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— CH. 1 · INTRODUCTION —

Maine

14 min listen · Ch. 1 of 8
8 sections
  • Maine sits at the far northeastern corner of the contiguous United States, a place where the Atlantic Ocean has drowned ancient valleys into bays and turned mountain peaks into offshore islands. It is the only state in the country that shares a border with just one other state. It is larger in area than the combined landmass of the other five New England states put together. And yet, with a population that only recently reached an estimated 1,400,000, it remains one of the most rural, most sparsely settled places anywhere east of the Mississippi River.

    How did this rugged corner of the continent come to be a state at all? Why did its people fight so hard to break away from Massachusetts, and why did the U.S. Congress tie that moment of independence to one of the most explosive political bargains in American history? What forces shaped a coastline so jagged and complex that its tidal edge stretches nearly 3,500 miles even though its ocean frontage is barely 230? And how does a place this remote produce wild blueberries, lobster, Christmas trees, and some of the most celebrated food in the country?

    The answers run through 12,000 years of human life, through Viking trade routes and French missions, through border wars and constitutional compromises, through poet Edna St. Vincent Millay and industrialist John D. Rockefeller Jr., through the longest tidal whirlpool in the Western Hemisphere and the only national park in New England.

  • For roughly 12,000 years, since glaciers retreated from this landscape at the close of the last ice age, human beings have lived in what is now Maine. The earliest inhabitants were Algonquian-speaking peoples: the Passamaquoddy, Maliseet, Penobscot, Androscoggin, and Kennebec, among others. Some of these communities had adapted to a semi-sedentary life in Iroquois-inspired permanent settlements. Those along the coast moved seasonally, wintering inland and moving to the shore each summer.

    European contact may have begun as early as around 1000 CE, when Vikings are believed to have encountered the Penobscot people in present-day Hancock County, most likely through trade. If that contact is ever confirmed, it would make Maine the site of the earliest documented European presence in the entire United States. The most concrete physical evidence is the Maine Penny, an 11th-century Norwegian coin turned up at a Native American dig site in 1954.

    The first confirmed European settlement came in 1604, when French explorer Pierre Dugua, Sieur de Mons, established a colony on Saint Croix Island. His party included Samuel de Champlain. The French claimed the whole region as part of Acadia. Three years later, the Plymouth Company planted the first English settlement at the Popham Colony in 1607, the same year colonists were founding Jamestown, Virginia. The Popham settlers lasted just 14 months before returning home.

    The 17th century was defined by violent contest. Maine experienced sustained warfare among French forces, English settlers, and allied Indigenous nations. In early 1692, Abenaki raiders attacked the town of York, killing roughly 100 English settlers and taking an estimated 80 more hostage. The Androscoggin tribe, driven out of central Maine in 1690 during King William's War, were eventually relocated to what is now Odanak, Canada. By the time Maine entered the 18th century, only about half a dozen European settlements had managed to survive.

  • Maine was not its own colony, but a territory absorbed into Massachusetts, physically separated from the rest of that commonwealth and never fully integrated with it. Longstanding frustration over land speculation and the slow pace of settlement drove a group of Maine residents and their allies to force a vote in the Massachusetts Assembly in 1807 on whether Maine should be permitted to leave. The vote failed.

    The War of 1812 inflamed those tensions. When British forces occupied the largely undefended eastern region of Maine with the stated aim of annexing it to Canada as the Colony of New Ireland, the Massachusetts legislature, dominated by pro-British merchants opposed to the war, refused to send help. That abandonment was not forgotten. By 1819, Massachusetts had agreed to permit secession, and voters across the rapidly growing region endorsed the separation the following year.

    On the 15th of March 1820, Maine was admitted to the Union as the 23rd state. The mechanism that made this possible was the Missouri Compromise, a congressional agreement that geographically restricted the spread of slavery and allowed the simultaneous admission of Missouri as a slave state. Maine's entry into the Union was bound, from the start, to the country's most irresolvable conflict.

    Maine's original state capital was Portland, its largest city. The capital was moved to the more centrally located Augusta in 1832. The final northern border with British North America remained unsettled for another two decades, not resolved until the Webster-Ashburton Treaty of 1842.

  • Geologists describe Maine's coastline as a "drowned coast," a landscape where rising sea levels have flooded former valleys into bays and submerged mountain ridges into chains of offshore islands. The process began at the end of the last ice age. As heavy glaciers melted, the underlying bedrock rebounded slightly, but not enough to keep pace with the encroaching ocean.

    Glaciers also left behind some of the state's most dramatic physical features. Somes Sound on Mount Desert Island, carved by ice and reaching depths of 175 feet, allows large ships to navigate almost its entire length. Nearby, Bubble Rock stands perched on the edge of Bubble Mountain in Acadia National Park. By analyzing the type of granite, geologists traced the boulder's origin to near Lucerne, about 30 miles away, carried there by glaciers.

