A Roman mosaic from the Villa Romana del Casale in Sicily depicts a banquet during a hunting trip, showing how food and culture were intertwined as early as the 4th century BC. The first known Italian food writer was Archestratus, a Greek Sicilian from Syracuse who wrote a poem in the 4th century BC emphasizing top quality and seasonal ingredients. He argued that flavors should not be masked by spices or herbs, placing importance on simple preparation of fish. By the time Apicius published his cookbook in the 1st century AD, the culinary landscape had shifted to include heavy use of spices and over 470 recipes. Romans employed Greek bakers to produce breads and imported cheeses from Sicily, which held a reputation for excellence. They reared goats for butchering and grew artichokes and leeks within their territories. Some foods considered traditional today arrived from foreign countries during this era, including jujube, cherries, apricots, and peaches.
Medieval Shifts And Regional Beginnings
Arabs conquered Sicily in the 9th century, introducing spinach, almonds, rice, citrus fruits, pistachios, sugarcane, and durum wheat used to make pasta. A Norman king surveyed Sicily in the 12th century and observed people making long strings of flour and water called atriya, which eventually became spaghetti in southern Italy. The oldest restaurant in Italy is Antica trattoria Bagutto in Milan, existing since at least 1284. In Naples, the oldest Italian book on cuisine appeared in the 13th century with dishes like Roman-style cabbage and bean preparations from Treviso. Bartolomeo Platina printed a book in Venice in 1475 that included recipes by Maestro Martino, who was chef to the Patriarch of Aquileia. Martino described macaroni cooked in capon stock flavored with saffron, showing Persian influences while avoiding excessive spices. His text listed ingredients from across Italy, such as perch from Lake Maggiore, sardines from Lake Garda, and olives from Bologna. These regional distinctions began forming after the fall of the Roman Empire when cities developed their own traditions based on local climate and proximity to the sea.