Skip to content
— CH. 1 · INTRODUCTION —

Ocean

9 min listen · Ch. 1 of 7
7 sections
  • The ocean covers approximately 70.8% of Earth and holds 97% of the planet's water. It originated photosynthesis, gave Earth its atmospheric oxygen, and still supplies half of it. The word itself comes from Oceanus, the elder of the Titans in classical Greek mythology. Ancient Greeks and Romans believed him to be the divine personification of an enormous river encircling the world.

    This single body of salt water is the primary component of Earth's hydrosphere. It acts as a huge reservoir of heat for Earth's energy budget. It anchors the carbon cycle and the water cycle, forming the basis for climate and weather worldwide. Most of Earth's animals and protist life shelter within it.

    How did this water arrive, and where does it go? Why is the surface warm while the deep stays near freezing? What lives in water no sunlight reaches, and what happens as humans pour carbon into it? Scientists have mapped just over 26% of the ocean floor at high resolution as of 2024. By some estimates only 5% of it has been explored.

  • Scientists believe a sizable quantity of water sat in the very material that formed Earth. When the planet was less massive during formation, water molecules escaped its gravity more easily, a process called atmospheric escape. During planetary formation Earth possibly held magma oceans.

    Outgassing, volcanic activity, and meteorite impacts produced an early atmosphere of carbon dioxide, nitrogen, and water vapor. These gases accumulated over millions of years. After Earth's surface cooled significantly, the vapor condensed into the first oceans. Those early oceans might have been far hotter than today and appeared green from high iron content.

    Rock holds the timeline. A sample of pillow basalt, formed during an underwater eruption, came from the Isua Greenstone Belt and shows water existed 3.8 billion years ago. In the Nuvvuagittuq Greenstone Belt in Quebec, Canada, rocks dated by one study at 3.8 billion years and by another at 4.28 billion years carry evidence of water. In August 2020, researchers proposed enough water to fill the oceans may have always been present, with greenhouse gases keeping the seas unfrozen when the young Sun shone at only 70% of its current luminosity.

  • Seawater covers about 361,000,000 square kilometers, and its furthest pole of inaccessibility is Point Nemo. This spot in the South Pacific, known as the spacecraft cemetery, sits roughly 2,688 kilometers from the nearest land. By convention the World Ocean splits into five: the Pacific, Atlantic, Indian, Arctic, and Southern. The Pacific leads in area at 46.6% and the Arctic trails at 4.3%.

    The five-ocean model only fully crystallized in the early 21st century. The Southern Ocean, delineated by the Antarctic Circumpolar Current, won recognition from the U.S. Board on Geographic Names in 1999 and the International Hydrographic Organization in 2000. The contemporary idea of one continuous World Ocean came earlier, coined by the Russian oceanographer Yuly Shokalsky in the early 20th century.

    A sea differs from an ocean by being smaller and partly or wholly bordered by land, like the North Sea or the Red Sea. In medieval Europe the World Sea encircled the mainland of Europe, Asia, and Africa, excluding the Mediterranean, Black, and Caspian Seas. Today the Black and Caspian seas still occupy oceanic basins of their own.

  • In mid-ocean, magma is constantly thrust through the seabed between adjoining plates to build mid-oceanic ridges. Convection currents in the mantle drive the two plates apart. Nearer the coasts, one oceanic plate may slide beneath another in a process called subduction, carving deep trenches. The movement proceeds in jerks that cause earthquakes, while forced-up magma raises underwater mountains and chains of volcanic islands.

    Every ocean basin carries a mid-ocean ridge. Together they form the global mid-oceanic ridge system, the longest mountain range in the world. Its longest continuous stretch runs 65,000 kilometers, several times longer than the Andes, the longest continental range.

    The Mariana Trench, in the Pacific near the Northern Mariana Islands, holds the deepest region of the ocean. Its maximum depth has been estimated at 10,971 meters. The British naval vessel Challenger II surveyed the trench in 1951 and named the deepest part the Challenger Deep. In 1960, the Trieste reached the bottom, carrying a crew of two men. The average depth of all oceans is 3,688 meters, and nearly half the world's marine waters lie over 3,000 meters deep.

