Mughal clothing

• 1. Imperial Silhouette And Garments

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  In the early 1600s, a miniature portrait of Emperor Jahangir shows him wearing a Jama robe that reaches his knees. This side-fastening frock coat features a tight-fitting bodice and a nipped-in waist before flaring out at the skirt. Akbar restyled this garment by removing slits and rounding the hemline to create a formal gown for court life. The word Jama means garment or robe in Persian, yet its form evolved from Central Asian roots into distinctly Indian styles under Mughal rule. Hindus fastened their Jama on the left side while Muslims tied theirs on the right-hand side, though both groups wore similar cuts. Akbar introduced the takauchiya, a versatile costume stitched from silk, gold, or woolen material suitable for summer and winter climates. He also popularized the doshala, a double-faced shawl with two fabrics attached at the underside so no wrong side existed. These changes marked a shift from Central Asian traditions toward Indian conditions as the empire matured.

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• 2. Textile Economy And Materials

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  Malmal, or muslin, was a cotton cloth highly valued across Europe, Africa, the Middle East, and Asia during the Mughal period. Spinners in Bengal worked early mornings or humid afternoons when fibers were most pliable for spinning thread. Weaving twenty yards of muslin could take up to six months, making it as expensive as silk despite being cotton. Calico resembled muslin but was slightly thicker and heavier, often mistaken for the finer fabric by outsiders. Thin cotton cloths like these were worn in hot weather, sometimes weighing less than an ounce each. Some garments were so fine they could pass through a finger ring, earning poetic names like ab-i-rawan meaning running water. Fabrics were regularly scented with rose water before use. Dyeing processes involved submerging cloth in indigo solution, rinsing it, then washing with diluted sulfuric acid to dissolve residual calcium carbonate. Plants like Citrifolia root produced red dye while indigo created blue hues for textiles.

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• 3. Headwear And Turban Ornaments

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  During Akbar's reign, the typical turban wrapped directly on the head without a Karakul hat, featuring a tight bundle at the front and ascending slope backward. A turband band or sash kept the turban in place, usually made from different material than the turban itself. Only the emperor, his intimate relations, and select entourage members wore royal turban ornaments known generically as sarpech. Jahangir initiated a softer style with a weighed-down plume holding a large pearl that encouraged gentle droop from the base. By Aurangzeb's time this form became more ubiquitous across the court. Shah Jahan introduced an entirely mineralogical version of kalgi, an ornate brooch where stylized plumes and stems composed gems set in gold backed by polychrome enamel. Popular head ornaments included Jigha, Sarpatti, Kalgi, Mukut, Turra, and Kalangi for men. Women adorned various head pieces such as Binduli, Kotbiladar, Sekra, Siphul, Tikka, and Jhumar alongside braid ornaments forming important parts of their headdress.

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• 4. Footwear Traditions And Design

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  Jahangir, who lived between 1569 and 1627, is credited with popularizing Mojari footwear among the nobility during his reign. These slippers were ornate, often woven with gold-silver zari thread and encrusted with jewels to display wealth and power. A distinctive curled front design illustrated the luxurious quality unique to Mughal shoes. The Jhuti was Persian in style and served as the most common shoe worn by visitors to Akbar's court. Juttis originally made of pure leather featured exquisite embroidery and embellishments on both soles and uppers frequently embroidered with gold and silver especially for Muslim wearers. Other footwear types included Kafsh worn by nobles and kings, Charhvan with curling tongue fixed to toe, Salim Shahi decorated in gold, and Khurd Nau very lightweight made from kid leather. Lucknow became known for its shoes featuring threading embroidery with gold and silver aughi during this era. Modern artisans still manufacture these leather juttis in extensive range of colors and designs today.

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• 5. Women's Fashion And Beauty Rituals

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  Princesses always decorated hands and feet red with mehendi despite great cost since it also functioned as remedy for skin irritations. Eyebrows were arched symmetrically while Kajal applied to eyelids created defined looks for women of imperial courts. Teeth whitened with missi before betel leaf used to redden lips sweeten breath serve deodorant purposes. Nath worn on nose studded with diamonds usually gifted bride husband formed part of elaborate beauty rituals practiced daily. Women wore multiple layers including tight fitting bodice stopping short navel paired with peshwaz added top layer hitting knees lower fastened closely waist V-shaped neckline opening front decorated gold. Lower half covered either tight pants tunban or izar la hengu styled like lungi attached ends band sewn top drawstrings decorated length pearls jewels. Only costliest clothes cotton silk wool used zenana multiple costume changes day often outfit worn once then given away. Long gowns qaba kashmiri shawl used cold weather Jamawars suits wool flowers interwoven wool silk.

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• 6. Jewelry Craftsmanship And Symbolism

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  Mughal paintings from Akbar's reign gave jewelry art renewed vigor developing range designs documented through chronicles and visual records. Women known have eight complete sets jewelry including two-inch-wide armlets worn above elbows bracelets pearls wrist stacked high enough impede access pulse many rings mirror ring worn right thumb customary nearly all inhabitants Zenana strings pearls fifteen times metal bands strings pearls bottom legs ornaments hanging middle head shape star sun moon flower. Turban jewelry considered privilege Emperor constant change influences Europe clearly witnessed design turban jewelry. Akbar stuck Iranian trends keeping feather plume upright very front turban Jahangir initiated softer style weighed down plume large pearl Aurangzeb form became more ubiquitous. Turbans usually heavily set jewels fixed firmly gem set kalangi aigrette similar style Ottoman aigrette worn Sultan popular head ornaments men Jigha Sarpatti Sarpech Kalgi Mukut Turra Kalangi women adorned variety head ornaments Binduli Kotbiladar Sekra Siphul Tikka Jhumar braid ornaments constituted important part women head ornaments ear ornaments quite popular Mughal times represented earrings often period Mor-Bhanwar Bali Jhumkas Kanphool Pipal pattra papal patti known earrings period neck ornaments different kinds pearls precious stones worn men women Latkan amala necklace Mala Guluband Hans Har Hasuli nose ornaments worn solely women phul besar laung balu nath Phuli.

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