In the heart of Musashino, Tokyo, a neighborhood known for its cherry blossoms and quiet streets, lies a hidden red-light district that has thrived for decades between Tachikawa and Shinjuku. This area, centered around Kichijōji Station, is home to numerous cabarets, bars, and pink salons, creating a stark contrast to the family-friendly image of the surrounding community. The juxtaposition of these adult entertainment venues with the serene Inokashira Park and the bustling shopping district of Sun Road creates a unique urban tapestry that has drawn both residents and visitors for generations. The history of this duality dates back to the Great Fire of Meireki in 1657, when the original Kichijō-ji Temple was destroyed, forcing the relocation of its residents to the Musashino Plateau. The shogunate provided substitute lands named Reno and Mureno, and the new settlement was named Kichijōji Village, carrying forward the memory of the goddess Lakshmi, known as Kichijōten in Japan. This historical continuity of resilience and adaptation has shaped the neighborhood's identity, blending the sacred with the secular, the tranquil with the vibrant.
The Temple That Vanished
The name Kichijōji itself is a ghost of the past, derived from the Kichijō-ji Temple that once stood in Bunkyō City before being consumed by fire in 1657. The temple was named after the Hindu/Buddhist goddess Lakshmi, known as Kichijōten in Japan, and its destruction during the Great Fire of Meireki left a void that was filled by the resilience of its displaced residents. The shogunate rebuilt the area for daimyō residences, and the former residents of the temple's gate were granted rice stipends and house construction loans with a five-year limit. Among those who helped rebuild the eastern district of present-day Musashino were Kichijō-ji samurai Sato Sadaemon and Miyazaki Jinemon, who worked with local farmer Matsui Jurozaemon to establish the new community. The Tamagawa Aqueduct later transformed the previously poorly watered Musashino Plateau into vast farmland, and the neatly partitioned thin rectangular plots of land along Itsukaichi Kaidō became the foundation of the new Kichijōji Village. Despite the soil's lack of fertility, which turned all farmland into dry soil fields without wet rice fields, the residents' attachment to the former Kichijō-ji ensured the new fields retained the name Kichijōji Village, preserving a link to the past.The Shopping Street That Never Sleeps
Sun Road, the covered shopping street extending north from Kichijōji Station, is the economic heart of the neighborhood, offering a full range of shops, restaurants, bars, and coffee houses. This well-organized and clean area has become a popular center for shopping and leisure in the Tokyo metropolitan area, drawing visitors from across the region. Halfway up this shopping street stands the Buddhist temple Gessō-ji, complete with a graveyard, while at the northern end are Shinto shrines that host occasional festivals featuring amusements such as fishing for goldfish, sweet food stalls, and typical dishes. The area's nightlife is equally vibrant, with many restaurants, bars, izakaya, and live houses surrounding the station on the north, east, and south sides. This commercial vitality has been bolstered by the presence of anime and manga companies like Coamix and Bee Train, whose headquarters are located in Kichijōji. The neighborhood's ability to blend traditional elements with modern entertainment has made it a model for urban development, earning it the title of the number one place in Japan that Japanese would like to live every year since the 1990s according to polls by the magazine CNN GO.