  • The photic zone starts at the surface and reaches the depth at which light intensity falls to only 1% of the surface value, about 200 meters in the open ocean. Here phytoplankton use light, water, carbon dioxide, and nutrients to make organic matter, which makes this the most biodiverse layer. Below it lies the mesopelagic twilight zone, then the aphotic deep ocean where no sunlight reaches. Hydrothermal vents supply energy in that darkness.

    In the tropics, surface temperatures can rise above 30 degrees Celsius, while near the poles equilibrium with sea ice holds near minus 2 degrees Celsius. Because the cold deep layer contains the bulk of the water, the average temperature of the world ocean is 3.9 degrees Celsius. Boundaries called thermoclines, haloclines, and pycnoclines separate warm, light surface water from dense, cold deep water.

    Constant circulation creates ocean currents, driven by temperature and salinity differences, wind, and the Coriolis effect. The Gulf Stream, Kuroshio Current, Agulhas Current, and Antarctic Circumpolar Current move enormous volumes of water and heat. At depth, the thermohaline circulation takes over, and water at the bottom can stay isolated from the surface for hundreds or even a few thousand years. Modern observations suggest the Atlantic meridional overturning circulation has weakened since the preindustrial era, and projections in 2021 expect it to weaken further across the 21st century.

  • The average ocean water chlorinity is about 19.2 per mille, giving an average salinity around 34.7 per mille. The Mediterranean Sea, where evaporation outpaces precipitation, runs saltier at 38 per mille. Salinity climbs where evaporation dominates and falls where rain prevails, and observations between 1950 and 2019 show salty regions growing saltier while fresh regions grow fresher.

    Seawater carries dissolved oxygen, carbon dioxide, and nitrogen, all more soluble in colder water than warmer. Photosynthesis at the surface releases oxygen and consumes carbon dioxide, making the oceans a major carbon sink. As deep water circulates the globe, sinking organic matter decomposes, lowering oxygen and raising carbon dioxide and creating oxygen minimum zones.

    The global mean surface pH now sits roughly between 8.05 and 8.08, slightly alkaline. It held near 8.2 across the past 300 million years, then fell from about 8.15 to 8.05 between 1950 and 2020 as atmospheric carbon dioxide passed 410 parts per million in 2020. This is ocean acidification, driven mainly by fossil fuel emissions. Elements linger for vastly different spans: chloride has a residence time of 100,000,000 years, while iron lasts only about 200 years.

  • The ocean is known to host over 230,000 species and may hold perhaps over two million. Life within it evolved 3 billion years before life on land. Most animal phyla have marine species, from sponges and corals to octopus, whales, and the seven species of sea turtles. Seabirds, penguins, and pelicans feed on marine animals and spend most of their lives on the water.

    Many of the world's goods move by ship between seaports, especially across the Atlantic and around the Pacific Rim. Containerization, using standard lockable boxes on purpose-built ships, slashed shipping costs and fueled the rise of globalization in the mid-to-late 20th century. The biggest global commercial fishery targets anchovies, Alaska pollock, and tuna. A 2020 report by the FAO stated that in 2017-34 percent of the world's marine fish stocks were classified as overfished.

    Protection is tightening. Marine protected areas guard the ecosystems humans depend on, and in 2021 a framework from 43 expert scientists let researchers evaluate their levels of protection. In March 2023, a legally binding High Seas Treaty was signed and adopted by all 193 United Nations Member States. Its central achievement is the power to create marine protected areas in international waters, opening the path to protect 30% of the oceans by 2030.

