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— CH. 1 · FOUNDING AND GOLDEN AGE —

Baghdad

~8 min read · Ch. 1 of 6
6 sections
  • On the 30th of July 762, Caliph Al-Mansur commissioned the construction of a new city to serve as the capital of his Abbasid Empire. He chose a site on the banks of the Tigris river that had been populated for millennia before the Arab conquest of Mesopotamia in 637 CE. Two designers hired by Al-Mansur planned the layout: Naubakht, a Zoroastrian who determined an astrologically auspicious date under the sign of Leo, and Mashallah, a Jew from Khorasan, Iran. The resulting Round City featured two large semicircles surrounding a circular core with walls up to 44 meters thick and 30 meters high. It took four years to build between 764 and 768, involving over 100,000 workers who laid bricks measuring 18 inches square. Unlike European cities of the time designed as squares or rectangles, Baghdad's circular design reflected ancient Near Eastern urban planning similar to the Sasanian city of Gur. The city included parks, gardens, villas, promenades, fountains, public baths, and thousands of hammams enhancing hygiene. A canal supplied water for drinking and construction while marble steps led down to the river. The Golden Gate Palace stood at the center with a grand 48-meter green dome where only the caliph could approach on horseback. By the middle of the 9th century, Baghdad housed the largest selection of books in the world within its libraries. Estimates suggest the population peaked at more than one million inhabitants during this era. The House of Wisdom became one of the most well-known academies housing scholars like Hunayn ibn Ishaq, al-Khwarizmi, and Al-Kindi. This intellectual hub rivaled Chang'an as one of the largest cities globally until the 930s when it tied with Córdoba.

  • On the 10th of February 1258, Mongol forces led by Hulegu captured Baghdad after a siege that ruined many quarters through fire, siege, or looting. The Mongols massacred most of the city's inhabitants including Caliph Al-Musta'sim and destroyed large sections of the urban fabric. They also demolished the canals and dykes forming the city's irrigation system which had supported agriculture for centuries. During this period Christians and Shia were tolerated while Sunnis were treated as enemies. The sack of Baghdad put an end to the Abbasid Caliphate and marked what some argue was the final blow from which Islamic civilization never fully recovered. In August 1393, Timur occupied Baghdad having marched there in only eight days from Shiraz. Sultan Ahmad Jalayir fled to Syria where Mamluk Sultan Barquq protected him before killing Timur's envoys. Timur left Khwaja Mas'ud to govern but he was driven out when Ahmad returned. Baghdad was sacked again in 1401 when Timur ordered each soldier to bring back two severed human heads sparing almost no one. The city became a provincial capital controlled successively by the Mongol Jalayirid dynasty from 1400 to 1411, Turkic Kara Koyunlu from 1411 to 1469, Turkic Ak Koyunlu from 1469 to 1508, and Iranian Safavid rulers from 1508 to 1534. Between 1623 and 1638 it returned to Iranian rule before falling back into Ottoman hands. Plague and cholera visitations sometimes wiped out two-thirds of its population during these centuries of instability.

  • Baghdad remained under Ottoman rule until 1918 when British forces captured it during World War I. In 1920 a revolt erupted against new British policies beginning with mass demonstrations including protests by embittered officers from the old Ottoman Army. The British retaliated by air bombing across Baghdad killing thousands of residents. Under the Mandate of Mesopotamia Baghdad became the capital of a British-protected monarchy in 1921 and later the independent kingdom of Iraq in 1932. On the 1st of April 1941 members of the Golden Square led by Rashid Ali al-Gaylani staged a coup installing a pro-German government. Fearing advancement Gaylani fled and the mayor surrendered to British forces. During the ensuing power vacuum Jewish residents were attacked following rumors they had aided the British. Over 180 Jews were killed and 1,000 injured while 900 homes were destroyed in what became known as the Farhud. Between 1950 and 1951 Jews faced series of bombings attributed to Israel by Avi Shlaim. On the 14th of July 1958 Abdul-Karim Qasim's army seized control storming the radio station and Al-Rehab Palace. King Faisal II former Regent Abd al-Ilah and Prime Minister Nuri al-Said were brutally killed with their bodies dragged through streets. In 1960 Baghdad hosted an international conference founding OPEC with dignitaries from Iran Venezuela and Saudi Arabia. The Iran-Iraq War of the 1980s diverted money to military efforts leaving thousands of residents enduring devastation. Iran launched missiles hitting dangerously close to Al-Rashid Street and the Jewish Quarter damaging power plants and oil refineries. A nuclear reactor near Baghdad was destroyed in an Israeli airstrike. On the 13th of February 1991 an aerial bombing attack in Amiriya killed at least 408 civilians. Following the Gulf War ethnic Kurds and Shia Muslims led uprisings against the government resulting in clashes between Shia rebels and Republican Guard forces.

