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Jewellery
The oldest known jewellery was not created by modern humans but by hominin precursors living in Europe and North Africa over 100,000 years ago. Archaeologists discovered perforated shell beads in the Bizmoune cave near Essaouira, Morocco, dating to approximately 142,000 years ago, and similar perforated beads from Neanderthals in the Cueva de los Avions in Spain dated to 115,000 years ago. These early adornments, made from Nassarius shells, ostrich eggshells, and bone, served as tokens of identity and social connection long before the invention of writing. In Kenya, beads made from perforated ostrich eggshells have been dated to more than 40,000 years ago, while a decorated engraved pendant known as the Star Carr Pendant, found in North Yorkshire, dates to around 11,000 BC and is thought to be the oldest Mesolithic art in Britain. The Venus of Hohle Fels, a figurine with a perforation at the top, suggests that the concept of wearing objects for display or protection was deeply embedded in prehistoric life. These early pieces were not merely decorative but were functional, used to secure clothing or to mark the wearer's place within a community. The discovery of a female jewellery worker in a grave in Lower Austria in 2012 forced archaeologists to reconsider prehistoric gender roles, as the profession was previously thought to be carried out exclusively by men. This evidence suggests that the drive to create and wear adornment is as old as humanity itself, serving as a fundamental expression of identity and status.
Gold And Power
The oldest gold in the world dates from 4,600 BC to 4,200 BC and was discovered at the Varna Necropolis near the Black Sea coast in Bulgaria, marking the beginning of a long history of gold as a symbol of power. In ancient Egypt, which flourished between 3,000 and 5,000 years ago, gold was preferred over other metals for its luxury, rarity, and workability. Egyptian jewellery symbolised political and religious power, and it was worn by the wealthy in life and placed among grave goods for the afterlife. The Egyptians used coloured glass, semi-precious gems, and imported materials like lapis lazuli and silver to create elaborate pieces. In Mesopotamia, by approximately 5,000 years ago, jewellery-making had become a significant craft in cities like Ur, where the Royal Cemetery yielded hundreds of burials containing gold, silver, and semi-precious stones. The most significant archaeological evidence comes from the tomb of Puabi, which contained gold crowns embellished with figurines, close-fitting collar necklaces, and jewel-headed pins. Assyrian men and women wore extensive amounts of jewellery, including amulets, ankle bracelets, and heavy multi-strand necklaces. The Romans, who conquered most of Europe, changed the landscape of jewellery by developing smaller, more refined designs. They used a diverse range of materials, including gold, bronze, bone, and glass beads, and imported Sri Lankan sapphires and Indian diamonds. Roman men often wore rings with engraved gems used to seal documents, a practice that continued into medieval times. The Romans also used jet, a fossilized wood from Northern England, to create carved pieces of jewellery. In the Middle Ages, the Celts and Merovingians produced jewellery that matched or exceeded the quality of the Byzantine Empire, with the Tara Brooch being a particularly striking example. The Torc, a neck ring, was common throughout Europe as a symbol of status and power. By the 8th century, jewelled weaponry was common for men, while other jewellery became the domain of women. The Byzantine Empire continued many Roman methods but placed more emphasis on stones and gems, using lightweight gold leaf rather than solid gold. The Eastern successor to the Roman Empire, Byzantium, also produced kolts, which decorated headbands, and used light-weight gold leaf rather than solid gold.
Common questions
When was the oldest known jewellery created and where was it found?
The oldest known jewellery was created over 100,000 years ago by hominin precursors living in Europe and North Africa. Archaeologists discovered perforated shell beads in the Bizmoune cave near Essaouira, Morocco, dating to approximately 142,000 years ago, and similar perforated beads from Neanderthals in the Cueva de los Avions in Spain dated to 115,000 years ago.
Where was the oldest gold in the world discovered and what is its date?
The oldest gold in the world dates from 4,600 BC to 4,200 BC and was discovered at the Varna Necropolis near the Black Sea coast in Bulgaria. This discovery marks the beginning of a long history of gold as a symbol of power in ancient civilizations.
Which country has the longest continuous legacy of jewellery making and when did it begin?
The Indian subcontinent boasts the longest continuous legacy of jewellery making, with a history spanning over 5,000 years. The Indus Valley civilisation, which flourished in what is now Pakistan and northern India, was one of the first to create gold earrings, necklaces, and metallic bangles by 1500 BC.
When was the Cheapside Hoard discovered and what items did it contain?
The Cheapside Hoard was a stock of a jeweller hidden in London during the Commonwealth period and not found again until 1912. It contained Colombian emerald, topaz, amazonite, spinel, iolite, and chrysoberyl from Sri Lanka, ruby from India, and Afghan lapis lazuli.
