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— CH. 1 · THE EMPEROR'S WALLED CITY —

Shahjahanabad

~4 min read · Ch. 1 of 6
6 sections
  • In 1648, the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan ordered his chief architect Ustad Ahmad Lahori to construct a new capital city. This project transformed the site north of earlier Delhi settlements into a walled metropolis named Shahjahanabad. The construction effort spanned from 1638 until its completion in 1649. The city served as the seat of power for the Mughal Empire for over two centuries. It remained the imperial capital until the fall of the dynasty in 1857. The original design featured a quarter-circle shape with the Red Fort at its focal point. A massive wall originally made of mud surrounded the entire area before being replaced by red stone in 1657.

  • Following the revolt of 1857, the British Raj shifted their administrative center away from the volatile old city. They moved the capital of British-controlled territories to Calcutta in Bengal. This relocation lasted until 1911 when the decision was made to build Lutyens' Delhi just south-west of the historic core. The older city began to be called Old Delhi to distinguish it from this new national government seat. The inauguration of New Delhi took place formally in 1931. During the colonial era, the British also constructed the State Bank of India branch building and several churches including St. James Church near Kashmiri Gate. The Old Delhi Railway Station opened in 1903 and mimicked the architectural style of the nearby Red Fort.

  • The city walls enclosed approximately four square kilometers and featured fourteen distinct gates. These gates included Dilli's gates and windows as well as specific entries like Nigambodh Gate leading to the Yamuna River. Other notable gates were Kashmiri Gate to the north and Mori Gate further north. The Kabuli gate stood to the west while the Lahori gate sat close to the Sadar Railway station. Ajmeri Gate led southwest toward Ghaziuddin Khan's Madrassa and Connaught Place. Turkman Gate connected to pre-Shahjahan remains including the tomb of Shah Turkman Bayabani. Delhi Gate ran south to Feroz Shah Kotla. The surrounding walls were originally wide and tall before being replaced by red stone in 1657. In the Mughal period, these gates remained locked at night for security purposes.

  • The first wholesale market of Old Delhi opened as a hardware market in Chawri Bazaar in 1840. A second market specializing in dry fruits, spices, and herbs emerged at Khari Baoli in 1850. The Phool Mandi flower market of Daryaganj was established in 1869 despite serving only a small geographical area. Today, dense population keeps this flower market of great importance. Chandni Chowk served as a significant route for Mughal imperial processions hosting grand displays of emperors. The street square historically included canals engineered to reflect moonlight though these have since been removed. North of the main street lies the mansion of Begum Samru now called Bhagirath Palace. South of the street is Dariba Kalan, a dense residential area connecting the market with the Jama Masjid.

  • Karim's restaurant near the Jama Masjid stands as the city's most famous culinary destination today. Haji Karimuddin moved back to Delhi in 1911 with inspiration to open a Dhaba for coronation visitors. He established the Karim Hotel in Gali Kababian in 1933 after his family was displaced following the Revolt of 1857. Pandit Gaya Prasad shifted from Agra to Delhi in 1876 seeking a better life and set up a single shop selling hot paranthas. Eventually Paranthe wali Gali came to house sixteen shops run by the families of Pandit Gaya Prasad. Kallu Nihari has served millions of portions of traditional meat stew since it opened in 1990 by Mohammed Rafiquddin. Banta drinks survive in Old Delhi since 1872 using glass bottles patented by Engineer Hiram Codd in London.

  • Jama Masjid remains India's largest mosque standing tall in the midst of the old city. Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib marks the site where the ninth Sikh Guru was beheaded on the 11th of November 1675. The Lal Mandir serves as Delhi's oldest Jain temple while Fatehpuri Masjid stands nearby. Zinat-ul Masjid in Daryaganj was built-in 1710 by one of Aurangzeb's daughters. Many historical mansions or havelis remain including Dharampura Haveli which is now a restored heritage hotel. The Haveli of Mirza Ghalib sits in Gali Qasim Jan within Ballimaran. Jawaharlal Nehru was married in 1916 at the Haksar Haveli located in Bazar Sitaram. Pervez Musharraf former president of Pakistan was born in Kucha Chelan known as Kucha Chehle Ameeran.

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Common questions

When was Shahjahanabad constructed and by whom?

Shahjahanabad was ordered to be built in 1648 by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. The construction project spanned from 1638 until its completion in 1649.

What happened to Shahjahanabad after the revolt of 1857?

Following the revolt of 1857, the British Raj shifted their administrative center away from the city. They moved the capital of British-controlled territories to Calcutta in Bengal before deciding to build Lutyens' Delhi just south-west of the historic core in 1911.

How many gates did the walls of Shahjahanabad feature and what were some examples?

The city walls enclosed approximately four square kilometers and featured fourteen distinct gates. Notable gates included Kashmiri Gate to the north, Mori Gate further north, Kabuli gate to the west, and Turkman Gate which connected to pre-Shahjahan remains including the tomb of Shah Turkman Bayabani.

Which markets opened in Shahjahanabad during the nineteenth century?

The first wholesale market of Old Delhi opened as a hardware market in Chawri Bazaar in 1840. A second market specializing in dry fruits, spices, and herbs emerged at Khari Baoli in 1850 while the Phool Mandi flower market of Daryaganj was established in 1869.

What famous restaurants operate within Shahjahanabad today?

Karim's restaurant near the Jama Masjid stands as the city's most famous culinary destination today. Kallu Nihari has served millions of portions of traditional meat stew since it opened in 1990 by Mohammed Rafiquddin.