  • In 1948 approximately 150,000 Jews numbered constituting 33% of Baghdad's population before persecution forced most to flee Iraq. Even after 1948 up to 100,000 Jews remained which decreased over time. By 2003 only about 1,500 people lived in Baghdad though many resided in old Jewish quarters like Bataween and Shorja. Today an estimated 160 Jews live primarily in these historic areas out of spotlight. Before the war Baghdad was home to one of the world's most significant Jewish communities with over 60 synagogues cemeteries and shrines preserved until 2003. Christians in Baghdad are predominantly ethnic Assyrians and Armenians who began moving there by the mid-20th century from northern Iraq and Iran. The historic Assyrian Quarter of Dora boasted a population of 150,000 Assyrians in 2003 making up over 3% of the capital's Assyrian population then. As of the end of 2014 only 1,500 Assyrians remained in Dora and others in Karrada district due to kidnappings death threats vandalism and house burnings by insurgent groups. Before the Iraq War in 2003 approximately 300,000 to 800,000 Christians lived in Baghdad concentrated in neighborhoods like Karrada and al-Dora. After 2003 a large number were displaced while many fled to Baghdad after ISIS's takeover of Mosul leaving about 100,000 remaining today. Kurds numbered around 500,000 in 2003 but as of 2016 only 300,000 remained in Baghdad including about 150,000 Shi'a mostly of Luri origin. An estimated 60,000 Iraqi Turkmen live in Baghdad with significant populations in Adhamiyah and Ragheba Khatun neighborhoods. Armenians who once numbered 25,000 across Iraq are now primarily concentrated in Bab al-Sharqi area forming the largest community of their kind in Iraq.

  • Baghdad generates 40% of Iraq's GDP serving as the commercial and financial hub home to 22% of the population. It connects trade routes between Turkey Syria India and Southeast Asia hosting government institutions state enterprises key sources of employment. The public education system follows Ba'athist socialist ideologies for employment in the public sector though since 2003 the private sector hasn't grown sufficiently leading companies to hire mainly foreigners. NGOs are establishing incubation centers to address unemployment issues. Baghdad serves as headquarters for important companies like Iraq National Oil Company State Organization for Marketing of Oil and Iraqi Airways. Large insurance companies and banks such as Central Bank of Iraq Rafidain Bank and Rashid Bank operate here alongside regional headquarters for First Abu Dhabi Bank Fransabank and Saudi National Bank. Multinational corporations including Honeywell Shell General Electric SalamAir and Robert Bosch GmbH have established regional bases. The Iraq Stock Exchange was established in 1992 with most establishments located in Al-Rasheed Street Karrada and Mansour district. Religious tourism has grown since 2003 with sites like Al-Kadhimiya Mosque Abu Hanifa Mosque Mausoleum of Abdul-Qadir Gilani and Buratha Mosque attracting visitors from Iran Pakistan and India while non-religious tourists come from Turkey France and United States. Around one million people visit annually for religious purposes. Industrial areas extend from city center to suburbs producing processed foods beverages clothes footwear wood products furniture paper printed material bricks chemicals plastics electrical equipment metal and nonmetallic products. Bismayah southeast of Baghdad is home to world's largest precast factory. An oilfield located in eastern Baghdad exceeds initial estimates with northern extensions in Salah al-Din province and southern Wasit province. Dora Refinery produces over 100,000 barrels per day making it the third largest refinery in Iraq.