What is the current market value of the global jewellery industry and which region dominates it?
The global jewelry market size was valued at US$353.26 billion in 2023 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 4.7% from 2024 to 2030. The Asia Pacific region dominated the jewellery market with a market share of 39.28% in 2024.
The Indian subcontinent boasts the longest continuous legacy of jewellery making, with a history spanning over 5,000 years. The Indus Valley civilisation, which flourished in what is now Pakistan and northern India, was one of the first to create gold earrings, necklaces, and metallic bangles by 1500 BC. Before 2100 BC, the largest jewellery trade in the region was the bead trade, where beads were made from rough stones heated until they turned deep red, chipped to size, and bored with primitive drills. In India, gold and silver are considered sacred metals, with gold symbolizing the warm sun and silver suggesting the cool moon. Hindu tradition associates gold with immortality because it does not oxidize or corrode. The Maharaja of Patiala placed the largest ever single order to Cartier in 1925, commissioning the Patiala Necklace and other pieces worth millions. The Navaratna, or nine gems, is a powerful jewel frequently worn by a Maharaja, comprising diamond, pearl, ruby, sapphire, emerald, topaz, cat's eye, coral, and hyacinth. Each stone is associated with a celestial deity, representing the totality of the Hindu universe. India was the first country to mine diamonds, with some mines dating back to 296 BC. Indian kings used diamonds to acquire military equipment, finance wars, and even to murder representatives of dominating powers by lacing their food with crushed diamond. In China, jade was preferred over any other stone, and the Chinese revered it for its hardness, durability, and human-like qualities. The first jade pieces were very simple, but as time progressed, more complex designs evolved. Jade rings from between the 4th and 7th centuries BC show evidence of having been worked with a compound milling machine, hundreds of years before the first mention of such equipment in the west. In the Americas, the Andes is the origin of hot working metallurgy, and the region has the longest history of work in materials such as silver, platinum, and gold. The Moche culture flourished in goldwork, creating masterful examples of jewellery with inlays of turquoise, mother of pearl, and spondylus shell. The Aztecs used gold to show rank and power, with the Emperor and High Priests being nearly completely covered in jewellery during public appearances. The Maya used local materials such as jade, pearls, and seashell, while also incorporating imported materials like obsidian and turquoise. The Spanish colonisers were spurred to search for gold on the American mainland after coming into contact with Caribbean natives that had gold jewellery obtained through trade with the mainland, leading to expeditions of the mythological El Dorado.
The Modern Shift
The Renaissance and the Age of Exploration had significant impacts on the development of jewellery in Europe. By the 17th century, increasing exploration and trade led to increased availability of a wide variety of gemstones. The Cheapside Hoard, a stock of a jeweller hidden in London during the Commonwealth period and not found again until 1912, contained Colombian emerald, topaz, amazonite, spinel, iolite, and chrysoberyl from Sri Lanka, ruby from India, and Afghan lapis lazuli. Jean-Baptiste Tavernier brought the precursor stone of the Hope Diamond to France in the 1660s. When Napoleon Bonaparte was crowned as Emperor of the French in 1804, he revived the style and grandeur of jewellery and fashion in France. Under Napoleon's rule, jewellers introduced parures, suites of matching jewellery, such as a diamond tiara, diamond earrings, and a diamond necklace. The period also saw the early stages of costume jewellery, with fish scale covered glass beads in place of pearls. In the late 18th century, Romanticism had a profound impact on the development of western jewellery, with the public's fascination with the treasures being discovered through the birth of modern archaeology. Mourning jewellery originated in England, where Queen Victoria was often seen wearing jet jewellery after the death of Prince Albert. In the United States, the period saw the founding in 1837 of Tiffany & Co. by Charles Lewis Tiffany, which put the United States on the world map in terms of jewellery. In France, Pierre Cartier founded Cartier SA in 1847, while 1884 saw the founding of Bulgari in Italy. The modern production studio had been born and was a step away from the former dominance of individual craftsmen. The grand finalé of this era were the masterful creations of the Russian artist Peter Carl Fabergé, working for the Imperial Russian court, whose Fabergé eggs and jewellery pieces are still considered as the epitome of the goldsmith's art. In the 1890s, jewellers began to explore the potential of the growing Art Nouveau style, with René Lalique recognized as a leading figure. The style moved the focus of the jeweller's art from the setting of stones to the artistic design of the piece itself. The end of World War I led to a more sober style, and the Art Deco period, covering the 1920s and 1930s, saw simpler forms combined with more effective manufacturing for mass production. Modern materials were also introduced, including plastics and aluminium, and the chromed pendants of Russian-born Bauhaus master Naum Slutzky. Technical mastery became as valued as the material itself, with the reinvention of granulation by the German Elizabeth Treskow.