    Maine's geographic superlatives accumulate quickly. The town of Lubec is the easternmost organized settlement in the United States. Its Quoddy Head Lighthouse is the closest point in the country to Africa and Europe. Moosehead Lake is the largest lake located entirely within New England. Mount Katahdin marks the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail, which runs south all the way to Springer Mountain, Georgia, and also marks the southern terminus of the new International Appalachian Trail, which when complete will reach Belle Isle, Newfoundland and Labrador.

    Over 80 percent of Maine's total area is forested or unclaimed, the highest proportion of any state in the country. In the far north, the Northwest Aroostook unorganized territory covers 2,668 square miles with a permanent population of just 10 people, or roughly one person for every 267 square miles. Also lying off the Downeast coast, Machias Seal Island remains one of four areas between the United States and Canada whose sovereignty is still formally in dispute.

  • The 20th Maine Volunteer Infantry Regiment, under Colonel Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain, held the Union Army's exposed left flank at Little Round Top during the Battle of Gettysburg, a position that, if lost, could have allowed Confederate forces to collapse the entire Union line.

    Maine's senators and congressmen shaped national history in ways that extended far beyond the state's population. Hannibal Hamlin, who served as both senator and briefly as governor, was Abraham Lincoln's first vice president, serving from 1861 to 1865 before being replaced by Andrew Johnson of Tennessee. Senator and Congressman James G. Blaine, known as the "Plumed Knight," served as Speaker of the House and as Secretary of State. In 1884, he was the Republican Party's presidential nominee, losing narrowly to Grover Cleveland.

    In 1948, Republican Margaret Chase Smith became the first woman elected to serve in both chambers of Congress. Two years later, in 1950, she delivered her Declaration of Conscience speech on the floor of the Senate, defending civil liberties against the tide of McCarthyism. Democrat Edmund Muskie served as governor, then senator, then as the vice-presidential running mate of Hubert Humphrey in 1968, and briefly as Secretary of State under President Jimmy Carter in 1980.

    Four U.S. Navy ships have carried the name USS Maine. The most famous was the armored cruiser sunk by an explosion on the 15th of February 1898, an event that directly precipitated the Spanish-American War. Maine politics have continued to resist easy categorization: the state uses ranked-choice voting, adopted by referendum in 2016, and has a long history of governors winning by plurality rather than majority.

  • Maine is the largest producer of lobster in the United States. In 2025, the state's commercial harvesters earned $619 million from their catch. Lobster has become so central to Maine's identity that it crowds out the fuller picture of a working fishing economy that also includes groundfishing, oyster cultivation, and a shrimp industry that has been on a government-mandated hold since 2014 because of dwindling Northern shrimp populations, though a limited pilot program resumed in 2025.

    On land, Maine is the country's top producer of wild lowbush blueberries. Preliminary USDA data from 2012 showed total blueberry production of more than 91,100,000 pounds across both wild and cultivated varieties. Commercial blueberry sellers in the state are required by law to keep transaction records and pay the state 1.5 cents per pound sold each season. Aroostook County, in the north, is known for its potato crop, which generates more than $166 million annually for the state.

    Maine's seaweed industry has grown sharply in recent years. In 2022, Maine seaweed farmers harvested over one million pounds, and that figure was projected to rise to 4.1 million pounds by 2025. Sixty percent of all American-grown seaweed comes from Maine.

    The state's 370 Christmas tree farms produce roughly 100,000 trees each year, generating an estimated $19 million in direct economic impact and supporting 800 jobs. Ninety percent of those trees are balsam firs, the only fir native to Maine. The tradition reaches back at least to 1860, when Thomas W. Jackson Jr. and his son Herbert A. Jackson of Portland were selling trees ranging from four to 25 feet tall in New York City.

  • In 2023, about 15,267,000 visitors spent more than $9 billion in Maine. That number does not capture the full scale of the state's outdoor appeal: in 2024, Maine's outdoor recreation industry alone generated $3.9 billion and employed more than 32,000 people.

    Acadia National Park, the only national park in New England, became part of the national park system in 1929. It draws more than 4 million visitors each year, and in 2024 those visitors spent $475 million in the Bar Harbor area where the park is located. The park owes part of its physical infrastructure to businessman John D. Rockefeller Jr., who purchased a summer home in Seal Harbor in 1910 and later spent $3.5 million developing the Carriage Roads within what is now the park.

    Portland has become the state's cultural anchor. In 2022, Portland's nonprofit arts and culture sector generated $86 million in economic activity. Bon Appetit magazine named Portland its Restaurant City of the Year in 2018. The city's 2016 population stood at 66,937, making it the most populous city in a state where almost 40 percent of all residents live within the Greater Portland metropolitan area.