Continue Browsing

All sources

157 references cited across the entry

  1. 8ocean, nOxford English Dictionary
  2. 9oceanMerriam-Webster
  3. 11JournalThe biomass distribution on EarthBar-On YM, Phillips R, Milo R — June 2018
  4. 12How much oxygen comes from the ocean?National Ocean Service. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration U.S. Department of Commerce — 26 February 2021
  5. 14NewsMapping an ocean of speciesBob Drogin — August 2, 2009
  6. 15SeaMerriam-webster.com
  7. 17WordNet Search – seaPrinceton University
  8. 18What's the difference between an ocean and a sea?National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
  9. 19BookRising Sea Levels: An Introduction to Cause and ImpactH. Janin et al. — McFarland, Incorporated, Publishers — 2012
  10. 20BookEcocritical Shakespeare (Literary and Scientific Cultures of Early Modernity)Bruckner, Lynne and Dan Brayton — Ashgate Publishing, Ltd — 2011
  11. 21Is It Ocean Or Oceans?Christine Ro — 2020-02-03
  12. 22OceanSciencedaily.com
  13. 24JournalMaps of the whole world oceanAthelstan F. Spilhaus — July 1942
  14. 27Origin of water in the terrestrial planetsMichael J. Drake — 2005
  15. 29NASA Astrobiology2017-06-05
  16. 30Oceans, Origin ofDaniele L. Pinti et al. — Springer Berlin Heidelberg — 2014
  17. 31JournalPre-3750 Ma supracrustal rocks from the Nuvvuagittuq supracrustal belt, northern QuébecN.L. Cates et al. — March 2007
  18. 32JournalFormation age and metamorphic history of the Nuvvuagittuq Greenstone BeltJonathan O'Neil et al. — November 2012
  19. 34NewsUnexpected abundance of hydrogen in meteorites reveals the origin of Earth's waterAmerican Association for the Advancement of Science — 27 August 2020
  20. 36Our Changing Sun: The Role of Solar Nuclear Evolution and Magnetic Activity on Earth's Atmosphere and ClimateE. F. Guinan et al. — Astronomical Society of the Pacific — 2002
  21. 39Earth Is a Water WorldYvette Smith — 2021-06-07
  22. 40Water-Worlds2022-05-20
  23. 41JournalOcean worlds explorationJonathan I. Lunine — Elsevier BV — 2017
  24. 43JournalAncient Earth was a water worldPaul Voosen — American Association for the Advancement of Science (AAAS) — March 9, 2021
  25. 52Limits of Oceans and Seas, 3rd editionInternational Hydrographic Organization — 1953
  26. 53BookRegional Oceanography: an IntroductionMatthias Tomczak et al. — Daya Publishing House — 2003
  27. 54Arctic OceanNed Allen Ostenso
  28. 56Plate tectonicsPidwirny, Michael — 28 March 2013
  29. 57Plate Tectonics: The MechanismUniversity of California Museum of Paleontology
  30. 61BookPrinciples of Physical GeographyF. J. Monkhouse — Hodder & Stoughton — 1975
  31. 62BookThe Penguin Dictionary of Physical GeographyJohn B. Whittow — Penguin Books — 1984
  32. 64The Water Cycle: The OceansUS Geological Survey — September 8, 2019
  33. 66JournalSpatial and Temporal Distribution of Clouds Observed by MODIS Onboard the Terra and Aqua SatellitesMichael D. King et al. — Institute of Electrical and Electronics Engineers (IEEE) — 2013
  34. 67BookEncyclopedia of the OceansStow, Dorrik — Oxford University Press — 2004
  35. 69BookWind Generated Ocean WavesI. R. Young — Elsevier — 1999
  36. 72JournalWere extreme waves in the Rockall Trough the largest ever recorded?N. P. Holliday et al. — 2006
  37. 74Ocean wavesNational Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
  38. 75Life of a TsunamiUS Geological Survey
  39. 76Physics of TsunamisNational Tsunami Warning Center of the USA
  40. 77TidesNational Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
  41. 78Tides and Water LevelsNOAA Ocean Service Education
  42. 79Tidal amplitudesUniversity of Guelph
  43. 81Weird Science: Extreme Tidal RangesUniversity of Hawaiʻi
  44. 83Deep-Sea FishesJeffrey C. Drazen — School of Ocean and Earth Science and Technology, the University of Hawaiʻi at Mānoa
