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— CH. 1 · INTRODUCTION —

Cooking

9 min listen · Ch. 1 of 8
8 sections
  • Cooking is the only activity of its kind that belongs to humans alone. No other animal prepares its food with heat or fire. Archaeological evidence of cooking fires reaches back at least 300,000 years, yet some researchers push the origins of human cooking to as early as 2 million years ago. Defined as the art, science, and craft of using heat to make food more palatable, digestible, nutritious, or safe, cooking appears in every human society. Anthropologists treat it as a cultural universal. From grilling over an open fire to baking in ovens to boiling in water, its techniques reflect local conditions and traditions. But how did a species learn to harness fire for its meals, and what does that change inside the food itself? What turns raw matter into something safer, tastier, and easier to absorb? And why does the same heat that protects us also carry its own quiet dangers?

  • Phylogenetic analysis suggests early hominids may have adopted cooking 1 to 2 million years ago. Burnt bone fragments and plant ashes from the Wonderwerk Cave in South Africa point to control of fire by early humans 1 million years ago. In his work Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human, Richard Wrangham argued that bipedalism and a large cranial capacity meant early Homo habilis regularly cooked food. Unequivocal evidence in the archaeological record for the controlled use of fire begins at 400,000 BCE, well after species like Homo erectus are thought to have lived. The oldest evidence of controlled fire used to cook, drawn from heated fish teeth in a deep cave, was dated to about 780,000 years ago. Across Europe and the Middle East, remains from 300,000 years ago survive as ancient hearths, earth ovens, burnt animal bones, and flint. Anthropologists think widespread cooking fires began about 250,000 years ago, when hearths first appeared. The earliest hearths reported so far are at least 790,000 years old.

  • Communication between the Old World and the New World in the Columbian Exchange reshaped what cooks everywhere could put in a pot. From the New World came potatoes, tomatoes, maize, beans, bell pepper, chili pepper, vanilla, pumpkin, cassava, avocado, peanut, pecan, cashew, pineapple, blueberry, sunflower, chocolate, gourds, green beans, and squash. Their arrival had a profound effect on Old World cooking. Moving the other way across the Atlantic were cattle, sheep, pigs, wheat, oats, barley, rice, apples, pears, peas, chickpeas, mustard, and carrots, which changed New World cooking just as deeply. The expansion of agriculture, commerce, trade, and transportation between regions kept handing cooks new ingredients. New inventions added new methods too, including the invention of pottery for holding and boiling water. Each exchange widened the range of techniques a kitchen could draw on.

  • In the 17th and 18th centuries, food served as a classic marker of identity in Europe. By the 19th-century "Age of Nationalism", cuisine had become a defining symbol of national identity. Ilaria Porciani notes that industrial food manufacturing, including McDonald's and other fast-food places, created a desire for authentic cuisine. She argues that food becomes entangled with nostalgia and is imagined in terms of authenticity and tradition, representing continuity with past generations. In this way, food undergoes what she calls heritagization. National intellectuals and folklorists shaped the process by researching national traditions and fostering a sense of unity. Governments, public institutions, cooks, and gourmets joined what amounts to an informal contract to build a culinary identity for the nation. The Industrial Revolution brought mass production, mass marketing, and standardization of food. Factories processed, preserved, canned, and packaged a wide variety of foods, and processed cereals quickly became a defining feature of the American breakfast. In the 1920s, freezing methods, cafeterias, and fast food restaurants emerged.

  • Most ingredients in cooking come from living organisms, carrying proteins, carbohydrates, and fats, along with water and minerals. Carbohydrates include sucrose, the table sugar that is a disaccharide, plus simple sugars like glucose and fructose, and starches from cereal flour, rice, arrowroot, and potato. When sugars are heated until all water of crystallisation is driven off, caramelization begins, producing carbon and the breakdown products that make caramel. Heating sugars and proteins together causes the Maillard reaction, a basic flavor-enhancing technique. Fats behave differently under heat than the sugars beside them in the pantry. They can reach temperatures above the boiling point of water, which makes them useful for transferring high heat in frying, deep-frying, or sautéing. In European cooking, a mixture of butter and flour called a roux thickens stews and sauces, while Asian cooking gets a similar effect from rice or corn starch and water. Proteins tell their own story under heat. When heated, they denature and change texture, so meat becomes more friable and less flexible. Egg whites do the opposite, coagulating into a rigid yet flexible matrix that underpins meringue and many desserts.