Body And Belief
Jewellery has been used to denote status, with sumptuary laws in ancient Rome dictating who could wear what type of adornment based on the rank of the citizens. In the 19th century, the wearing of earrings by Western men was considered effeminate, and the display of body piercings has become a mark of acceptance or seen as a badge of courage within some groups but is completely rejected in others. Hip hop culture has popularised the slang term bling-bling, which refers to the ostentatious display of jewellery by men or women. Conversely, the industry in the early 20th century launched a campaign to popularise wedding rings for men, which caught on, as well as engagement rings for men, which did not. Islam considers the wearing of gold by men as Haraam, and the majority of Islamic jewellery was in the form of bridal dowries, which were not handed down from generation to generation but were sold at the souk and recycled or sold to passers-by. In the Americas, Native American jewellery reflects the cultural diversity and history of its makers, with adornment becoming an important element of communication in the absence of written languages. The Haida Nation of the Pacific Northwest used copper to create bracelets, while the Māori of New Zealand traditionally had a strong culture of personal adornment, most famously the hei-tiki, carved from bone, nephrite, or bowenite. Padaung women in Myanmar place large golden rings around their necks, and from as early as five years old, girls are introduced to their first neck ring. Over the years, more rings are added, and at their extent, some necks modified like this can reach long lengths. The practice has health impacts and has in recent years declined from cultural norm to tourist curiosity. Tribes related to the Padaung, as well as other cultures throughout the world, use jewellery to stretch their earlobes or enlarge ear piercings. In the Americas, labrets have been worn since before first contact by Innu and First Nations peoples of the northwest coast. Lip plates have been worn by the African Mursi and Sara people, as well as some South American peoples. In the late twentieth century, the influence of modern primitivism led to many of these practices being incorporated into western subcultures. Many of these practices rely on a combination of body modification and decorative objects, thus keeping the distinction between these two types of decoration blurred. In many cultures, jewellery is used as a temporary body modifier, with hooks or other objects being placed into the recipient's skin. Although this procedure is often carried out by tribal or semi-tribal groups, often acting under a trance during religious ceremonies, this practice has seeped into western culture. Many extreme-jewellery shops now cater to people wanting large hooks or spikes set into their skin. Most often, these hooks are used in conjunction with pulleys to hoist the recipient into the air. This practice is said to give an erotic feeling to the person, and some couples have even performed their marriage ceremony whilst being suspended by hooks.
The Global Market
The Asia Pacific region dominated the jewellery market with a market share of 39.28% in 2024. The global jewelry market size was valued at US$353.26 billion in 2023 and is expected to grow at a compound annual growth rate of 4.7% from 2024 to 2030. As of 2022, the global jewellery market was valued at approximately $270 billion and is projected to grow to over $330 billion by 2026. In 2022, the leading countries in the jewellery and watch market revenue were China, India, and the United States. The global jewellery market was valued at US$278.5 billion in 2018. India remains the largest consumer of gold globally, with gold demand rising by 11% year-on-year to 760.40 tonnes in 2018. Australia is now the number one supplier of opals in the world, and Australian opals are only mined in a few select places around the country, making it one of the most profitable stones in the Pacific. The advent of new materials, such as plastics, Precious Metal Clay, and colouring techniques, has led to increased variety in styles. Other advances, such as the development of improved pearl harvesting by people such as Mikimoto Kōkichi and the development of improved quality synthetic gemstones such as moissanite, has placed jewellery within the economic grasp of a much larger segment of the population. The late 20th century saw the blending of European design with oriental techniques such as Mokume-gane. Innovations in the decades straddling the year 2000 include hydraulic die forming, anti-clastic raising, fold-forming, reactive metal anodising, shell forms, and the use of CAD/CAM. 3D printing as a production technique gains more and more importance, with shapes that are hard or impossible to create by hand often being realised by this method. Popular materials to print include polyamide, steel, and wax. Every printable material has its very own constraints that have to be considered while designing the piece of jewellery using 3D modelling software. Artisan jewellery continues to grow as both a hobby and a profession, with more than 17 United States periodicals about beading alone. Resources, accessibility, and a low initial cost of entry continue to expand production of hand-made adornments. Some fine examples of artisan jewellery can be seen at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. The increase in numbers of students choosing to study jewellery design and production in Australia has grown in the past 20 years, and Australia now has a thriving contemporary jewellery community. Many of these jewellers have embraced modern materials and techniques, as well as incorporating traditional workmanship. More expansive use of metal to adorn the wearer, where the piece is larger and more elaborate than what would normally be considered jewellery, has come to be referred to by designers and fashion writers as metal couture.