island in June of that year. Another candidate is botanist Joseph Banks who arrived on Tahiti on the 10th of April 1769. Lieutenant James King was the first person to write about the art of surfing on Hawaii when he completed journals of Captain James Cook after Cook's death in 1779. West Africans independently developed the skill of surfing. Amid the 1640s CE, Michael Hemmersam provided an account of surfing in the Gold Coast where parents tied children to boards and threw them into the water. In 1679 CE, Barbot provided an account of surfing among Elmina children in Ghana where children learned to swim on bits of boards or small bundles of rushes fastened under their stomachs. James Alexander provided an account of surfing in Accra, Ghana in 1834 CE describing boys swimming into the sea with light boards under their stomachs. Thomas Hutchinson provided an account of surfing in southern Cameroon in 1861 where fishermen rode small dugouts no more than six feet in length.
In July 1885, three teenage Hawaiian princes took a break from their boarding school at St. Matthew's Hall in San Mateo and came to cool off in Santa Cruz, California. David Kawānanakoa, Edward Keli'iahonui and Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana'ole surfed the mouth of the San Lorenzo River on custom-shaped redwood boards according to surf historians Kim Stoner and Geoff Dunn. In 1890, pioneer John Wrightson reputedly became the first British surfer when instructed by two Hawaiian students at his college. George Freeth is generally credited as the person who had done more than anyone else to renew interest in surfing at Waikiki in the early twentieth century after the sport had declined in popularity in Hawaii during the latter half of the nineteenth century. In 1907, land developer Abbot Kinney helped bring Freeth to California. The Hawaii Promotion Committee arranged for Freeth to perform at Venice of America in July 1907. Later that year, land baron Henry E. Huntington brought surfing to Redondo Beach where he hired Freeth as a lifeguard to give exhibitions in front of the Hotel Redondo. Another native Hawaiian, Duke Kahanamoku, spread surfing to both the U.S. and Australia riding waves after displaying swimming prowess that won Olympic gold medals in 1912 and 1920. Mary Ann Hawkins achieved a historic milestone by winning California's first women's paddleboard race at the Santa Monica Breakwater on the 12th of September 1936. She continued to dominate the sport winning numerous competitions including the women's half-mile paddleboard race and the Venice Breakwater event in 1938. In January 1939, Hawkins was appointed head of the women's auxiliary group of the Santa Monica Paddle Club and rose to vice president by January 1940. Whitey Harrison described her as the best tandem rider. In 1975, a professional tour started when Margo Oberg became the first female professional surfer.
Swell is generated when wind blows consistently over a large space of open water called the wind's fetch. The size of a swell is determined by strength of wind, length of its fetch and duration. Because of these factors surf tends to be larger and more prevalent on coastlines exposed to large expanses of ocean traversed by intense low pressure systems. Local wind conditions affect wave quality since surface of wave can become choppy in blustery conditions. Ideal conditions include light to moderate offshore wind because it blows into front of wave making it a barrel or tube wave. Waves are left-handed and right-handed depending upon breaking formation of wave. Most important influence on wave shape is topography of seabed directly behind and immediately beneath breaking wave. Each break is different since each location's underwater topography is unique. At beach breaks sandbanks change shape from week to week. Surf forecasting is aided by advances in information technology. Mathematical modeling graphically depicts size and direction of swells around globe. During winter heavy swells are generated in mid-latitudes when North and South polar fronts shift toward Equator. Predominantly Westerly winds generate swells that advance Eastward so waves tend to be largest on West coasts during winter months. An endless train of mid-latitude cyclones cause isobars to become undulated redirecting swells at regular intervals toward tropics. East coasts also receive heavy winter swells when low-pressure cells form in sub-tropics where slow moving highs inhibit their movement. These lows produce shorter fetch than polar fronts but still generate heavy swells since slower movement increases duration of particular wind direction. Variables of fetch and duration both influence how long wind acts over wave as it travels since wave reaching end of fetch behaves as if wind died. During summer heavy swells are generated when cyclones form in tropics. Tropical cyclones form over warm seas so occurrence influenced by El Niño and La Niña cycles. Their movements unpredictable. Swells arrive in pulses each lasting for couple days with few days between each swell. Tube speed described using peel angle and wave celerity. Peel angle is angle between wave front and horizontal projection of point of break over time which in regular break most easily represented by line of white water left after break. A break that closes out or breaks all at once along its length leaves white water parallel to wave front having peel angle of 0 degrees. This unsurfable as would require infinite speed to progress along face fast enough to keep up with break. Break advancing along wave face more slowly leaves line of new white water at angle to line of wave face.
