Suit
In 17th-century England, King Charles II decreed that men in his court would wear a long coat, a waistcoat, and knee breeches instead of the elaborate embroidered gowns common to aristocrats. This shift marked the beginning of what we now call the suit, transforming formal court attire into something more practical for daily life. The style originated as sportswear and country clothing in Britain before becoming standard business wear. By the early 20th century, the lounge suit had replaced the black frock coat as regular daywear, establishing itself as semi-formal or business attire in Western dress codes. Originally considered casual compared to prevailing standards, the suit gradually gained acceptance as everyday professional clothing. Hats were once worn with all men's clothes until the counterculture movement of the 1960s changed this tradition. Brooks Brothers is credited with first offering ready-to-wear suits, while Haggar Clothing introduced suit separates in the United States.
Bespoke suits are custom-made by tailors from patterns created entirely from a customer's measurements, offering the best fit and complete fabric choice. Made-to-measure garments use pre-existing patterns modified to fit individual preferences, though they offer limited options for fabrics and styles. Ready-to-wear suits, also called off-the-peg or off-the-rack, come sold already manufactured and sized, requiring only minor alterations if needed at all. Suit separates allow jackets and trousers to be purchased independently, minimizing alteration needs while providing smart casual flexibility through odd-colored blazers. Custom bespoke processes can take tailors up to 80 hours to complete, involving multiple basted fittings where half-made coats are tried on repeatedly before final construction. The acid test of authentic tailoring remains the presence or absence of wrinkles caused by poor shaping. Rock Of Eye represents an experienced tailor's trained freehand ability to match items to wearers without relying solely on scripted approaches.
Wool dominates suit materials, available as worsteds combed before spinning for smooth durability or woollens left fluffy in texture. Fabrics range from flannel and tweed to gabardine and fresco, each carrying different weights and tactile qualities measured by Super numbers indicating fiber fineness. Winter wools weigh between 12 to 14 ounces per square yard, three-season varieties measure 10 to 11 ounces, while summer fabrics reach just 7 to 8 ounces. Before central heating existed, some suits utilized heavy 16-ounce wool, now reserved primarily for overcoats and topcoats. Cashmere blends occasionally appear alongside traditional wool, though synthetic materials like polyester remain rarely recommended despite their wrinkle resistance benefits. Linen serves hot weather needs, with cotton seersucker popular in the Southern United States. Business suits typically feature black, light grey, dark grey, or navy colors, sometimes incorporating pinstripes or windowpane checks. Grey flannel suiting has been widely worn since the 1930s, while brown and olive occur less formally. Summer months favor lighter shades of tan or cream, whereas red and bright greens are generally considered garish.
Single-breasted jackets usually display two or three buttons, with four or more being unusual except for zoot suits reaching six or higher. Double-breasted versions feature half their outer buttons as functional, forcing pairs that come in configurations ranging from two to eight depending on era. The bottom button traditionally remains unfastened to preserve jacket lines and drape, a convention attributed to King Edward VII who started leaving both suit and waistcoat bottom buttons undone. Lapels vary between notched styles at 75-to-90 degree angles, peaked edges pointing upward toward shoulders, shawl collars derived from Victorian evening wear, and unconventional trick designs. Notched lapels dominate single-breasted jackets as the most informal option, while double-breasted pieces typically employ peaked varieties. Jacket width fluctuated dramatically: the 1930s and 1970s featured exceptionally wide lapels, whereas late 1950s through much of the 1960s saw very narrow versions measuring only inches across. Pockets include patch styles sporting options, flap pockets standard for sides, jetted besom pockets formal in nature, breast pockets holding pocket squares, ticket pockets above right pockets, and hacking pockets slanted for horseback riding ease. Sleeve cuffs commonly display three or four decorative buttons, though working surgeon's cuff buttons appear on high-end bespoke garments.
Suit trousers maintain matching material with their jackets, evolving from straight-legged wide cuts in the 1920s to tapered silhouettes after 1935. Pleats provide comfort sitting and better standing hang, descending from exaggerated Oxford bags worn in the 1930s before flat-fronted alternatives gained popularity during various periods. Turn-ups or cuffs initially popularized by Edward VII in the 1890s remained fashionable throughout the 1920s and 1930s as informal options inappropriate on all formalwear. Rise height varied significantly early in the 20th century, reaching above natural waistlines before returning to low-rise styles resting on hips. Belt usage rose during wartime years due to elastic restrictions, making braces much less common than belts today. Socks traditionally match shoes or trouser legs, preferably mid-calf to knee-height, predominantly cotton or wool though luxury versions incorporate silk and cashmere blends. Neckties, wristwatches, pocket squares, cufflinks, tie clips, bow ties, lapel pins, and hats complete traditional suit accessories. Women's skirt suits follow similar guidelines but allow greater color variety including darks, pastels, and gem tones, often paired with buttoned-up collared blouses.
England, Italy, Spain, and France led 20th-century suit design, producing slim-fitting mohair and sharkskin styles widely imitated by mod subcultures and revived during late 2000s through mid-2010s associations with James Bond and Don Draper from Mad Men. Mediterranean regions consider suits impractical without constant air conditioning, leading many non-conservative businesses to adopt casual clothing even for formal meetings. Eastern European nations integrate Western fashion alongside cultural elements like Georgia's Chokha, Hungary's Bocskai suit, and Ukraine's embroidered Vyshyvanka shirts expressing national identity. Mexico honors the Charro Suit as a national emblem while Jamaica favors the two-piece Kariba suit designed for tropical comfort. Nigeria's senator suit combines tailored tunics with matching trousers, incorporating African textiles featuring distinct colors and embroidery patterns. Japan adopted British-style western suits following the Meiji restoration, developing salaryman culture associations renowned for high-quality craftsmanship and fitted precision cuts. Communist China encouraged Mao suits for their egalitarian design, while post-independence India promoted Nehru suits made from khadi supporting local textile industries. The Beatles' adoption of five-button Nehru suits influenced British mod subculture in the 1960s before fading from Western fashion after 2010.
Common questions
When did King Charles II decree the start of the suit in 17th-century England?
King Charles II decreed that men in his court would wear a long coat, waistcoat, and knee breeches instead of elaborate embroidered gowns during the 17th century. This shift marked the beginning of what we now call the suit, transforming formal court attire into something more practical for daily life.
How many hours does it take to complete a custom bespoke suit process?
Custom bespoke processes can take tailors up to 80 hours to complete. The work involves multiple basted fittings where half-made coats are tried on repeatedly before final construction.
What is the weight range for winter wool fabrics used in suits?
Winter wools weigh between 12 to 14 ounces per square yard. Three-season varieties measure 10 to 11 ounces, while summer fabrics reach just 7 to 8 ounces.
Who started the tradition of leaving the bottom button of a suit unfastened?
The convention of leaving both suit and waistcoat bottom buttons undone was attributed to King Edward VII. This practice preserves jacket lines and drape.
Which countries led 20th-century suit design and produced slim-fitting styles?
England, Italy, Spain, and France led 20th-century suit design. These nations produced slim-fitting mohair and sharkskin styles widely imitated by mod subcultures and revived during late 2000s through mid-2010s associations with James Bond and Don Draper from Mad Men.