In 1633, the elder brother of Empress Nur Jahan commissioned a garden that would become the second-largest Mughal garden in the Kashmir Valley, yet its creation sparked a family feud that nearly destroyed it. Asif Khan, a powerful noble and Prime Minister to Emperor Jahangir, designed Nishat Bagh on the eastern bank of Dal Lake with the Zabarwan Mountains standing as a silent, majestic backdrop. The name itself, derived from Urdu, translates to Garden of Joy, a fitting title for a place intended to bring delight to the Mughal court. However, the garden's history is not merely one of architectural triumph but also of political intrigue and personal jealousy. When the garden was completed, the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, who was Asif Khan's son-in-law, was so overwhelmed by the grandeur and beauty of the terraced landscape that he reportedly expressed his delight three times, hoping Asif Khan would gift him the property. When no such offer was made, Shah Jahan's pride was wounded, and he ordered the water supply to be cut off, leaving the garden deserted and Asif Khan heartbroken.
The Water War
The story of Nishat Bagh's survival hinges on a single act of rebellion by a servant who dared to restore the water flow against imperial orders. While Asif Khan rested under the shade of a tree on one of the terraces, his servant boldly turned on the water supply from the nearby Shalimar Bagh, allowing the fountains to sing once more. The sound of water startled the noble, who immediately ordered the disconnection of the supply, fearing the Emperor's wrath for such disobedience. Yet, when Shah Jahan heard of the incident, he was not angry but rather impressed by the servant's loyalty to his master. The Emperor approved of the act and ordered the full restoration of water rights to Asif Khan, his Prime Minister and father-in-law. This incident transformed the garden from a symbol of political tension into a testament to the resilience of human ingenuity and the complex dynamics of Mughal court life. The garden, once abandoned, was reborn, and its waters flowed again, carrying with them the echoes of a family drama that could have ended in tragedy.Twelve Terraces of Fate
The layout of Nishat Bagh was a radical departure from the traditional square Chahar Bagh design, adapting instead to the steep hillside of the Kashmir Valley. The garden features twelve terraces, each representing one of the Zodiacal signs, a concept borrowed from Persian garden design but modified to fit the topographic conditions. The plan was rectangular, stretching east to west, with a water source originating at the top of the hill and cascading down to the Dal Lake. The first terrace serves as a water collection chamber, while the second terrace, considered the most impressive, features five fountains and twenty-three niches in an arched recess behind the cascade. Originally, lighted lamps were placed in these niches, creating a magical spectacle at night. The third terrace, with its arched open niches and a dismantled two-storied pavilion, leads to the fourth terrace, which has two levels and a square pool. The fifth terrace offers a stone bench for viewing the channel, and the sixth terrace features a distinctive paving pattern. The seventh terrace continues the same pattern, while the eighth is merely a water channel or chute. The ninth terrace, at the end of two stairways, has an octagonal bench and a pool with nine fountains. The tenth terrace has only a water chute with fountains, and the eleventh terrace, reached via engraved paths, boasts twenty-five fountains in a pool. The final terrace, the Zenana chamber, is covered by a high wall with a façade of blind arches, and two small octagonal towers provide views of the lower terraces.