Surfboards were originally made of solid wood and large and heavy often up to 20 feet in length and having mass of 150 pounds. Lighter balsa wood surfboards first made in late 1940s and early 1950s significant improvement not only in portability but also increasing maneuverability. Most modern surfboards made of fiberglass foam PU with one or more wooden strips or stringers fiberglass cloth and polyester resin PE. Emerging board material epoxy resin and Expanded Polystyrene foam EPS stronger and lighter than traditional PU/PE construction. Even newer designs incorporate materials such as carbon fiber and variable-flex composites in conjunction with fiberglass and epoxy or polyester resins. Since epoxy/EPS surfboards generally lighter they float better than traditional PU/PE board similar size shape thickness making easier paddle faster water. Common complaint EPS boards do not provide much feedback as traditional PU/PE board. For reason many advanced surfers prefer surfboards made from traditional materials. Other equipment includes leash to stop board drifting away after wipeout preventing hitting other surfers surf wax traction pads keeping surfer's feet from slipping off deck fins skegs permanently attached glassed-on or interchangeable. Sportswear designed particularly suitable for surfing sold as boardwear term used snowboarding too. In warmer climates swimsuits surf trunks boardshorts worn occasionally rash guards cold water surfers opt wear wetsuits boots hoods gloves protect against lower water temperatures. Newer introduction rash vest thin layer titanium providing maximum warmth without compromising mobility. Big wave surfers now experimenting inflatable vests colored dye packs help decrease odds drowning. Modern longboards generally 9 feet length reminiscent earliest surfboards but benefit modern innovations surfboard shaping fin design. Competitive longboard surfers need competent traditional walking maneuvers short-radius turns normally associated shortboard surfing. Modern shortboard began life late 1960s evolved into today common thruster style defined three fins usually around 6 feet length. Thruster invented Australian shaper Simon Anderson. Midsize boards often called funboards provide more maneuverability than longboard more flotation than shortboard. Many surfers find funboards live name providing best both modes others critical. It happy medium mediocrity writes Steven Kotler. Funboard riders either nothing left prove lack skills prove anything.
In 2016 surfing added by International Olympic Committee IOC as Olympic sport to begin at 2020 Summer Olympics in Japan. First gold medalists Tokyo 2020 surfing men and women competitions respectively Brazilian Ítalo Ferreira American from Hawaii Carissa Moore. Founded 1964 International Surfing Association ISA oldest foundation associated surfing formed better improve surfing recognized International Olympic Committee leading authority surfing. National international surf competitions began 1964. World Surf League WSL established 1976 promotes various championship tours hosting top competitors some best surf spots around globe. Small number people make career surfing receiving corporate sponsorships performing photographers videographers far-flung destinations typically referred freesurfers. Sixty-six surfers on 20 foot surfboard set record Huntington Beach California most people surfboard one time. Dale Webster consecutively surfed 14,641 days making main life focus. As of 2023 Guinness Book World Records recognized 26.2 meter 86 foot wave ride Sebastian Steudtner Nazaré Portugal largest wave ever surfed. In tow-in surfing motorized water vehicle such personal watercraft tows surfer into wave front helping match large wave's speed generally higher speed self-propelled surfer produce. Recently use V-drive boats wakesurfing emerged wherein one surfs wake boat.
Surfers represent diverse culture based riding waves. Some practice surfing recreational activity others make central focus lives. Surfing culture US dominant Hawaii California because two states offer best surfing conditions. However waves found wherever coastline tight-knit yet far-reaching subculture surfers emerged throughout America. Historical markers culture included woodie station wagon used carry surfers boards boardshorts long swim shorts typically worn while surfing. Surfers wear wetsuits colder regions seasons cool air water. During 1960s as surfing caught California popularity spread American pop culture. Several teen movies starting Gidget series 1959 transformed surfing dream life American youth. Later movies including Beach Party 1963 Ride Wild Surf 1964 Beach Blanket Bingo 1965 promoted California dream sun surf. Surf culture fueled early records Beach Boys. Sport significant part Australia eastern coast sub-cultural life especially New South Wales weather water conditions most favorable for surfing. Sport now represents multibillion-dollar industry especially clothing fashion markets. When waves flat surfers persevered sidewalk surfing called skateboarding. Sidewalk surfing similar feel surfing requires paved road sidewalk. Create feel wave surfers even sneaked empty backyard swimming pools ride known pool skating. Eventually surfing made slopes invention Snurfer later credited first snowboard. Many other board sports invented years trace heritage back surfing. Many surfers claim spiritual connection ocean describing surfing surfing experience both in out water type spiritual experience religion. Recent academic studies practitioner testimonies demonstrated mental health well-being benefits surfing spurred development para surfing surf therapy.