  45. 85OER Depth Comparison Maps EEZCalculated with GEBCO_2019 grid. — NOAA Office of Ocean Exploration and Research — May 2020
  46. 86BookThe Oceans and Climate, Second EditionGrant R. Bigg — Cambridge University Press — 2003
  47. 87What is a thermocline?US Department of Commerce
  48. 88Volume of Earth's OceansSyed Qadri — 2003
  49. 89JournalThe volume of Earth's oceanMatthew Charette et al. — 2010
  50. 90Ocean CirculationGordon, Arnold — Columbia University — 2004
  51. 93BookAtmosphere, Weather, and ClimateRoger Graham Barry et al. — Routledge — 2003
  52. 95BookOcean circulation: wind-driven and thermohaline processesRui Xin Huang — Cambridge University Press — 2010
  53. 96Sea iceJeffries, Martin O. — Britannica Online Encyclopedia — 2012
  54. 97How Does Arctic Sea Ice Form and Decay?Peter Wadhams — NOAA — 1 January 2003
  55. 98BookOn Sea IceWilly F. Weeks — University of Alaska Press — 2010
  56. 99BookSea Ice – Physics and Remote SensingMohammed Shokr et al. — John Wiley & Sons, Inc. — 2015
  57. 101What is a current?NOAA NOAA — National Ocean Service
  58. 104World Ocean Atlas 2009Olga Baranova
  59. 105BookMarine geochemistryR. Chester et al. — Wiley/Blackwell — 2012
  60. 110BookWorld Ocean Atlas 2005, Volume 3: Dissolved Oxygen, Apparent Oxygen Utilization, and Oxygen SaturationH.E. Garcia et al. — NOAA Atlas NESDIS 63, U.S. Government Printing Office — 2006
  61. 111BookSeawaterElsevier — 1995
  62. 115Ocean carbon cycle5 June 2009
  63. 116JournalDeclining oxygen in the global ocean and coastal watersDenise Breitburg et al. — 2018-01-05
  64. 118JournalOcean acidification in emission-driven temperature stabilization scenarios: the role of TCRE and non- greenhouse gasesJens Terhaar et al. — 2023
  65. 120Ocean AcidificationNational Geographic — 27 April 2017
  66. 121JournalOcean acidification in emission-driven temperature stabilization scenarios: the role of TCRE and non-CO2 greenhouse gasesJens Terhaar et al. — 2023
  67. 122JournalThe Impacts of Ocean Acidification on Marine Ecosystems and Reliant Human CommunitiesScott C. Doney et al. — 2020-10-17
  68. 123BookChemical Oceanography and the Marine Carbon CycleSteven Emerson et al. — Cambridge University Press — 2008
  69. 129JournalThe Oceanic Phosphorus CycleAdina Paytan et al. — 2007
  70. 131JournalRecent revisions of phosphate rock reserves and resources: a critiqueJ. D. Edixhoven et al. — 2014-12-19
  71. 132JournalSoil and human security in the 21st centuryR. Amundson et al. — 2015
  72. 134BookBiology: Concepts & Connections
  73. 136JournalA Global Map of Human Impact on Marine EcosystemsBenjamin S. Halpern et al. — 2008
  74. 137BookMarine Cargo Operations: a guide to stowageSauerbier, Charles L. — Cornell Maritime Press — 2004
  75. 141What is Ocean EnergyOcean Energy Systems — 2014
  76. 143Offshore Wind Power 2010BTM Consult — 22 November 2010
  77. 144How offshore drilling worksLamb, Robert — 2011
  78. 145The United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea (A historical perspective)United Nations Division for Ocean Affairs and the Law of the Sea
  79. 146BookEnvironmental Governance.J. P. Evans — Taylor & Francis — 2011
  80. 147JournalRecent pace of change in human impact on the world's oceanB.S. Halpern et al. — 2019
  81. 151JournalPublic perceptions of ocean health and marine protection: Drivers of support for Oregon's marine reservesPaul Manson et al. — 15 February 2021
  82. 152JournalA Global Deal For Nature: Guiding principles, milestones, and targetsE. Dinerstein et al. — 2019
  83. 154JournalThe MPA Guide: A framework to achieve global goals for the oceanKirsten Grorud-Colvert et al. — 2021
  84. 157NewsNewly Adopted UN High Seas Treaty Gives Ocean a 'Fighting Chance'Cristen Hemingway Jaynes — 20 June 2023