  • Most methods of cooking have been known since antiquity, including baking, roasting, frying, grilling, barbecuing, smoking, boiling, steaming, and braising. A more recent innovation is microwaving, which sits apart from the older family of techniques. Steaming works by continuously boiling water, which vaporizes into steam that then transfers heat to the food. Many consider it a healthy form of cooking, as it helps retain nutrients in vegetables or meat. In the en papillote method, food is placed in a pouch and baked, allowing its own moisture to steam it. Smoking flavors, cooks, or preserves food by exposing it to smoke from burning or smoldering material, most often wood. Sous vide takes a slower path entirely. The food is placed into a plastic pouch or glass jar, sealed often in a vacuum, then cooked in a water bath at precise temperatures for longer than normal times, sometimes up to days.

  • As of 2021, over 2.6 billion people cook with open fires or inefficient stoves burning kerosene, biomass, and coal. These practices produce high levels of household air pollution, causing 3.8 million premature deaths annually. Of those deaths, 27 percent come from pneumonia, 27 percent from ischaemic heart disease, 20 percent from chronic obstructive pulmonary disease, 18 percent from stroke, and 8 percent from lung cancer. Women and young children are disproportionately affected, since they spend the most time near the hearth. Inside the kitchen, the dangers are more immediate. About a third of the United States' estimated 400,000 annual knife injuries are kitchen-related, alongside the risks of burns, fires, and unseen slippery surfaces. Heat also protects, killing or inactivating bacteria, viruses, and parasites such as tapeworms and Toxoplasma gondii. Some spoilage bacteria, like Clostridium botulinum or Bacillus cereus, form spores that survive boiling, then germinate after the food cools, which makes it unsafe to reheat cooked food more than once. Kidney beans are toxic when raw or improperly cooked due to phytohaemagglutinin, inactivated only by cooking for at least ten minutes at 100 C.

  • Vitamin C is especially prone to oxidation during cooking and may be destroyed by protracted heat, leaching into the cooking water in vegetables and fruits. Peeling vegetables compounds the loss, especially in potatoes, where most of the vitamin C sits in the skin. The picture is not all loss. Research shows a greater proportion of carotenoids is absorbed from cooked vegetables than from raw ones, and cooking increases the bioavailability of thiamin, vitamin B6, niacin, and folate by freeing them from food microstructure. Heat can also create hazards inside the food itself. Several studies since 1990 indicate that cooking meat at high temperature creates heterocyclic amines, thought to increase cancer risk. Researchers at the National Cancer Institute found that people who ate beef rare or medium-rare had less than one-third the risk of stomach cancer of those who ate it medium-well or well-done. The Institute notes that cooking meat below 212 F creates "negligible amounts" of these compounds. Baking, grilling, or broiling starchy foods until a toasted crust forms generates significant acrylamide, a discovery in 2002 that led to international health concerns. Later research found it unlikely that acrylamides in burnt food cause cancer in humans, and Cancer Research UK calls the idea that burnt food causes cancer a "myth". The scientific study of all this carries its own name: molecular gastronomy, with contributions from figures such as the chemist Hervé This and the physicist Nicholas Kurti.

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Common questions

How old is the practice of cooking and when did humans first cook food?

Archaeological evidence of cooking fires dates to at least 300,000 years ago, though some estimates place the start of human cooking as early as 2 million years ago. The oldest evidence of controlled fire used to cook food, drawn from heated fish teeth in a deep cave, was dated to about 780,000 years ago.

What is cooking and why is it unique to humans?

Cooking is the art, science, and craft of using heat to make food more palatable, digestible, nutritious, or safe. Preparing food with heat or fire is an activity unique to humans and is found in all human societies as a cultural universal.

How did the Columbian Exchange change cooking?

The Columbian Exchange moved foods between the Old World and New World across the Atlantic, profoundly affecting cooking on both sides. New World foods like potatoes, tomatoes, maize, and chocolate reshaped Old World cooking, while Old World cattle, wheat, rice, and other foods changed New World cooking.

What are the main methods of cooking?

Most cooking methods have been known since antiquity, including baking, roasting, frying, grilling, barbecuing, smoking, boiling, steaming, and braising. More recent innovations include microwaving and sous vide, in which food is sealed and cooked in a precise-temperature water bath for longer than normal times.

Is cooking dangerous to health?

As of 2021, over 2.6 billion people cook with open fires or inefficient stoves, producing household air pollution that causes 3.8 million premature deaths annually. Cooking meat at high temperature can create heterocyclic amines thought to increase cancer risk, and people who ate beef rare or medium-rare had less than one-third the stomach cancer risk of those who ate it well-done.

Does cooking destroy nutrients in food?

Cooking can destroy some nutrients, with vitamin C especially prone to oxidation and loss into cooking water. However, cooking increases the bioavailability of thiamin, vitamin B6, niacin, and folate, and a greater proportion of carotenoids is absorbed from cooked vegetables than from raw ones.