Surfing like all water sports carries inherent risk drowning. Although board assists surfer staying buoyant it can become separated user. Leash attached ankle knee keep board swept away does not keep rider board above water. Some cases possibly including drowning professional surfer Mark Foo leash cause drowning snagging reef object holding surfer underwater. Keeping surfboard close surfer during wipeout increases chances board strike rider knocking unconscious lead drowning especially hard surfboard instead soft surfboard. Fallen rider's board trapped larger waves rider attached leash dragged long distances underwater. Surfers careful remain smaller surf until acquired advanced skills experience necessary handle bigger waves challenging conditions. Even world-class surfers drowned extremely challenging conditions. Under wrong set conditions anything surfer body contact potential hazard including sand bars rocks small ice reefs surfboards other surfers. Collisions objects sometimes cause injuries cuts scrapes rare instances death. Large number injuries up to 66% caused collision surfboard nose fins. Fins cause deep lacerations cuts bruising. While injuries minor open skin infection sea groups like Surfers Against Sewage campaign cleaner waters reduce risk infections. Local bugs diseases risk factors surfing around globe. Falling off surfboard colliding others commonly referred wipeout. Sea life sometimes cause injuries Bethany Hamilton even fatalities. Animals sharks stingrays Weever fish seals jellyfish sometimes present danger. Warmer-water surfers often do stingray shuffle walking out shallows shuffling feet sand scare away stingrays resting bottom. Rip currents fast narrow currents caused onshore transport within surf zone successive return water seaward. Wedge bathymetry makes convenient consistent rip current 5-10 meters bringing surfers take-off point then beach. Flow water moving out towards sea rip stronger most swimmers making swimming back shore difficult paddling parallel shore easily exit rip current. Alternatively some surfers actually ride rip current fast effortless way get beyond zone breaking waves. Seabed pose risk surfers. If surfer falls riding wave wave tosses tumbles surfer around often downwards direction. Reef breaks beach breaks surfers seriously injured killed violent collision sea bed water above sometimes very shallow especially beach breaks reef breaks during low tide. Cyclops Western Australia biggest thickest reef breaks world waves measuring up to 20 feet high reef below only about 3 feet surface water. January 2018 study University Exeter called Beach Bum Survey found surfers bodyboarders three times likely non-surfers harbor antibiotic-resistant E coli four times likely harbor other bacteria capable easily becoming antibiotic resistant. Researchers attributed fact surfers swallow roughly ten times much seawater swimmers. Surfers sometimes use ear protection such ear plugs avoid surfer's ear inflammation ear other damage. Surfer's ear bone near ear canal grows repeated exposure cold water making ear canal narrower. Narrowed canal harder water drain ear resulting pain infection sometimes ringing ear.
Continue Browsing
Common questions
When did surfing originate in ancient Peru?
Cultures in ancient Peru began surfing back to shore on reed watercraft between three thousand and five thousand years ago. The Moche culture utilized the caballito de totora around 200 CE as evidenced by archaeological records.
Who documented early surfing history in Polynesia and Hawaii?
Jesuit missionary José de Acosta documented Inca surfing in Callao in his 1590 publication Historia natural y moral de las Indias. Lieutenant James King became the first person to write about surfing on Hawaii after completing journals of Captain James Cook following Cook's death in 1779.
How did surfing spread from Hawaii to California in the late nineteenth century?
Three teenage Hawaiian princes surfed the mouth of the San Lorenzo River in Santa Cruz, California during July 1885. David Kawānanakoa, Edward Keli'iahonui, and Jonah Kūhiō Kalaniana'ole rode custom-shaped redwood boards while attending boarding school at St. Matthew's Hall in San Mateo.
What are the primary factors that determine swell size for surfing conditions?
Swell is generated when wind blows consistently over a large space of open water called the wind's fetch. The size of a swell depends on the strength of the wind, the length of its fetch, and the duration of the wind blowing.
When was surfing added as an Olympic sport and who won the first gold medals?
The International Olympic Committee added surfing to the Olympic program in 2016 to begin at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Japan. Brazilian Ítalo Ferreira and American Carissa Moore became the first gold medalists in Tokyo 2020 surfing men and women competitions respectively.