  • Al-Rasheed Street stands as one of the most significant landmarks in Baghdad serving as an artistic intellectual and cultural center for many residents. It included prominent theaters and nightclubs such as Crescent Theatre where Egyptian singer Umm Kulthum sang during her 1932 visit alongside Chakmakji Company recording music for various Arab singers. Mutanabbi Street near the old quarter functions as the historic center of Baghdadi book-selling filled with bookstores and outdoor stalls named after the 10th-century poet Al-Mutanabbi. Firdos Square hosts two of the best-known hotels Palestine Hotel and Sheraton Ishtar both tallest buildings in Baghdad before a statue of Saddam Hussein was pulled down by coalition forces during the 2003 invasion. Qushla developed during Ottoman era as military barracks now serves as leisure space where citizens read poetry in gazebos featuring iconic clock tower donated by George V. The National Museum of Iraq suffered looting during the invasion while thousands of ancient manuscripts were destroyed under Saddam's command at the National Library. Grand Festivities Square holds three important monuments commemorating Iraqi fallen soldiers: Al-Shaheed Monument opened in 1983 designed by Saman Kamal and Ismail Fatah Al Turk Victory Arch Unknown Soldier's Monument. Masjid Al-Kadhimain shrine contains tombs of seventh and ninth Twelver Shi'ite Imams Musa al-Kadhim and Muhammad at-Taqi attracting pilgrims from far away places. A'dhamiyyah area features mosque associated with Sunni Imam Abu Hanifa whose title means Great Imam. Historic Jewish quarters Bataween and Shorja contain numerous sites including Meir Taweig Synagogue only active synagogue of Iraq with large compound community center school library Daniel Market Souq Danial popular for fabrics shoes Great Synagogue restored as museum Al-Habibiyah Cemetery largest Jewish cemetery home to around 1,000 graves Tomb of Joshua now Muslim shrine Shaykh Yitzhak Tomb preserved until 2003. Baghdad Zoo once largest zoological park in Middle East lost 615 animals within eight days following 2003 invasion before conservationist Lawrence Anthony helped reopen facility.

Common questions

When was Baghdad founded and by whom?

Caliph Al-Mansur commissioned the construction of Baghdad on the 30th of July 762 to serve as the capital of his Abbasid Empire. The city took four years to build between 764 and 768 involving over 100,000 workers who laid bricks measuring 18 inches square.

What happened to Baghdad during the Mongol siege in 1258?

Mongol forces led by Hulegu captured Baghdad on the 10th of February 1258 after a siege that ruined many quarters through fire siege or looting. The Mongols massacred most of the city's inhabitants including Caliph Al-Musta'sim and destroyed large sections of the urban fabric while also demolishing the canals and dykes forming the city's irrigation system.

How did the Jewish population change in Baghdad from 1948 to 2003?

In 1948 approximately 150,000 Jews numbered constituting 33% of Baghdad's population before persecution forced most to flee Iraq. By 2003 only about 1,500 people lived in Baghdad though many resided in old Jewish quarters like Bataween and Shorja.

Which landmarks are located on Al-Rasheed Street in Baghdad?

Al-Rasheed Street stands as one of the most significant landmarks in Baghdad serving as an artistic intellectual and cultural center for many residents. It includes prominent theaters such as Crescent Theatre where Egyptian singer Umm Kulthum sang during her 1932 visit alongside Chakmakji Company recording music for various Arab singers.

What is the economic role of Baghdad today compared to other cities?

Baghdad generates 40% of Iraq's GDP serving as the commercial and financial hub home to 22% of the population. The city connects trade routes between Turkey Syria India and Southeast Asia hosting government institutions state enterprises key sources of employment and regional headquarters for major banks and corporations.

All sources

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