    Henry David Thoreau climbed Katahdin in 1846 and returned to Maine twice more. His account of those journeys, published as The Maine Woods in 1864, drew national attention to the state's interior. Poet Edna St. Vincent Millay, from Rockland and Camden, captured the visual drama of Maine's coast in her poem "Renascence": forested slopes sweeping directly to the sea. That combination of literary and natural reputation has helped sustain an estimated 14 percent of Maine's housing stock as vacation homes, with Maine's lakes and ponds alone estimated at a total net value of $14.2 billion per year as of a 2024 study.

  • Maine has the highest percentage of French Americans of any state in the country. Most trace their roots to Canada, though some families have lived in the region since before the American Revolution. The northern county of Aroostook is part of a cultural region called Acadia that extends across the border into New Brunswick, a legacy of the original French colonial territory. Over a quarter of the populations of Lewiston, Waterville, and Biddeford identify as Franco-American.

    According to the 2010 census, Maine also had the highest percentage of non-Hispanic white residents of any U.S. state, at 94.4 percent. As of 2020, it has the highest proportion of residents aged 65 or older in the country, a demographic reality shaped by a long-term pattern of slow growth punctuated by a remarkable reversal in 2021 and 2022, when Maine recorded the highest ratio of arriving residents to departing residents of any state, at 1.8 arrivals for every departure.

    Today there are four federally recognized tribes in Maine, including the Mi'kmaq Nation. The rivers of central and eastern Maine support the last remaining wild populations of Atlantic salmon in the United States.

    The traditional Maine accent survives most strongly along the Down East and Midcoast regions. The local vocabulary reflects the landscape and the culture: "Downeast" refers specifically to the coastline of Washington and Hancock counties. "From away" describes any non-native. "Upta camp" signals a trip to somewhere more remote and rustic. These phrases point toward something durable about Maine's self-image: a place that is proud of its distance, its roughness, and the difficulty of getting there from anywhere else.

Common questions

When did Maine become a U.S. state?

Maine was admitted to the Union as the 23rd state on the 15th of March 1820. It became a state as part of the Missouri Compromise, which allowed the simultaneous admission of Missouri as a slave state while restricting the geographic spread of slavery.

What is Maine's population and how densely populated is it?

As of 2024, Maine's population was estimated at 1,400,000, the highest ever recorded for the state. It is the least densely populated state east of the Mississippi River, with a population density of 41.3 people per square mile, and over 80 percent of its land is forested or unclaimed.

Why is Maine known for lobster and blueberries?

Maine is the largest producer of lobster in the United States, with commercial harvesters earning $619 million in 2025. It is also the top U.S. producer of wild lowbush blueberries, with a total blueberry production of over 91,100,000 pounds recorded in preliminary 2012 USDA data.

What is the easternmost point in the contiguous United States and is it in Maine?

Yes, West Quoddy Head in the town of Lubec, Maine, is the easternmost point of land in the 48 contiguous states. Lubec is also the easternmost organized settlement in the country, and its Quoddy Head Lighthouse is the closest spot in the United States to Africa and Europe.

What is the only national park in New England and where is it located?

Acadia National Park, located near Bar Harbor, Maine, is the only national park in New England. It became part of the national park system in 1929 and attracts more than 4 million visitors each year; in 2024 those visitors spent $475 million in the Bar Harbor area.

Who were the first Europeans to settle in Maine?

The first confirmed European settlement in what is now Maine was established by French explorer Pierre Dugua, Sieur de Mons, on Saint Croix Island in 1604. His party included Samuel de Champlain. The first English settlement, the Popham Colony, was planted by the Plymouth Company in 1607 but lasted only 14 months before the colonists returned to Britain.

All sources

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  36. 140Downeaster ScheduleMay 20, 2019
  37. 143JournalCost of Voting in the American States: 2020Michael J. Pomante II et al. — December 15, 2020
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  42. 167An artisan grain industry takes root in MaineKathy O. Brozek — November 19, 2014
  43. 170The Good Life: The movement that changed MaineAbigail Curtis — April 1, 2014
  44. 177Van Allen joins Maine Press Association boardB. D. N. Community — 2026-05-01
  45. 186The 7 foods that made MaineSam Schipani — January 4, 2020
  46. 191JournalYork County to Offer Intercollegiate AthleticsAnna Allen — June 7, 2021
  47. 192UMFK, UMPI, UMM leave NAIA for new associationLarry Mahoney — June 18, 2011
  48. 193Bean's, But Make It FashionAlexandra Hall — 2020-10-02
  49. 19510 Pieces of Clothing Every Mainer OwnsLori Voornas — 2023-04-28
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