What is molecular gastronomy in cooking?

Molecular gastronomy is the scientific study of cooking, a subdiscipline of food science concerned with the physical and chemical transformations that occur during cooking. Contributors include the chemist Hervé This and the physicist Nicholas Kurti.

All sources

72 references cited across the entry

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  2. 2BookCatching Fire: How cooking made us humanRichard Wrangham — 2009
  3. 3JournalA New Spin on CookingW. Wayt Gibbs et al. — 2011
  4. 4JournalPhylogenetic rate shifts in feeding time during the evolution of HomoChris Organ — 22 August 2011
  5. 5Quest for Fire Began Earlier Than ThoughtPringle, Heather — 2 April 2012
  6. 6BookWorlds Together, Worlds ApartElizabeth Pollard — Norton — 2015
  7. 10MagazineOldest Known Hearth Found in Israel CaveSmith, Roff — 29 January 2014
  8. 15JournalThe Columbian Exchange: A History of Disease, Food, and IdeasNathan Nunn et al. — 2010
  9. 17BookFood Heritage and Nationalism in EuropeIlaria Porciani — Routledge — 2019
  10. 20Nutritional and Toxicological Consequences of Food ProcessingRickard E. Öste — Springer US — 1991
  11. 24Macronutrients: the Importance of Carbohydrate, Protein, and FatUniversity of Illinois at Urbana–Champaign
  12. 26BookThe Role of Fats in Human DietThomas A. B. Sanders — Woodhead/Elsevier — 2016
  13. 27JournalSeaweed proteins are nutritionally valuable components in the human dietDaman Reynolds et al. — 2022-07-12
  14. 28Protein in dietUnited States National Library of Medicine, National Institutes of Health — 2009
  15. 31JournalA review on nutritional advantages of edible mushrooms and its industrialization development situation in protein meat analoguesMeiqi Wang et al. — 2023-03-01
  16. 33BookThe Future of Post-Human Culinary Art: Towards a New Theory of Ingredients and TechniquesPeter Baofu — Cambridge Scholars Publishing — 2013-01-03
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  18. 37JournalEffect of different cooking methods on the content of vitamins and true retention in selected vegetablesS. Lee et al. — 2017-10-12
  19. 38Cooking methodsHealth Canada — 2024-02-09
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  21. 47Grilling and Food SafetyUSDA — June 2017
  22. 48Basics for Handling Food SafelyUnited States Department of Agriculture
  23. 49Cutting Boards (Plastic Versus Wood)Cooperative Extension, College of Agriculture & Life Sciences, the University of Arizona — 1998
  24. 52JournalThermal Degradation of Sulforaphane in Aqueous SolutionY. Jin et al. — 1999
  25. 53JournalEvaluation of Different Cooking Conditions on Broccoli (Brassica oleracea var. italica) to Improve the Nutritional Value and Consumer Acceptance.R Bongoni et al. — 2014
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  29. 58Heterocyclic Amines in Cooked MeatsNational Cancer Institute — 2018
  30. 59JournalFormation and occurrence of nitrosamines in foodScanlan RA. — 1983
  31. 60Can eating burnt foods cause cancer?Cancer Research UK — 15 October 2021
  32. 61JournalAdvanced Glycation End Products and Risks for Chronic Diseases: Intervening Through Lifestyle ModificationChandan Prasad et al. — May 2017
  33. 62JournalAdvanced Glycation End Products in Foods and a Practical Guide to Their Reduction in the DietJaime Uribarri et al. — June 2010
  34. 64BookThe Harmony of Science and Food: Molecular GastronomyOzan Guler — Strategic Researchers Academy Publishing — 2019
  35. 66BookThe Science of CookingPeter Barham
  36. 67BookMen at Work: Labour, Maculinities, DevelopmentCecile Jackson — Routledge — 2013
  37. 68Nutritional Quality of Food Prepared at Home and Away From Home, 1977–2008Biing-Hwan Lin et al. — U.S. Department of Agriculture
  38. 69JournalImpact of cooking and home food preparation interventions among adults: outcomes and implications for future programsMarla Reicks et al. — 2014-08-01
  39. 70JournalBenefits and Barriers to Healthful Eating: What Are the Consequences of Decreased Food Preparation Ability?Lu Ann Laurice Soliah et al. — 2012-03-01
  40. 71JournalCooking frequency may enhance survival in Taiwanese elderlyRosalind Chia-Yu Chen et al. — 2012-07-01
  41. 72BookComfort Food: Meaning and MemoriesMichael Owen Jones et al. — Univ. Press of Mississippi — 2017