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— CH. 1 · MOUNTAINS AND GORGES —

Crete

~5 min read · Ch. 1 of 7
7 sections
  • Crete spans 260 kilometers from west to east but narrows to just half a degree of latitude. A high mountain range crosses the island, forming six distinct groups including the White Mountains known as Lefka Ori. These mountains contain 30 summits exceeding 1,500 meters in altitude. The Samaria Gorge stands as a World Biosphere Reserve within this rugged terrain. Mount Ida serves as the highest point on the island and is traditionally linked to the birthplace of Zeus. Snowfall occurs regularly between November and April across these peaks while remaining rare in low-lying areas. Residents of Sfakia in western Crete view the arid rockiness of their home as an element of pride. They contrast their harsh landscape with the alleged soft-soiled mountains found elsewhere in Greece or the world.

  • The Minoan civilization thrived as Europe's first advanced culture from 2700 BC until 1420 BC. Its economy benefited from a vast network of trade extending around much of the Mediterranean Sea. Cultural influence reached Cyprus, Canaan, and Egypt during this Bronze Age period. Massive building complexes like the palace at Knossos defined the era. Linear A writing systems existed alongside later Linear B archives dated approximately 1425, 1375 BC. Michael Ventris identified the oldest samples of writing in the Greek language within these archives. Archaeological remains suggest prosperity and increased connectivity with other parts of the Roman Empire followed later conquests. At least three cities including Lyttos, Gortyn, and Hierapytna joined the Panhellenion league founded by Emperor Hadrian in the second century AD.

  • Crete was captured by Andalusian Muwallads led by Abu Hafs in the 820s after nine centuries of Roman rule. The Byzantines launched campaigns that took most of the island back in 842 and 843 under Theoktistos but failed to hold it permanently. Nikephoros Phokas restored Crete to the Byzantine Empire in 960, 61 after a century and a half of Arab control. Venice secured Crete as a colony in 1212 following the Fourth Crusade seizure of Constantinople. Ottoman forces conquered the island in 1669 after the Siege of Candia which lasted from 1648 to 1669. Many Greek Cretans fled to other regions of the Republic of Venice after the Ottoman-Venetian Wars. In 1830 as much as 45% of the population may have been Muslim according to contemporary estimates. The Great Powers granted autonomy to the island in March 1898 with reluctant consent from the Sultan.

  • The Cretan Revolt of 1866, 1869 or Great Cretan Revolution marked a three-year uprising against Ottoman rule. A particular event causing strong reactions among liberal circles was the Holocaust of Arkadi occurring in November 1866. Over 700 women and children took refuge in the monastery alongside 259 defenders before blowing up barrels of gunpowder rather than surrendering. The Great Powers sent troops in February 1897 to restore order after repeated uprisings. Candia massacre left over 500 Cretan Christians and 14 British servicemen dead at the hands of Muslim irregulars in September 1898. Prince George of Greece arrived to take up his post as High Commissioner in December 1898. Cretan deputies unilaterally declared union with Greece in 1908 taking advantage of domestic turmoil in Turkey. International recognition came on the 1st of December 1913 when Crete became part of Greece.

  • The Battle of Crete occurred in May 1941 during World War II leaving more than 11,000 soldiers and civilians killed or wounded. German paratroopers landed during an initial 11-day battle that proved bloody for both sides. Adolf Hitler forbade further large-scale partrooper operations for the rest of the war due to heavy casualties suffered by the invasion force. German firing squads routinely executed male civilians in reprisal for the death of German soldiers. Massacres took place at Kondomari and Viannos where civilians were rounded up randomly in local villages. Two German generals were later tried and executed for their roles in killing 3,000 of the island's inhabitants. Generalmajor Hans-Georg Benthack surrendered remaining Germans at Knossos to British Major-General Colin Callander on the 20th of May 1945 refusing to surrender to the Greek army.

  • In 2023 Crete welcomed 6.3 million visitors who stayed on average 5.4 days on the island. This reflects significant overtourism pressure on coastal infrastructure with 15% of all arrivals coming through Heraklion port and airport. The number of hotel beds increased by 53% between 1986 and 1991. Tourism became a largely positive force from 1960 to 1970 pushing modern developments like running water onto rural countryside. Tourist companies became more pushy regarding deforestation and pollution beginning in the second period leading up to the present day. Crete is one of the few Greek islands that can support itself without a tourism industry despite its current reliance on services. The region had a GDP of €9.4 billion in 2018 accounting for 5.1% of Greek economic output. Unemployment sits at approximately 4% which is one-sixth of the country overall rate.

  • Crete hosts many clues to species evolution due to isolation from mainland Europe Asia and Africa. No animals dangerous to humans exist on the island contrary to other parts of Greece. The vulnerable kri-kri Capra aegagrus cretica can be seen in the national park of Samaria Gorge. The Cretan shrew is considered endemic because this species is unknown elsewhere. It is a relic species of Crocidura shrews with fossils dated to the Pleistocene era found only in highlands. More than 200 species of wild orchid grow on the island including 14 varieties of Ophrys cretica. Rare herbs include the endemic Cretan dittany and ironwort known as malotira. The largest natural palm forest in Europe exists at Vai while Chrysi holds the largest naturally-grown Juniperus macrocarpa forest in Europe.

Common questions

What is the largest Greek island and how large is it?

Crete spans 260 kilometers from west to east but narrows to just half a degree of latitude. It contains six distinct mountain groups including the White Mountains known as Lefka Ori with 30 summits exceeding 1,500 meters in altitude.

When did the Minoan civilization exist on Crete and what was its capital?

The Minoan civilization thrived as Europe's first advanced culture from 2700 BC until 1420 BC. Massive building complexes like the palace at Knossos defined the era alongside Linear A writing systems and later Linear B archives dated approximately 1425 and 1375 BC.

Who conquered Crete in 1669 after the Siege of Candia?

Ottoman forces conquered the island in 1669 after the Siege of Candia which lasted from 1648 to 1669. Many Greek Cretans fled to other regions of the Republic of Venice after the Ottoman-Venetian Wars while the population included up to 45% Muslims in 1830.

What happened during the Battle of Crete in May 1941?

The Battle of Crete occurred in May 1941 during World War II leaving more than 11,000 soldiers and civilians killed or wounded. German paratroopers landed during an initial 11-day battle that proved bloody for both sides before Generalmajor Hans-Georg Benthack surrendered remaining Germans at Knossos on the 20th of May 1945.

How many visitors did Crete welcome in 2023 and what was their average stay duration?

In 2023 Crete welcomed 6.3 million visitors who stayed on average 5.4 days on the island. This reflects significant overtourism pressure on coastal infrastructure with 15% of all arrivals coming through Heraklion port and airport.

All sources

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